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I am about to purchase an open trailer for transporting vettes around and want to go cheap, but safe. I will never (most likely) own a trailer queen, so I am not going to spend the $$$ for an enclosed. I am seeing the open flatbeds everywhere from 1700 - 5000.
What do people recommend that have owned these? 16, 18 foot, which seem to be the std. size? I will most likley only use it twice a year.
Believe subject is TOTALLY appropriate to this forum! You won't like to hear my advice, but here goes.
Don't buy open trailer. Eventhough you say you'll not have TQ car, and will only use a few times/year, once you start dragging your Corvette(s) around you'll understand why you need an enclosed trailer.....
(1) How do you pull over and sleep at night knowing your baby is out
there saying 'take me' to passerbys? (2) Ditto for when you stop to gas and gotta duck inside to eat, go
potty, Etc.... (3) What if you encounter weather enroute? Hail storms are a lot of
'fun'.... (4) Open trailers are a dime a dozen and that's exactly what the
resale market is.... (5) Enclosed trailers are almost like money in the bank and you can
have your cake and eat it too IF you know how/when to shop.
The secret to #5 is to wait until the end of traditional race season and shop for a used closed hauler from a racer who's getting out or moving up (bigger rig, going to semi, Etc.). Another secret is a LOT of the cost in enclosed trailer is destination freight in (typically around $1/mile and most big names are in the 'RV belt' of northern Indiana/central Illinois). For new enclosed hauler, consider shopping around where you live, find a mfgr who's local, arrange to take factory delivery to cut-out the destination charges and their dealer markup then don't go overboard on 'extras' (flooring, side door, beavertail construction, interior lighting, vents, cabinets, Etc.).
Believe subject is TOTALLY appropriate to this forum! You won't like to hear my advice, but here goes.
Don't buy open trailer. Eventhough you say you'll not have TQ car, and will only use a few times/year, once you start dragging your Corvette(s) around you'll understand why you need an enclosed trailer.....
(1) How do you pull over and sleep at night knowing your baby is out
there saying 'take me' to passerbys? (2) Ditto for when you stop to gas and gotta duck inside to eat, go
potty, Etc.... (3) What if you encounter weather enroute? Hail storms are a lot of
'fun'.... (4) Open trailers are a dime a dozen and that's exactly what the
resale market is.... (5) Enclosed trailers are almost like money in the bank and you can
have your cake and eat it too IF you know how/when to shop.
The secret to #5 is to wait until the end of traditional race season and shop for a used closed hauler from a racer who's getting out or moving up (bigger rig, going to semi, Etc.). Another secret is a LOT of the cost in enclosed trailer is destination freight in (typically around $1/mile and most big names are in the 'RV belt' of northern Indiana/central Illinois). For new enclosed hauler, consider shopping around where you live, find a mfgr who's local, arrange to take factory delivery to cut-out the destination charges and their dealer markup then don't go overboard on 'extras' (flooring, side door, beavertail construction, interior lighting, vents, cabinets, Etc.).
