Bleeding Brakes

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  • Marc

    #1

    Bleeding Brakes

    I am attempting to bleed the brakes on my '72 with litle success. I cannot seem to get any pedal. Does anyone know the correct order for bleeding the brakes? I'm not sure if I sould start closest to, or farthest away from the master cylinder. Also, which bleeder screw on the rear calipers is done first? All of the calipers are new, so they are not the problem.
  • Bill Clupper

    #2
    Re: Bleeding Brakes

    I generally start with the caliper farthest away from the master cyl and the bleed screw the farthest away from the inlet then work backwards toward the master cylinder. it's a two man job, one to pump the prake pressure up while the other opens the bleader and drains the output of fluid into a container. attach a small hose to the end of the bleeder to control the fluid and let you run it into a container. Remember to have the 'inside" man ( or woman) keep pressure on the pedal until you have tightened the bleeder back up, then pump it up again and repeat until no more bubbles are seen. then move to the next bleeder and repeat the process

    Comment

    • Bill Clupper

      #3
      Re: Bleeding Brakes

      I generally start with the caliper farthest away from the master cyl and the bleed screw the farthest away from the inlet then work backwards toward the master cylinder. it's a two man job, one to pump the prake pressure up while the other opens the bleader and drains the output of fluid into a container. attach a small hose to the end of the bleeder to control the fluid and let you run it into a container. Remember to have the 'inside" man ( or woman) keep pressure on the pedal until you have tightened the bleeder back up, then pump it up again and repeat until no more bubbles are seen. then move to the next bleeder and repeat the process

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 42936

        #4
        Re: Bleeding Brakes

        Marc----

        65-82 Corvettes disc brakes can be VERY frustrating to bleed properly. I've found that the "gravity" method works best, but it's very slow. You also have to tap the calipers with a rubber or rawhide mallet when you bleed, regardless of method, in order to dislodge air bubbles which the fluid may be "going around".

        Also, be sure that you have the calipers installed properly. It is possible to reverse sides in the front and end up with bleeder valves on the bottom. You'll NEVER get them bled properly if this happens. And, the rear calipers have TWO bleeder screws each, one inboard and one outboard. Both MUST be bled.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Joe L.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • February 1, 1988
          • 42936

          #5
          Re: Bleeding Brakes

          Marc----

          65-82 Corvettes disc brakes can be VERY frustrating to bleed properly. I've found that the "gravity" method works best, but it's very slow. You also have to tap the calipers with a rubber or rawhide mallet when you bleed, regardless of method, in order to dislodge air bubbles which the fluid may be "going around".

          Also, be sure that you have the calipers installed properly. It is possible to reverse sides in the front and end up with bleeder valves on the bottom. You'll NEVER get them bled properly if this happens. And, the rear calipers have TWO bleeder screws each, one inboard and one outboard. Both MUST be bled.
          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

          Comment

          • GDaina

            #6
            Joe is right on the money..........

            the only way to bleed brakes, any brakes, PERIOD.

            Don't forget to attach a vacuum hose to the bleed screw and submerse the other end in a baby jar w/fluid. You can monitor the flow of fluid and air bubbles. To speed up the process, have someone pump the brakes to get the fluid moving, and then let the fluid flow via the gravity way. BTW, the the vacuum hose submersed in fluid will prevent any air to be sucked back in the system when you tighten the bleed screw.

            Comment

            • GDaina

              #7
              Joe is right on the money..........

              the only way to bleed brakes, any brakes, PERIOD.

              Don't forget to attach a vacuum hose to the bleed screw and submerse the other end in a baby jar w/fluid. You can monitor the flow of fluid and air bubbles. To speed up the process, have someone pump the brakes to get the fluid moving, and then let the fluid flow via the gravity way. BTW, the the vacuum hose submersed in fluid will prevent any air to be sucked back in the system when you tighten the bleed screw.

              Comment

              • John H.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • December 1, 1997
                • 16513

                #8
                Re: Bleeding Brakes

                If you can't find a "helper" to do the "inside the car" job, buy a "MityVac" with the brake-bleeding kit and you can do the whole job yourself - all you have to remember is to keep the master cylinder full as you go from wheel to wheel, and you reverse the normal sequence - start with the closest wheel instead of the farthest wheel. Never found a car I couldn't get a nice, high, hard pedal on with a MityVac.

                Comment

                • John H.
                  Beyond Control Poster
                  • December 1, 1997
                  • 16513

                  #9
                  Re: Bleeding Brakes

                  If you can't find a "helper" to do the "inside the car" job, buy a "MityVac" with the brake-bleeding kit and you can do the whole job yourself - all you have to remember is to keep the master cylinder full as you go from wheel to wheel, and you reverse the normal sequence - start with the closest wheel instead of the farthest wheel. Never found a car I couldn't get a nice, high, hard pedal on with a MityVac.

                  Comment

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