C2 - Heat Riser Valve - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2 - Heat Riser Valve

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  • Stephen P.
    Expired
    • September 30, 2002
    • 116

    C2 - Heat Riser Valve

    How much movement is there in in the heat riser valve? The counterweight on mine sits horizontal (when cold). I can only push it down about a half an inch. It doesn't go vertical. I saw in the archives that it should have 90 degrees of movement. Is that accurate?
  • Wayne P.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • August 31, 1975
    • 1025

    #2
    Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

    yes it should move 90' so that it is now vertical an offers minimum resistance.

    Comment

    • Mike M.
      NCRS Past President
      • May 31, 1974
      • 8365

      #3
      Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

      Take the heat riser off the car and using krol or wd-40 or some such lubricant,gently loosen up the pivot points with the heat riser in a vice and you manualy working the flap valve back and forth till you have about 90 degrees of movement. then go for it. good luck, mike

      Comment

      • Jack Layton

        #4
        Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

        Sometimes a heat riser valve which is "freely" moving on the work bench will become "cocked" or twisted upon installation and then "bind" so that it will no longer open 90 degrees after installation. The cure is to be sure that the valve is properly aligned as you tighten the nuts. BTW : Brass nuts if it is a non-judged car.

        Comment

        • Stephen P.
          Expired
          • September 30, 2002
          • 116

          #5
          Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

          Thanks for the advice. Since I've got to take it off anyway, I've ordered one of the spacer plates and plan to remove the heat riser valve since I don't need it for the carb I'm running now.

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 43193

            #6
            Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

            Steve----

            From a functional standpoint, you're better off in most situations without the valve or with the valve wired open. Even for judging, I'd go with a valve with the butterfly plate removed. These valves are the cause of the "early demise" of right side mufflers on C2 and C3 Corvettes.
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Chuck Swenson

              #7
              Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

              I've seen many rams horns with brass nuts. They are not correct for judging? If not, should they be locking nuts or lock washers w/ nuts? Why would brass nuts be better than stainless steel?

              Thanks, Chuck

              Comment

              • Jack Layton

                #8
                Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

                Brass nuts will not rust tight to the exhaust manifold studs. They are easy to remove with out damaging the threads. The factory used cheap regular steel nuts. That is why a lot of exhaust manifold studs are broken.

                Comment

                • Chuck Swenson

                  #9
                  Re: C2 - Heat Riser Valve

                  Thanks Jack! Hopefully the stainless steel w/ nuts will be fine. It will at least look original.

                  Comment

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