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I'm in the process of replacing the door panels on my '69. Between the old panels and the door frame there is (really old and torn up) plastic sheathing. Looking at it, it seems like the only thing it would accomplish is protecting the plasting door panel from weather "maybe". Practically speaking, I can't see that it doesn anything at all.
Why is it there? Do I really need it? Will my car hate me if I don't install it?
It is really a vapor barrier, similar to the stuff that is put between the sheathing and exterior building material of a frame constructed building. Its function is to block moisture, and will prevent your inner door panels from absorbing too much moisture and getting musty. Even if you "don't drive your car in the rain", it is a good idea to install them. A cheapo substitute would be ordinary plastic sheeting, or even a plastic trash bag.
Lonnie, Go to yur local hardware staore and buy a sheet of (Clear Plastic sheet)Visqueen. It's thicker than a garbage bag and will be easier to work with. The stuff at a local store here comes 12 feet wide so a 3 foot length should do both doors. Good Luck....
Lay a bead of continuous pieces of 3M Black Strip Caulk on the steel inner door panel at the perimeter of the plastic to hold it in place. Flatten the bead out by pressing it down firmly through the plastic so that the door trim panel can fit against the inner door panel as intended.
The original GM vapor barriers for 68+ were MOLDED. You don't need to worry about trying to get these, though, since they've been discontinued for quite awhile and are not reproduced. Substitutes made from sheet material as described by others will work. However, keep in mind that GM didn't use a molded design because sheets cut from flat stock would work just as well.
Thanks Joe. I already knew the answer since I'm the original owner of a 64. I just can't understand from Patrick's reply why anyone would pay for a reproduction piece of paper,when one can easily fabricate both doors from,as you said, heavy brown kraft paper which can't be seen anyway.
This website is a wealth of knowledge. Don't be afraid to ask ANY question, no matter how asinine it may seem, because we are always learning. Once we stop laughing at you (just kidding), someone here will be glad to answer.
Thanks Joe for the warm greeting. Though my NCRS membership has since expired, I monitor this site as well as the Corvetteforum site on a daily basis and am amazed by the vast amount of obtainable information from the "been there and done there crowd". When I purchased my 64 coupe new in October'64(I traded in a 3 month old Mustang{my 1st car}, I was completely mechanilcally disabled and it was after the 36 month warranty ran out that began to purchase tools in order to do my own work and learned a lot by trial and error. Currently, I am in the process of stripping the paint off the Vette with what I personally believe is the easiest way, the old laquer and steel wool method.
Jack: I would not recommend the use of steel wool for sripping the paint from your vette, it can leave minute steel particles in the fiberglass. I would strongly recommend the use of ScotchBrite pads and you will get the same smooth as silk results.
Len, this will be the 3rd time the 64 will be stripped down to bare glass. I don't believe that ScothBrite pads were in existence 27 plus years ago when I stripped the car the first time of its original paint and for the second time of the metal flake(that was the rage then)paint job. I did start to strip it this time with Scotch-pads only to discover that the laquer was slowly dissolving the pad and loading it up as I was using it. For that reason,I switched back to the coarsest(#3)that I could buy at your local Home Depot. Personally, I don't recall any problems back then in the late 60's with paint jobs 2 and 3(3 being the current black as the original color) after using steel wool. I would think that any minute strands or particles would be detectable to the hand gliding over the cars surface. The car is probably 3/4 stripped at this point and I'm thinking of fine sanding the entire body after stripping and some glass work. I certainly would appreciate other opinions or horror stories regarding steel wool. While we are on the subject of stripping paint, is there anyone who is familiar with the old Dupont Lacquer Removing Solvent that was available decades ago? Great stuff then(hi performance laquer thinner) and too bad it's not available today. As far as my use of laquer thinner, that was my ist and only choice because of the little mess generated by its use and the fact that it doesn't have to be "neutralized" when done and I can quit at any time I want to.
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