C2 front control arm bushings

**Joe L.** · August 12, 2003, 08:27 PM

Re: C2 front control arm bushings

Gene-----

I think that you'll find quite a bit in the archives on this subject. Briefly, though, the spring removal is the most difficult part of the job. I've never had any luck, at all, with the J-6874 type tool. Others have used in successfully, though. I use a HIGH QUALITY internal spring compressor modified by replaceing one set of "hooks" with a thick steel plate. First, insert the upper hook with the rod attached through the lower a-arm shock hole and "grab" the uppermost coil that you can. Next, install the plate through the compressor center bolt and seat the plate on the lower a-arm. Then, install the nut. A big, thick flat washer + a roller thrust bearing between the nut and the plate will be very helpful.

Make sure that you safety chain the spring to something solid while you're doing the removal and installation.

Ball joints can be removed without damage if you use a press-type, screw-action remover tool. If you use a pickle fork, you'll almost always damage the boot and/or the stud.

**Mike M.** · August 12, 2003, 08:53 PM

Re: C2 front control arm bushings

Gene: joe's right in that chaining the spring to a non-movable part of the car is an important safty issue. Just the other nite i was walking thru my old garage(wife now claims it for her "stuff") and i looked up and say the hole in the drywall where a front spring lodged in the ceiling after bouncing off the concrete floor, within a foot or so of my lovely face. I didn't patch the drywall in order to remind myself of my carelesness. Someday i'm gonna write a book about my stupid moves in the past.mike

**Mike M.** · August 12, 2003, 08:55 PM

Re: C2 front control arm bushings

P.S.: maybe we could all post our corvette stupidities . I'll bet i'd be the top poster in that category. mike

**Richard W.** · August 12, 2003, 10:26 PM

Just did that...

last week as part of rebuilding the front end of my SWC.

As far as the coils, I used a really neat compressor with a safety chain from Autozone as part of their free tool loaner program. It used a piece that went over the top of the shock tower rather the "hooks" at the top (did use the hooks at the bottom). My car had shorter replacement springs so I had no problems getting them out or in.

I was also pleasently surprised how easy it was to get the old control arm bushings out with the use of an air chisel. Also, I did not need a press to push the new bushings in--I used a $5 3/4 socket, grease and a hammer.

All in all, the job went well. Feel free to e-mail me if I can be of any further help.

**Eugene B.** · August 13, 2003, 06:38 AM

Re: Just did that...

Guys,
Using a combination of Joe' and Richard's methods, what do you think of the idea of placing a long lenght of 5/8" all thread rod through the upper shock hole and through a plate on the bottom with the washer, bearing, and nut.

Once the ball joints are removed, just loosen the nut on the all thread and let the control arms separate. The all thread would contain the spring as an added safety feature. This seems too easy. I must be missing something!

Thanks for the tip on the free loaner tool, Rich.

Regards,
Gene

**Harmon C.** · August 13, 2003, 07:48 AM

Re: Just did that...

Gene I use the threaded rod in place of the shock and have never had a problem. I also use threaded rods as a safety in the lower A frame holes. When just changing springs you dont need to touch the ball joints with this method or you can remove them after the spring is out. Make no mistakes as springs are dangerous. Lyle

**Patrick H.** · August 13, 2003, 10:46 AM

Re: Just did that...

If you look on your receipt from Auto Zone, could you tell us what part number the spring compressor was?

Thanks,

Patrick

**Gary J.** · August 13, 2003, 12:50 PM

Re: Threaded rod...

If I was going the threaded rod route I would use a Grade 8 threaded rod.

Gary
NCRS# 3503

**Eugene B.** · August 13, 2003, 02:21 PM

Re: Threaded rod...

Gary,
Here is where my all-thread rod theory fall apart! Every piece of all-thread rod that I have purchased in no where near the toughness of grade 8. All-thread is very easy to bend and cuts easily with a hack saw. Think I'll use a real spring compressor (with safety chain) and be safe.

Thanks,
Gene

**Joe L.** · August 13, 2003, 07:08 PM

Re: Threaded rod...

Gene-----

YES! Hardware store variety all-thread rod is usaully just mild steel; not even SAE grade 5. I would always assume that any all-thread rod that I obtain is mild steel unless I KNEW FOR SURE that it was otherwise via factory labeling.

Also, most internal spring compressors use an Acme thread rod, NOT NC or NF. Acme thread works much better for a spring compressor.

**Richard W.** · August 14, 2003, 07:54 AM

Re: Just did that...

Patrick,

Sorry for the delay. I have been out of town and am just not checking the Board. I could not find the receipt.

At the risk of offending anyone, it is best described like the slightly bent cup of you know who's hand. The short part (like the heel of a hand) went over the top of the a-arm where the bolt is. The longer (finger like) went toward the lower part. The screw went through where the nail went on His hand.

The instructor at Bloominton Gold had a similiar thing. He took a normal compressor and replaced the top hooks with a grade 8 bolt and washers large enough to cover the hole in the shock tower.

Hope this helps.

Dick

**Christopher R.** · August 14, 2003, 08:00 AM

Re: Threaded rod...

I used 5/8" threaded rod when I did mine. Sure, it's mild steel. But it's 5/8" in diameter. All the force acting on it is trying to stretch it. None of the force is to the side, or twisting. (There's specific engineering terms for these forces. But I was a liberal arts major.) I double nutted it, and used iron pipe flanges for washers. Not an ME or a materials guy, but I would think you could pick up small buildings with 5/8" mild steel, if you tried to pick them straight up.

This is not to minimize the danger in coiled springs.

**Harmon C.** · August 14, 2003, 08:31 AM

Agree

Chris I have worked in the ceiling of factorys and seen 12" steel pipe supported every 20' with 1/2" threaded rod. Hooks on a tool are fine but make sure they stay hooked. I like to control the spring two ways for safety as most have said. Must be from all that safety training I had to attend. Lyle

**Joe L.** · August 14, 2003, 04:59 PM

Re: Threaded rod...

Chris-----

I think that the terms that you're looking for are "tensile strength" and "shear strength". Tensile strength is the strength of a material in tension or "pulling apart" mode. So, for instance, if you support a platform with a bolt (or all-thread rod), the bolt is loaded in tension.

Shear strength is the strength of a bolt in shear or a force perpendicular to the centerline of the bolt. A bolt does not "feel" shearing force if it is part of a system in which it is properly torqued.

In any event, the tensile strength (the important parameter in the case of a spring compressor) of a 5/8" mild steel all-thread rod is likely more than sufficient for dealing with compression of Corvette front springs. Would I use one? Not a chance. This operation is a dangerous one and using an internal spring compressor there is no back-up (except for the safety chain). I want absolutely everything going for me that I can get.

C2 front control arm bushings

C2 front control arm bushings

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