How are you getting that just welded look on your driveshafts? Carefully heating with a torch might work. Am I close? Are you then spraying with a flat clear? Thanks!
Driveshaft Finish
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Re: Driveshaft Finish
Dick-----
One way to get the "just welded" look on the driveshaft is to get the shaft "re-tubed". Many good driveline shops can do this for you. Then, you get the "just welded" look (because it is just-welded) PLUS you get a fresh, extruded tube. So, the whole thing can look just about like new. Maintaining the appearance is another matter. Regular applications of Pre-Lube 6 (or similar compounds, but I recommend Pre-Lube 6) will keep it fresh, but this is a big inconvenience, to say the least. A light coat of satin-finish clear will work, too, but might be "detectable".
While I've tried to answer your question, don't get the idea that I, personally, would do most of the above. I might use the satin-finish clear on a freshly restored driveshaft. The "re-tubing" for cosmetic purposes and regular Pre-Lube 6 applications? Forget it.
By the way, I don't think that you'll be able to replicate the "just welded" look on the yoke welds with a torch. At least, you won't be able to do it without compromising the strength of the welds. Forget that, too.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Driveshaft Finish
DO NOT heat a drive shaft. It is a sealed vessel, full of condensation which turns to steam when heated, and they have been known to explode. I saw one that had ripped open like a can of biscuits when the car burned. If you have to have the "look" just have a new tube installedDick Whittington- Top
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Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam
Dick,
If you opt for having your driveshaft re-tubed, another decision you'll face is whether to use tubing with a longitudinal weld seam or seamless (drawn over mandrel: DOM) tubing. Having cut my rusty original 66 drive shaft in half, I know for a fact it had a longitudinal weld, as did my 66 halfshafts. At some point in time, I assume GM switched to the stronger, but more expensive DOM tubing for driveshafts and halfshaft, but I don't know if or when this took place.
Gary- Top
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Re: Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam
Gents,
Please don't be offended by my comments, but I can't resist repling to this posting.
Isn't fabricating a new drive shaft (for cosmetic purposes only) a giant waste of time and money? It certainly is in my opinion. Even if you do, now you have another non-original part on your car.
I would gently clean the drive shaft within an inch of its life and give it a few coats of PreLube 6 and get on down the road to something more important.
Best regards,
Gene- Top
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Re: Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam
I was only curious to see what others are doing to their driveshafts. I saw on some cars at Bloomington,that fresh weld look and wondered how they did it. A machinist friend of mine said a person could carefully torch it. I have bead- blasted the surface rust and will spray a light coat of matte clear over the surface. I will look into this prelube 6. All your comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks! Dick- Top
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Gene; some parts are simply unrestoarable
Gene,
I don't think anyone seeing the rusty and pitted condition of my driveshaft, halfshafts and T-arms would have considered restoration as an option. Some 37 year-old parts, particular under-car parts that were not originally painted nor plated, are simply un-restorable, particularly for a car that was driven year round in Ohio for the first several years of its life. It was actually quick and convenient for me to work with a local driveshaft shop to have a new driveshaft made up. Not cheap, but not outrageous either. Much cheaper than a restored 66 power antenna...
Gary- Top
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Re: Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam
Dick,
I should have mentioned this in my first posting. Quanta has a cosmetic restoration service for driveshafts and half-shafts. Price to restore a driveshaft is $90.
You can check them out at www.QuantaProducts.com. They also sell PreLube 6.
Regards,
Gene- Top
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