What is the best way to turn the engine over when pre-lubing before start up? I have heard that it is best to bring it up to pressure in 90 or 180-degree incriments starting at #1 TDC 2x around to wind up back at TDC. I do not want to strip out the thread on the crank nose. Any other options?
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Re: Pre-lube of engine
Summit and jeggs sell a screw-driver like tool that utilizes the teeth on the flywheel to turn the engine over. mike -
Leave the spark plugs out
You won't strip the crank threads unless they are ruined already. When new, these threads can take 100 ft-lbs. With the plugs out, your engine will turn over with less than 20 ft-lbs torque.
Stock mid-years don't give you the access needed to turn the flywheel manually. Well, unless you're content to do it a tooth or two at a time.
I think you're worried about a very minor point. Yes, you must turn the engine over if you want oil to flow through all the lifters. But how important is that if you soaked them in break-in lube before installation?Comment
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Re: Leave the spark plugs out
I'm slow - It's probably been a month since the top of the valve train was put together. I soaked and lubed everything when I put it together, but it's been sitting a while so I thought better safe than sorry.Comment
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Re: Leave the spark plugs out
if you have solid lifters you can fill them with oil from a squirt oil can before you put them in the block and this make a big difference with edge orifice lifters on how long it takes the oil to reach the rockers. using cam breakin compound on the rocker pivot balls is the best way to go on first startup. it may take 20# to turn over a short block but with the valve train hooked up it takes a little more than that.Comment
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Re: Leave the spark plugs out
I have hydraulic lifters. soaked them in oil for about 4 days before assembly. Wiped off outside and used prelube on the bottom survace (facing cam). I know chevy small blocks are pretty forgiving, but I don't want to mess this one up. I figure it takes 50 lbs of torque or so on the crank to turn it over fully assembled, no plugs, transmission in neutral.Comment
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Re: Leave the spark plugs out
with hydraluic lifters you should not fill them before installing because you may not be able to "preload" the lifter as the pushrod seat may not be able compressed the .020/.040 needed.Comment
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Different strokes, I guess.
If it took 50 ft-lbs to turn over my engine with the plugs out, I'd take it apart to find out what was wrong.
Clem, what kind of valve seat pressures do you run on the street?Comment
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Re: Different strokes, I guess.
SBC 110# BBC 130# with flat tappet depended on lift tried to stay around 300# over the nose. these are with roller rockers,with stamped steel i would drop down 20# on the seatComment
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Re: Pre-lube of engine
What we did with all the engines in the race car was to pre-lube with a distributor minus the gear and a bolt welded to the top for an electric drill. Run and show about 20 PSI on the gauge for several minutes.
Put the distributor back in, set the timing, leave ignition OFF (disconnect coil), and crank the engine over. It should also bring up about 20 PSI or so cranking. Crank it about 30 seconds to be sure oil pressure is everywhere, then hit the ignition so it would fire. Bring the RPM to 2500, adjust timing and carb, and let it run 20-30 minutes, depending on the cam maker's break-in recommendations.
Adjust any obviously loose rockers during the run, although usually they were ok if set right cold. At the end of 30 minutes, set the rockers.
Run another 30 minutes, with RPM varying. Dump the oil, cut open the filter, and see how it all looked. Fill with new oil, put on a new filter and go race.
Only lost three engines to possible oil-related failures.
The 427 lost rod #3 at 7000 RPM on NASCAR 2 at Daytona. Oil kept dipping each time coming out of the infield back onto the high bank. The 427 had about 10 hours of race time on it at this point (not continuous). Problem - insufficient supply for the cooler, Accusump, and all the lines. Solution - dry sump.
The 302 wiped the bottom end twice. The machinist kept insisting on .002 clearance until he bought the second bottom end. Then he put in my .004 clearance and then it lived fine at 9000 RPM.
I don't think yours will see this extreme duty and so the prelube I did should work fine for you.Comment
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Re: Pre-lube of engine
Not that it matters, but it was rod #2 in the 427.Comment
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Re: Pre-lube of engine
Thanks. This sounds like the way to go to me. Hopefully this coming weekend I will be able to put it to the test.
MarkComment
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