Ideas ??? I just rebuilt one of the rear wheel bearings on my '73 and have run into a strange problem. Now, I've rebuilt rear bearings before and never had this happen. When I set up bearings and select the shim, I use the bearing support, etc. but do not install the seals until I'm ready for final assembly. In this instance, the set up went as usual (the free play was OK - this includes having the yoke on and the spindle nut torqued to 100 ft lbs.) except when I pressed the final assembly together with seals and all (bearing support is on the T-arm at this point) the torque required to spin the hub was drastically increased over what is was during the set-up and I'm not sure if the bearings "sound" tight or not. I pressed the assembly apart and re-assembled using 1 size larger shim. During set-up, the increased free play could be felt and still appeared within limits. When I pressed the final assembly together again, not only was it still tight, but there was no difference from the previous time. I can't figure it out. The only difference between setup and final assembly was that the bearing support was bolted to the T-arm and the seals were installed. Would the seals cause this increased resistance? Should I be concerned over this? Any suggestions on what I should do?
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
Hello James,We just finished the rear wheel bearing rebuild on our 1964 and ran into the same problem.We setup the bearings without the seal,then reassembled everything with the seal.The spindle seemed tight and noticed the seal wasn't pressed all the way in.We carefully pressed it all the way in and the spindle turned more freely.You might check to see if this might be your problem.Don...... -
Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
Hello James,We just finished the rear wheel bearing rebuild on our 1964 and ran into the same problem.We setup the bearings without the seal,then reassembled everything with the seal.The spindle seemed tight and noticed the seal wasn't pressed all the way in.We carefully pressed it all the way in and the spindle turned more freely.You might check to see if this might be your problem.Don......Comment
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
Don----
In order to set the bearing end play properly, the bearings, spacer, shim and spindle(or, more preferably, bearing set-up tool) need to be installed in the bearing support WITHOUT GREASE OR SEALS and the spindle nut torqued to 100 lb/ft. Then, the bearings need to be rotated so as to seat the roller bearings in the inner race(the race that's part of the caged bearing assembly). Afterwards, the end play, as measured with a dial indicator, should be in the range of .001-.006", with .001-.002" HIGHLY PREFERABLE. All this is most easily done with a bearing set-up tool, but it sounds as if you did it using the spindle and the "by feel" method of setting end-play. This will work, but it's a lot more hassle and doesn't always lend itself to a precise end-play setting.
If you did it this way and felt some end play, then you disassembled it and added another shim, you now have too much end play----guaranteed. GM shims are spaced .006" apart. If you could feel end play with the first shim, then you had at least .002-.003". If you added a thicker shim, you increased this by .006". So, now you probably have .008-.009", which is too much in my opinion.
The important point to note is that if you have proper end play WITHOUT GREASE OR SEALS installed, that's it; you've got it. After you install grease and seals, you will not be able to accurately measure end play and the assembly will have considerably increased rotational "drag". The rotational "drag" is much more pronounced if you are using original type seals with the "flat" rubber seal sandwiched between two metal retainers. If you are using the up-dated "lip" type seals which are bonded to the steel retainer ring, the rotational "drag" is usually far less pronounced.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
Don----
In order to set the bearing end play properly, the bearings, spacer, shim and spindle(or, more preferably, bearing set-up tool) need to be installed in the bearing support WITHOUT GREASE OR SEALS and the spindle nut torqued to 100 lb/ft. Then, the bearings need to be rotated so as to seat the roller bearings in the inner race(the race that's part of the caged bearing assembly). Afterwards, the end play, as measured with a dial indicator, should be in the range of .001-.006", with .001-.002" HIGHLY PREFERABLE. All this is most easily done with a bearing set-up tool, but it sounds as if you did it using the spindle and the "by feel" method of setting end-play. This will work, but it's a lot more hassle and doesn't always lend itself to a precise end-play setting.
If you did it this way and felt some end play, then you disassembled it and added another shim, you now have too much end play----guaranteed. GM shims are spaced .006" apart. If you could feel end play with the first shim, then you had at least .002-.003". If you added a thicker shim, you increased this by .006". So, now you probably have .008-.009", which is too much in my opinion.
