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I'm going to replace the valve springs in my '66 L36 after tracking down a persistant miss to two broken springs (#1 & #4 exhaust). Are L36 valve springs still available from GM? If so, do all the parts (locks, seals, springs, etc.) come together in kit form? Or do you have to purchase all the parts separately?
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Re: Calling Joe Lucia: L36 Valve Spring Availabili
Dan------
The original valve spring used for 1966 L-72s was GM #3859911. This spring was discontinued in Novemeber, 1970 and replaced by spring GM #3970627. The latter part remains available from GM for about 17 bucks, list.
The original spring was furnished as a spring with damper only. However, the 3970627 is furnished as a kit. It includes the spring with damper + the valve retainer with integral umbrella seal. As far as I know, it does not include the valve keys (locks). These are available seperately under GM #3947880.
A complete engine set(16) of the GM #3970627 valve sprink kits is available under GM #12371061 for about 250 bucks, list.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Calling Joe Lucia: L36 Valve Spring Availabili
Joe - are the L72 and L36 springs the same? I know the springs you reference are used for the mechanical cam...are they the same for the L36 hydraulic?...CraigComment
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Re: Calling Joe Lucia: L36 Valve Spring Availabili
Craig----
Yes, they are. The original springs were for all engines, too (except L-88).In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Calling Joe Lucia: L36 Valve Spring Availabili
Thx Joe!Comment
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As always, thanks Joe. *NM*
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Re: As always, thanks Joe.
dan can you descrtibe themiss for me?? i ahve amiss at speeds up to about 1,800 rpm. after that it disapears [or maybe i just don't notice it anymor]. i have a low engine speed miss. what did you have??
wernerComment
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Re: As always, thanks Joe.
Werner,
I was experiencing a low rpm miss. You could hear it stumble through the tail pipe at idle (more on the right bank than the left for some reason), and there was a noticable shimmy in the engine at about 1500 RPM that'd smooth-out as the R's increased. I did everything to track down the problem including wiring heat riser open, rebuilt the distributor 7 replace all components, bought new wires (3rd set), changed plugs, checked 4X for vacuum leaks, adjusted valves, tightened motor mounts, and used profanity liberally.
To tell if you have a broken spring (or two as in my case), pop the valve covers off and visually inspect each spring. The break may not be easy to spot at first, so make sure you look all the way around each of them. The breaks are fairly clean since it's spring steel. Look for uneven spacing between the coils, as the first tell-tale sign. Good luck!Comment
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Re: As always, thanks Joe.
dan thanks for the deatailed response. i suddenly have a really sick feeling about this whole thing, especially since seeing someone's reply that the real problem is trying to figurre out why a spring broke in the first place. well, it never ends with these cars, but you gotta love'em. thanks again.
wernerComment
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