I've had an "open" trailer for years. It's titled as a 16 footer...that's the bed length. It's actually about 22 feet long. Tows like a dream....looks rather shabby, as it sits out. One of the positives about an open trailer is that you don't need a massive tow vehicle. I've towed my Corvettes and many of my friend's Corvettes on it using a Jeep Cherokee with a straight six 200 horsepower motor. I've had no problems with this "rig", which weighs approximately 4,500 lbs. Here's a thought. I'll try to explain. The placement of the tandem axles will effect the placement of the car on the trailer....like balancing a "see-saw". The more that the wheels are centered along the length of the trailer bed, the further you can "pull" your car forward on the trailer. However, the further the tandem axles are back from the tow ball, the better the trailer will "track". It's a compromise. To achieve "balance" on my system, I cannot take advantage of the entire trailer bed length. I could use an "equalizer" hitch to overcome this, but that's another subject. You should be able to buy a nice used open trailer for about $1,500. Make sure you get electric brakes...absolutely essential. Chuck Gongloff
1963 Corvette Conv. 327/360 NCRS Top Flight
2006 Corvette Conv. Velocity Yellow NCRS Top Flight
1956 Chevy Sedan. 350/4 Speed Hot Rod
I've had an "open" trailer for years. It's titled as a 16 footer...that's the bed length. It's actually about 22 feet long. Tows like a dream....looks rather shabby, as it sits out. One of the positives about an open trailer is that you don't need a massive tow vehicle. I've towed my Corvettes and many of my friend's Corvettes on it using a Jeep Cherokee with a straight six 200 horsepower motor. I've had no problems with this "rig", which weighs approximately 4,500 lbs. Here's a thought. I'll try to explain. The placement of the tandem axles will effect the placement of the car on the trailer....like balancing a "see-saw". The more that the wheels are centered along the length of the trailer bed, the further you can "pull" your car forward on the trailer. However, the further the tandem axles are back from the tow ball, the better the trailer will "track". It's a compromise. To achieve "balance" on my system, I cannot take advantage of the entire trailer bed length. I could use an "equalizer" hitch to overcome this, but that's another subject. You should be able to buy a nice used open trailer for about $1,500. Make sure you get electric brakes...absolutely essential. Chuck Gongloff
1963 Corvette Conv. 327/360 NCRS Top Flight
2006 Corvette Conv. Velocity Yellow NCRS Top Flight
1956 Chevy Sedan. 350/4 Speed Hot Rod
John, I've been towing with an "open" trailer for years and love it. There are advantages for both. My trailer was bought new for $1,700.00 and used only two years. I was able to buy it for $1,000.00. When the inclement weather hits it is nicer to have an enclosed trailer, but they can be like towing a breadbox down the expressway. If you do not have a "serious" tow vehicle, open is the way to go. You did'nt say what year Corvette you have, but also look at the trailer fender height. I can pull any of my "sharks" on my trailer and get out of it. I know of some people that have to climb out of the door window because they cannot open the door once the car is on the trailer!!! Check carefully! Also I do drive my Corvettes, but wife packs 6 days worth of clothes(plus many other things) for a two to three day stay(no room for driver or passenger after car is packed!)
John, I've been towing with an "open" trailer for years and love it. There are advantages for both. My trailer was bought new for $1,700.00 and used only two years. I was able to buy it for $1,000.00. When the inclement weather hits it is nicer to have an enclosed trailer, but they can be like towing a breadbox down the expressway. If you do not have a "serious" tow vehicle, open is the way to go. You did'nt say what year Corvette you have, but also look at the trailer fender height. I can pull any of my "sharks" on my trailer and get out of it. I know of some people that have to climb out of the door window because they cannot open the door once the car is on the trailer!!! Check carefully! Also I do drive my Corvettes, but wife packs 6 days worth of clothes(plus many other things) for a two to three day stay(no room for driver or passenger after car is packed!)
Storing a trailer and a truck is tough in a residential area when you have a small lot and a couple of everyday drivers in addition to a Vette or two, not to mention the ongoing expense of the truck.
What does one need to tow a Corvette on an open trailer? Is a full-size station wagon or sedan sufficient, or do you need a Jeep or pickup or a van? If you try to rent a car trailer from Hertz, etc, they insist that you also rent a small moving van (truck with box, not passenger van) with it. Are there any legalities or rules of thumb, like "the trailer plus load have to weigh less than the tow vehicle"..... what are the "rules"?
Storing a trailer and a truck is tough in a residential area when you have a small lot and a couple of everyday drivers in addition to a Vette or two, not to mention the ongoing expense of the truck.
What does one need to tow a Corvette on an open trailer? Is a full-size station wagon or sedan sufficient, or do you need a Jeep or pickup or a van? If you try to rent a car trailer from Hertz, etc, they insist that you also rent a small moving van (truck with box, not passenger van) with it. Are there any legalities or rules of thumb, like "the trailer plus load have to weigh less than the tow vehicle"..... what are the "rules"?