The important point to note is that if you have proper end play WITHOUT GREASE OR SEALS installed, that's it; you've got it. After you install grease and seals, you will not be able to accurately measure end play and the assembly will have considerably increased rotational "drag". The rotational "drag" is much more pronounced if you are using original type seals with the "flat" rubber seal sandwiched between two metal retainers. If you are using the up-dated "lip" type seals which are bonded to the steel retainer ring, the rotational "drag" is usually far less pronounced.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
After some experimenting and some head scratching, I have solved the problem. First, I want to give thanks for the replies, they helped. I also want to say thanks to Van Steel in Florida for taking the time to have a technical conversation with me when they had no involvement. The problem turned out to be the seals. Even removed, the seals fit the spindle and yoke so tightly I could barely rotate them by hand. The original seals and bearings I was going to use I obtained from Corvette Central. I was disappointed to find that these were cheap "no name" made in Taiwan parts. I didn't use the bearings and got Timken's instead, but the seals looked OK (they were not the lip type and I never test fit them on the spindle & yoke). I obtained new "lip type" seals (to my knowledge only CR-Chicago Rawhide makes them)and re-did the assembly using my initial shim set-up. Surprise - it was perfect and has almost 0 tolerance. The simple fact is that really only the "lip type" seals work correctly (CR seals are all that Van Steel uses & they still slightly modify them). I have a complete shop so I don't need many of the Kent-Moore tools, but I would strongly recommend the shim set up tool to anyone doing rear bearings. The methodology Joe stated in his reply is pretty much right on the money. I would also caution anyone against buying bearings and seals from Corvette Central as they do not stock quality parts and in my opinion gave me less than adequate customer service surrounding this issue. If anyone has further questions, please let me know.Comment
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
After some experimenting and some head scratching, I have solved the problem. First, I want to give thanks for the replies, they helped. I also want to say thanks to Van Steel in Florida for taking the time to have a technical conversation with me when they had no involvement. The problem turned out to be the seals. Even removed, the seals fit the spindle and yoke so tightly I could barely rotate them by hand. The original seals and bearings I was going to use I obtained from Corvette Central. I was disappointed to find that these were cheap "no name" made in Taiwan parts. I didn't use the bearings and got Timken's instead, but the seals looked OK (they were not the lip type and I never test fit them on the spindle & yoke). I obtained new "lip type" seals (to my knowledge only CR-Chicago Rawhide makes them)and re-did the assembly using my initial shim set-up. Surprise - it was perfect and has almost 0 tolerance. The simple fact is that really only the "lip type" seals work correctly (CR seals are all that Van Steel uses & they still slightly modify them). I have a complete shop so I don't need many of the Kent-Moore tools, but I would strongly recommend the shim set up tool to anyone doing rear bearings. The methodology Joe stated in his reply is pretty much right on the money. I would also caution anyone against buying bearings and seals from Corvette Central as they do not stock quality parts and in my opinion gave me less than adequate customer service surrounding this issue. If anyone has further questions, please let me know.Comment
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
James-----
Yes, the bearing set-up tool is worth its weight in gold when performing rear bearing servicing. Although I use the Kent-Moore tool, if a person has a shop with a lathe, a serviceable tool could be fabricated.
As far as the seals go, the original rear seals and replacements available from GM are made by National Seal. The bonded "lip" seal is, as you mentioned and as far as I know, only manufactured by CR. They are available for front wheel bearing seal applications, as well.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: '73 rear wheel bearing problem
James-----
Yes, the bearing set-up tool is worth its weight in gold when performing rear bearing servicing. Although I use the Kent-Moore tool, if a person has a shop with a lathe, a serviceable tool could be fabricated.
As far as the seals go, the original rear seals and replacements available from GM are made by National Seal. The bonded "lip" seal is, as you mentioned and as far as I know, only manufactured by CR. They are available for front wheel bearing seal applications, as well.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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