Tweet
When making the front spring compressor tool I have seen described,(threaded rod inserted through the shock hole, and steel plate) do I need to use material harder than found in hardware stores for the threaded rod? I would also like to know how far down the spring to place the steel plate for best results.
-
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
Rob,
Try to get the plate as close to the bottom as you can. That will allow the most compression of the spring. When I did the springs on my Camaro I found that the threads on the rod were damaged where the rod went through the shock hole. As I tightened the nut the threads were "buggered" creating a difficult turn of the nut. I'm not sure if it was due to inferior rod material, but hopefully a quality threaded rod will allow it to be used more than once. Good Luck and be careful. -
Hardware store all-thread works fine
Rob,
With my '66 I used 1/2" OD, 13 threads per inch, zinc plated (or galvanized?) steel all-thread from my local hardware store and it worked fine. I bought 3 feet of it, which was plenty long.
GaryComment
-
Just borrow one from Auto Zone
Auto Zone has spring compressor tools that you can rent for free (deposit returned). That is what I did when working on my 1980. They have a lot of other tools for "rent" as well. Why make one?Judging Chairman Mid-Way USA (Kansas) ChapterComment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
I used a 3' long piece of 5/8" threaded rod. Double-nutted on both ends with pipe flanges as washers. Thought I was pretty safe. Then Joe Lucia advised to also chain the coils in case the rod or the nuts let go. John Hinckley advised that ordinary threaded rod from a hardware store was pretty weak. He advised Acme-threaded hardened steel rod (available from industrial suppliers). The square-profile Acme threads are MANY times stronger in tension than conventional threads.Comment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
Rob The theraded rod runs from the bottom of the lower a-arm to the top of the upper a-arm. It does not clamp to the coils of the spring at all the way I do it. LyleLyle
Comment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
when i did this i found that rempoval is not the problem; replacement is. the spring needs to be curved to replace it easily. i have read about pounding it or using a pry bar. however, the autozone spring tool i borrowed has a note IN VERY FINE PRINT that says gm springs need to be curved for ease of installation. it is very easy to do this with their spring tool and instruction sheet. heed this advice from one that had a great problem installing the spring until i saw the samll note about curving it. after that it was a simple job. why test fate using a pry bar or a big hammer or chains etc?? the autozone tool is free.Comment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
Maybe someone ought to start making these special tools we need on occasion and selling them, reasonably priced, to fellow members. Just a thought.
TerryComment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
Terry Sell a $10.00 tool , need 10 pages of cautions and lose the farm to lawyers when Bubba could not read and got hurt. LyleLyle
Comment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
Your right Lyle, it's ashame no one takes responsiblity for their own actions these days. But how about this, a list of tools you can make yourself. Things other members have done to keep from buying an exspensive tool you might use twice.
TerryComment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
I recommend you go back and read the thread on Aug. 12, 2003 C2 front control arm bushings
"According to http://www.hobson.com.au/mild_steel.htm
Allthread of 5/8ths diameter has 14,190 psi tensile strength. 1/2 inch has 8660 psi.
Even with HD springs of 460 lb/in, and the springs with the suspension at rest is typically only compressed an inch and maybe 2 inches of the new "too long" reproductions, you are looking at 920 lb of force.
With the car on the ground, weight on wheels, you have 3600 lb / 4 wheels * 21 inch arm / 9 inch arm-to-spring = 2,100 lbs. However, you aren't removing the spring with WOW."
I also recommend you look at the Vettenet Archives at:
This topic has been discussed often there. Do a search for "threaded rod" and "front suspension".
As Lyle 24961 said on 15-Aug:
"If one feels their method is unsafe they should hire it done. I have seen many hooks and pullers that have flew off by people not paying attention. What ever one uses to do the job be smart and alert to problems."
One other comment about tools - this is a very good reason why membership in a local club is very beneficial. National organizations help a lot with tons of knowledge, but in a job like this, having someone in California or New York isn't the same as having them an arm's length away.
Your local club probably has several who not only have done the job, but have the tools you can borrow to do it AND will probably come over and give you a hand.
Join a local club. It won't replace NCRS, just like NCRS doesn't replace the local club, but they both are important to your full enjoyment of your Corvette.Comment
-
Re: FRONT SPRING REMOVAL TOOL
Terry I had my tools I made myself at Seven Springs regional this year and did a one hour talk about them. The spring tool was one of many that I had on display. LyleLyle
Comment
Comment