Working the bugs out!

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  • Joe Steck

    #1

    Working the bugs out!

    I have just got my 65 road worthy after a five year resto. Everything with the car seems great except! I am having some touble when coming to a stop. Sometime everything seems to run great maybe a little to high an idle 850-1000 rpm. This is a 327 (350hp) the spec does want it a little lower but I am trouble getting it there.

    Sometimes when stopping the engine just keeps losing the idle until she quits. When the car is shut down for the night I can smell gas fumes like it is flooded. I have been playing with the choke and due notice slight differences. Also when I shut the car down and try to restart it in a couple of minutes I have to crank the motor more than I believe necessary.

    Could this also be a timing problem? The spec calls for minus 10 degrees. I am currently at 6 to 8 with no more room to turn the distributer. Can I remove it and jump a tooth. If so do I go clockwise? One more note. I had the distributor rebuilt. Is it possible they used the wrong diaphram? If it soulds like I am confused and grabing for answers/help I am.

    Sounds like everyone had a great time at Hershey. Sorry I missed it. It's around the corner.

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • Joe Steck

    #2
    Re: Working the bugs out!

    Forgot to mention that this is a 600cfm Holley.

    Thanks

    Joe

    Comment

    • Dave Cote NCRS#38525

      #3
      Re: Working the bugs out!

      Joe,

      If the car has been sitting that long and the carb is not brand new, you may have a hung needle causing the bowl to overflow. You also may check your bowl adjustmet, if it is adjusted too high, you will get similar problems. The fact that you smell gas, it is dying out at idle, and it is tough to start when warm would lead me to check to needles and float levels first, before I look elsewhere. Good Luck

      Comment

      • Wayne P.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • September 1, 1975
        • 1025

        #4
        Re: Working the bugs out!

        Dave is right Holleys are known for these problems. I just had the metering area of the main body machined .030" just to get it flat where it would seal. It was leaking gas to the inside of the engine.

        Comment

        • Eugene B.
          Very Frequent User
          • June 1, 1988
          • 710

          #5
          Re: Working the bugs out!

          Joe,
          I don't think that timing is your problem, but you state that the timing is set at minus 10 degrees. I have some reasonable experience with small block Chevys and I have never heard of timing being set at minus 10 degrees.

          Good luck,
          Gene

          Comment

          • Joe Steck

            #6
            Re: Working the bugs out!

            Timing is around 6 to 8 before top dead center. Sorry for the confusion.

            So most people think that my problem is the carb. What procedure should I follow to get the best result. Is thier one correct way to perform these adjustments? Thanks again for the feedback.

            Joe

            Comment

            • Mike McKown

              #7
              Re: Working the bugs out!

              If your Holley was idle for five years, the metering block/main body gasket has probably shrunk and you are leaking gas through the gasket. Same symptoms as a warped meter block or main body. You can check this by pulling off the four bowl screws and see if the gasket conforms to the metering block. Almost guaranteed if your carb has the old brown cork gaskets. If your engine ran okay before, the block and body are probably not warped to the point of causing a problem.

              If your distributor hits the intake with only 6-8 degrees advance, it sounds like the distributor gear on the shaft is 180 degrees off. When you pull the distributor, see if the dimple on the drive gear is lined up close to the rotor tip. Your rebuilder could have installed it wrong. If it's okay, reset the distributor one tooth clockwise to the engine.

              Comment

              • Joe Steck

                #8
                Re: Working the bugs out!

                I should of mentioned that the carb was sent out for rebuild about 4 years ago. It then sat for the remainder 4 years inside until recently installed. Unfortunatley the rebuilder is no longer in service.

                I will also check for the dimple on the distributer. Thanks for the advice.

                I don't understand why the car will idle somewhat fine at a higer rpm. Then without reason just loose idle other times. If comming to a stop I push in the clutch and tap the pedel before comming to a complete stop it will idle but higher than normal.

                Anybody familar with Holley's live in SE PA. I would be more than happy to talk with you.

                Joe

                Comment

                • Dave Cote NCRS#38525

                  #9
                  Re: Working the bugs out!

                  Joe,

                  Could also be that your choke is hanging closed and when you "blip" the throttle it is hanging up on the fast idle cam. A sticking choke could also be the cause of the problems you are describing. When it dies, pop the hood, take off the air cleaner and check the position of the choke horn. If it is closed, or anything other than in a full vertical (open) position, you have found the culprit. If it is open, then I would look elsewhere at the needle/seat and the float level.

                  Comment

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