1967 A-Arm Removal - NCRS Discussion Boards

1967 A-Arm Removal

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  • Joseph Sanfilippo

    1967 A-Arm Removal

    First, let me say that I have posted a couple of questions here before, and have gotten terrific advice. Thanks to all who have helped me. I would like to remove the A-arms on my 1967 Coupe for cleaning/bead blasting, and bushing replacement. How difficult is this, and do I need any specialized tools? What color should the A-arms be painted? Thanks.
  • Eugene B.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 31, 1988
    • 710

    #2
    Re: 1967 A-Arm Removal

    Joseph,
    You'll get lots of good advice from the members regarding your question. I am going to tackle this project on my '65 as soon as I get the rear suspension back together.

    While I was in Carlisle, I purchased a video from Van Steel called Van Steel Supension Video that gives an excellent over-view of front and rear suspension work. I highly recommend this video (about $15-$20) for anyone considering such activity. They can be found on the internet at www.vansteel.com.

    As others will point out, the big deal with the front suspension is safely removing and reinstalling the coil springs. We had a great posting on this issue about a month ago. You will be able to find it in the archives

    Good luck,
    Gene

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43193

      #3
      Re: 1967 A-Arm Removal

      Joe and Gene-----

      Yes, removal of the front coil springs is the most difficult part of removing the front A-arms and that procedure should be well-covered in numerous posts in the archives. Also, it's covered in your Corvette/Chevrolet Factory Service Manual. Once the springs are out, removal of the a-arms is pretty easy. For the lowers, remove the 2 forward and 1 rear frame attaching bolts and it's done. For the uppers, remove the 2 nuts attaching the arm to the frame-mounted studs and it's loose. Be sure to tape the alignment shim packs together and mark which position on each side that each pack "belongs to".

      The a-arms were originally painted a semi-gloss black which was very close to full gloss. SERVICE a-arms were often painted a full gloss black. Also, SERVICE upper a-arms were unpainted for about 4" on the ball joint end. I'm not sure that PRODUCTION a-arms lacked this paint, though. PRODUCTION and SERVICE a-arms were supplied differently. For PRODUCTION, the a-arms were supplied to St. Louis with the shafts installed but the ball joints not installed. For SERVICE, the a-arms were supplied with the ball joints installed but the shafts not installed. I think that this may account for a difference in painting.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • David H.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 2001
        • 1485

        #4
        Re: 1967 A-Arm Removal

        The Van Steel video is an excellent suggestion, lots of helpful hints and suggestions. Just note that the car in the video comes apart pretty easily. Be careful when removing the spring (I used a spring compressor, and chained the spring to the frame - no problems. I strongly recommend having access to the A.I.M. and the GM shop manual specific to your year car. (Setting the coil spring in the shock tower, etc.)

        Also note that many specialty tools can be rented for free (deposit) from Auto Zone. The front suspension on my 1980 came apart without a lot of trouble. The trailing arms were a PITA.
        Judging Chairman Mid-Way USA (Kansas) Chapter

        Comment

        • Mike Cobine

          #5
          Re: 1967 A-Arm Removal

          Joseph,
          The easiest way I have found to remove A-arms is this:

          1. Place car on jack stands
          2. Remove wheel.
          3. Remove shock.
          4. Insert long threaded rod through shock mounting from above. Use a large rod, at least 1/2 inch, preferably 5/8 if it fits in your shock hole. Use several large washers with grease between them on top. Use large washers and large pipe flange to cover the large shock hole on bottom.
          5. Have a few inches of rod sticking out the bottom. Use two nuts on bottom to add safety.
          6. Have about a foot sticking out the top. Use a couple of drops of oil to aid the nut turning.
          7. Use ONLY the top nut to tighten and loosen. DO NOT GET UNDER THE CAR.
          8. Tighten the rod until A-arm begins to lift.
          9. Remove the rear shaft bolt and the front two shaft bolts.
          10. Slowly loosen the top nut on the rod until the spring rattles.
          11. Remove sway bar link.
          12. Remove lower ball joint.

          To install:

          1. Reverse the procedure.
          2. Use three 6- or 8-inch bolts as guide pins for the A-arm shaft.

          See the archives for all the discussion on safety issues, arguments on rod size, whether this is safe or not, spring compressors pro and con, and so on.

          Then you decide.

          Comment

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