How can I tell if I have the factory assembled power steering components. I found some stampings but none that make sense as of yet. My power steering cylinder chrome plated shaft needs to be rechromed. Who will rebuild my components? I don't want to do an exchange. Any Information appreciated!
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Re: power steering component I.D.?
Dick, if your PS cylinder is an original factory cylinder, there should be a faint three digit Julian calender date code stamped on one end. I can't remember for sure which end has the date code, but I believe it's on the end with the hose ports. See the TIM&JG for an explanation of the Julian dating system. Essentially its the day of the year the component was made; e.g. for a 70 Corvete, "174" = the 174th day of 1970, or June 23, 1970.
As far as rebuilding the cylinder, you can do it yourself if it's only the seals that are worn out. Rebuild kits are available, and you can probably still get the GM Parts kits. They may be available at your Chevy dealer; I would try them first. If the kit is discontinued, I believe you will still be able to easily find it NOS.
If you are sure the rod needs rechroming, then you are definitely needing professional help. Master Power brakes does a lot of brake restoration, but I don't know if they do the cylinders. You could contact Bair's; they used to do a lot of component restoration. There is also another outfit by an NCRS member that does the boosters, but I don't remember the name or if they do cylinders...try reading through the Driveline ads.
Frankly, as anal as I am about restoring my original parts, it would be very hard for me to justify having the cylinder rebuilt if the rod needs to be rechromed. The car would have to be a highly original, high optioned, Bowtie four-star winner for me to spend the bucks for that rebuild. I doubt that most judges even know that the cylinder is dated, and it's virtually certain that nobody will ever check your date code to see if it's original...JMHO. -
Re: power steering component I.D.?
The bag of tricks keeps getting lighter... In any event if the cylinder was indeed dated the point loss resulting from the dectectable inconsistency would have a minimal effect on a flight judged restored car. One fifth of the total allowable originality points for a missing date on a single component would not make much difference unless that component displays other significant detail distracting from its originality. Many restored cars have more serious issues to consider. The presumed lack of a assumed date would likely fall under the category of minutia proclaimed by judges to impress subjects with their knowledge. Owners don't seem to appreciate such pontification while under the gun. In a purely original star award circumstance it would be of more significant concern. The dollars vs points discussions come to mind.Comment
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Bag of Tricks??!!!
Nick, in flight judging, I have never seen a PS cylinder inspected for dates, nor judged for anything except configuration, such as hose routing, hose crimps and correct finishes, etc. It takes an experienced judge about a 1-3 second glance, and then you move on to the next item. So, in my opinion, the presence or lack of a PS date code has never had ANY effect on flight judging scores.
The reason for this is that the cylinder is too far under the car to inspect for a date code. The date code on my cylinder is almost impossible to see in direct sunlight when holding it in my hand because black paint on the cylinder tends to fill the stamped characters. I had to bead blast the cylinder to even see the stamp. Further, if you weren't familiar with the Julian date code format and could correlate it with your car's build date, you wouldn't have the foggiest idea of what you were looking at when it was readable.
I have no idea what is done on the lift in Bowtie judging, but I have never heard any 68-72 judge, Bowtie or otherwise, indicate any knowledge of a date code on the PS cylinder. Maybe I've just been insulated. If there has been much pontificating in this area, I haven't been present to hear it. Neither have I read any information on such a date code in any of the literature, including the TIM&JG. That's the way it is with this hobby; every day the knowledge base grows.
But, the date code on original PS cylinders is not assumed; it is there, and I have the cylinder to prove it. I am not trying to impress you with minutia...besides, all of this stuff is minutia to the uninformed and the disinterested. If we weren't interested in minutia, we wouldn't be on this website. :-)
But, getting back to my original recommendation, rechroming the rod will require the cylinder to completely disassembled, i.e. head to be separated from the cylinder (not something you can do at home) for replacement of the piston and rod, and probably big bucks. If you only need to replace the rod seals to keep the original cylinder, I would definitely do it, but I wouldn't spend a ton of money to completely restore an original cylinder on an average flight judged car simply because...no one knows the date code is there anyway.Comment
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Re: Bag of Tricks??!!!
My weak attempt at sarcastic humor is mis stated. I agree with you completely. To me it is all about discussing and validating the finer points of originality and condition. However, while involved in activities outside of NCRS, some of us have been chastised recently for being overly concerned in the pursuit of minutia. My comment was just venting some frustration in that regard.
As you advise, doing everything possible to restore the cylinder is the way to go. If the rod is damaged, getting a replacement may be all that is practical. I think the cylinder can be professionally rebuilt using the original core. If not, I'd keep the old one just in case dates on this item become a judging issue.Comment
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Re: Bag of Tricks??!!!
The only factory stamping on this power steering cylinder of mine is 329 4. Does this make any sense? The 4 does, only because my car was built in mid December 1964, early 1965. Body built E17. The stamping is on one of the flat sides of the 4 sided square head, where the rod exits cylinder.Any thoughts. Like I said, the rod's chrome is shot. Probably have to do an exchange on this one.ThanksComment
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Dating on the cylinder
Considering 329 4 may mean the 329th day of 1964, The cylinder was produced 76 days before the end of the year, 365. The location of the stamp makes sense. I would conclude that cylinder could be original to a 1964 car with an E17 body build. I would keep it and buy another outright if you want to replace it. Contact Bair's or Stainless Steel Brakes for expert advice regarding the rebuildability of the unit you now have. Hope we have helped you sort the choices out a bit.Comment
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Re: Dating on the cylinder, correction
duh.. I meant to say could be original to an early 1965 car built in December 1964.Comment
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