Wayne, a passenger car with a full frame and a v-8 engine can easily tow a Corvette on an open trailer. I don't believe anybody makes a front-wheel drive pass car that will do the trick, but there are plenty of SUV-types that will fit the bill. Blazers, Yukon's & Suburban's all represent decent compromises. Yes there are some guidelines, try to stay at 35 lbs/hp or less for the loaded setup. The tow vehicle needs adequate brakes, and the trailer needs 4-wheel electric brakes HOOKED UP!. Generally, a platform hitch is advisable, keep 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer & load on the trailer tongue (Ball) and you can go just about anywhere. Don't forget HD cooling for the Engine and TRANS. YOu may not crest hills at blazing speeds, but a dual-purpose setup will get you there.
Wayne, a passenger car with a full frame and a v-8 engine can easily tow a Corvette on an open trailer. I don't believe anybody makes a front-wheel drive pass car that will do the trick, but there are plenty of SUV-types that will fit the bill. Blazers, Yukon's & Suburban's all represent decent compromises. Yes there are some guidelines, try to stay at 35 lbs/hp or less for the loaded setup. The tow vehicle needs adequate brakes, and the trailer needs 4-wheel electric brakes HOOKED UP!. Generally, a platform hitch is advisable, keep 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer & load on the trailer tongue (Ball) and you can go just about anywhere. Don't forget HD cooling for the Engine and TRANS. YOu may not crest hills at blazing speeds, but a dual-purpose setup will get you there.
After reading the answers to your posting, I believe that towing is a matter of experience and finance. I started in the 70's by towing my 58 from NC to Al. with a 1968 Nova 307 2 barrell and a powereglide. My trailer was one that was purchased at a dealer auction for $200, no springs and no brakes. It is a home made trailer assembled by a farmer who had a welder and some spare time in the winter. I have since towed the trailer and '58 with a Ford Taurus. Later I moved up to a 1979 Suburban and towed a BB 67 a/c car to Callaway Gardens for flight judging. Again, no problems. I have since moved to a crew cab one ton and an enclosed trailer of 18' with brakes. Much nicer set up, and the trailer acts like a garage when not being hauled around the country. There was a good article in the Restorer some time back about hauling that recommended a 3/4 ton minimum, I agree for safety's sake. It is your life and car on the line so do the best that is possible with your resources. Remember, you can pull with a Yugo but you may not be able to stop if needed.
After reading the answers to your posting, I believe that towing is a matter of experience and finance. I started in the 70's by towing my 58 from NC to Al. with a 1968 Nova 307 2 barrell and a powereglide. My trailer was one that was purchased at a dealer auction for $200, no springs and no brakes. It is a home made trailer assembled by a farmer who had a welder and some spare time in the winter. I have since towed the trailer and '58 with a Ford Taurus. Later I moved up to a 1979 Suburban and towed a BB 67 a/c car to Callaway Gardens for flight judging. Again, no problems. I have since moved to a crew cab one ton and an enclosed trailer of 18' with brakes. Much nicer set up, and the trailer acts like a garage when not being hauled around the country. There was a good article in the Restorer some time back about hauling that recommended a 3/4 ton minimum, I agree for safety's sake. It is your life and car on the line so do the best that is possible with your resources. Remember, you can pull with a Yugo but you may not be able to stop if needed.
I have seen some nice looking enclosed trailers that are not "full height". They seem to be about 5 ft box height, rather than 7 or eight. It seems that these would sure save some towing weight. Any ideas on the manufacturers of this style?
I have seen some nice looking enclosed trailers that are not "full height". They seem to be about 5 ft box height, rather than 7 or eight. It seems that these would sure save some towing weight. Any ideas on the manufacturers of this style?
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