C2 U-JOINT Question - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2 U-JOINT Question

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  • Jim Markevitch

    C2 U-JOINT Question

  • Jim Markevitch

    #2
    Re: C2 U-JOINT Question

    I did mean C3 ......... it's early in the morning!

    Comment

    • Harmon C.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • August 31, 1994
      • 3228

      #3
      Re: C3 U-JOINT Question

      Jim All four rear joints are the same and if made by the same company should be the same number. They could have different styles Heavy Duty,Standard. If their is a gap(smaller round end)they are wrong. Lyle
      Lyle

      Comment

      • Eric Fairclough

        #4
        Re: C2 U-JOINT Question

        I have a 1972 454/400 and I just priced and part numbered my u-joints. I found out that there are 2 part #'s one for the drive shaft and the other for the half shafts. The drive shaft is a very common u-joint but the half shaft are more stubby and the end caps are definatly bigger in diameter then the drive shaft end caps. All four of my end cap half shafts are the same size. Make sure there is no gap when you have it bolted on to the yoke. If there is it might be the wrong size end cap. Thanks Eric

        Comment

        • Eric Fairclough

          #5
          Re: C2 U-JOINT Question

          Sorry for the caps. I did'nt notice that the caps were on.

          Comment

          • Craig S.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • June 30, 1997
            • 2471

            #6
            Re: C2 U-JOINT Question

            Jim - all 4 halfshaft U-joints are the same. The driveshaft joints are a different part and are smaller. Since you have a 454, I would seriously look for the units without the zerk fittings, since the grease hole drilling weakens the web and they can snap under BB torque (depending how you drive). GM's never had zerk fittings. Spicer and Neapco both have heavy duty units like this, the will cost you about 2X the zerk style. Joe Lucia had a great post on all the part numbers last year sometime, it would be in the archives. Also, use extreme care when installing the outboard flange that bolts to the axle in the trailing arm. It is extremely easy to warp these and ruin them, and they won't seat flat on the splined drive flange on the axle. Many newcomers wreck these by improper disassembly or assembly. Personally, I like to use an old axle splined flange to support the ujoint flange during this operation. I have done it carefully without, but it is easier with. A lot of machine shops may not exercise this care installing the joints....Craig

            Comment

            • Craig S.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 30, 1997
              • 2471

              #7
              Re: C2 U-JOINT Question

              Caps not on when I look Eric!

              Comment

              • Joe L.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • February 1, 1988
                • 43193

                #8
                Re: C2 U-JOINT Question

                Jim-----

                In this case it doesn't matter if the car is a C2 or a C3 (at least, a pre-1980 C3). The half shaft u-joints are the same for all 63-79 Corvettes---small block, big blocks, or medium blocks. Manual trans or automatic. Positraction or non-positraction. 2.73:1 rear ratio or 4.56:1 rear ratio.

                The driveshaft u-joints are the same for all 71-79 Corvettes, automatic or manual. These have a 4-5/16" finger diameter and 1-5/64" cap diameter.

                After 1979, things get complicated.
                In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                Comment

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