Driveshaft Finish - NCRS Discussion Boards

Driveshaft Finish

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  • Dick G.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 31, 1988
    • 681

    Driveshaft Finish

    How are you getting that just welded look on your driveshafts? Carefully heating with a torch might work. Am I close? Are you then spraying with a flat clear? Thanks!
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43193

    #2
    Re: Driveshaft Finish

    Dick-----

    One way to get the "just welded" look on the driveshaft is to get the shaft "re-tubed". Many good driveline shops can do this for you. Then, you get the "just welded" look (because it is just-welded) PLUS you get a fresh, extruded tube. So, the whole thing can look just about like new. Maintaining the appearance is another matter. Regular applications of Pre-Lube 6 (or similar compounds, but I recommend Pre-Lube 6) will keep it fresh, but this is a big inconvenience, to say the least. A light coat of satin-finish clear will work, too, but might be "detectable".

    While I've tried to answer your question, don't get the idea that I, personally, would do most of the above. I might use the satin-finish clear on a freshly restored driveshaft. The "re-tubing" for cosmetic purposes and regular Pre-Lube 6 applications? Forget it.

    By the way, I don't think that you'll be able to replicate the "just welded" look on the yoke welds with a torch. At least, you won't be able to do it without compromising the strength of the welds. Forget that, too.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Terry M.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • September 30, 1980
      • 15573

      #3
      Re: Driveshaft Finish *TL*

      I do not recommend heating the joint between the tube and the yoke. There is a good chance of bending the assembly by doing that.




      Terry

      Comment

      • Dick W.
        Former NCRS Director Region IV
        • June 30, 1985
        • 10483

        #4
        Re: Driveshaft Finish

        DO NOT heat a drive shaft. It is a sealed vessel, full of condensation which turns to steam when heated, and they have been known to explode. I saw one that had ripped open like a can of biscuits when the car burned. If you have to have the "look" just have a new tube installed
        Dick Whittington

        Comment

        • Gary B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • February 1, 1997
          • 6979

          #5
          Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam

          Dick,

          If you opt for having your driveshaft re-tubed, another decision you'll face is whether to use tubing with a longitudinal weld seam or seamless (drawn over mandrel: DOM) tubing. Having cut my rusty original 66 drive shaft in half, I know for a fact it had a longitudinal weld, as did my 66 halfshafts. At some point in time, I assume GM switched to the stronger, but more expensive DOM tubing for driveshafts and halfshaft, but I don't know if or when this took place.

          Gary

          Comment

          • Eugene B.
            Very Frequent User
            • May 31, 1988
            • 710

            #6
            Re: Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam

            Gents,
            Please don't be offended by my comments, but I can't resist repling to this posting.

            Isn't fabricating a new drive shaft (for cosmetic purposes only) a giant waste of time and money? It certainly is in my opinion. Even if you do, now you have another non-original part on your car.

            I would gently clean the drive shaft within an inch of its life and give it a few coats of PreLube 6 and get on down the road to something more important.

            Best regards,
            Gene

            Comment

            • Dick G.
              Very Frequent User
              • May 31, 1988
              • 681

              #7
              Re: Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam

              I was only curious to see what others are doing to their driveshafts. I saw on some cars at Bloomington,that fresh weld look and wondered how they did it. A machinist friend of mine said a person could carefully torch it. I have bead- blasted the surface rust and will spray a light coat of matte clear over the surface. I will look into this prelube 6. All your comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks! Dick

              Comment

              • Gary B.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • February 1, 1997
                • 6979

                #8
                Gene; some parts are simply unrestoarable

                Gene,

                I don't think anyone seeing the rusty and pitted condition of my driveshaft, halfshafts and T-arms would have considered restoration as an option. Some 37 year-old parts, particular under-car parts that were not originally painted nor plated, are simply un-restorable, particularly for a car that was driven year round in Ohio for the first several years of its life. It was actually quick and convenient for me to work with a local driveshaft shop to have a new driveshaft made up. Not cheap, but not outrageous either. Much cheaper than a restored 66 power antenna...

                Gary

                Comment

                • Eugene B.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • May 31, 1988
                  • 710

                  #9
                  Re: Driveshaft finish; longitudinal weld seam

                  Dick,
                  I should have mentioned this in my first posting. Quanta has a cosmetic restoration service for driveshafts and half-shafts. Price to restore a driveshaft is $90.

                  You can check them out at www.QuantaProducts.com. They also sell PreLube 6.

                  Regards,
                  Gene

                  Comment

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