Rivets

[Bill E.]

Hello:

I'm replacing the rear compartment plastic door main frame in my 74 roadster. I purchased the original style soft rivets that secure the door hinges to the plastic frame. The old frame, which looks to be original, had the rivet head mounted on the outside of the frame meaning that the compressed part of the rivet is between the closing part of the hinge. This makes it difficult to install the rivets since there is not much room to work.

Any ideas on installing the rivets other than buying an expensive tool?

[Joe L.]

Re: Rivets

Bill-----

I think that you will need to remove the compartment frame from the car before you'll be able to install the rivets.

[Bill E.]

Re: Rivets

Hi Joe:

The old frame is broken and I am replacing it with a new one. Everything is out of the car.

Bill

[Harmon C.]

Re: Rivets

As I recall you don't need the rivets for the hinges to work only for the original look. Lyle

[Bill E.]

Re: Rivets

Hello Lyle:

The rivets hold the hinges to the frame. I'm sure I could find something else that would work but I was hoping someone had figured out a way to install the replacement frame as close to original specs as possible. The problem is that the frame itself is in the way if you just try to hammer the rivet. There is a special tool I found that would work but it costs $250.00. That's a lot for a one-time use which, as you point out, is more for appearance than anything else.

Bill

[Chuck Swenson]

Re: Rivets

What's the special tool you found? I was looking for one that can be used on semi-tubular rivets. Instead of using a punch to flange other side of rivet.

Thanks, Chuck

[Harmon C.]

Re: Rivets

Bill I checked out the instalation and the screws that hold the frame in place also go thru the hinges so you can install the unit without the rivets.I would not need a $250. tool to make the rivets appear correct. The rivets are soft aluminum and could be backed up on a vice or heavy metal block of steel. As for the rivets they need to all be cut to the same length(very imporant and I made a tool to do this) to look the same when squashed. You would need to make 2 tools out of 1/2 rod 6" long and have the end drilled to the size of the original squash. Leave one round in the bottom and the other needs a flat bottom with square sides. Use the the round drilled rod to start the squash and the square sided one to finish the squash as original. It must be flat to look correct but their is room for a dome shaped squash if it is small . Lyle

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: Rivets

Bill:
The easiest and cheapest way to set these rivets is to purchase an inexpensive air hammer from your local Home Depot- Campbell Hausfield TL 1003 cost me under $20. Also buy a round 3/8" punch and hollow out the flat end with a dremel tool. Use a compressor (even a small one will work because you want to lower the pressure so it doesn't "wack" the rivet too hard). Then use a vise as a buck and let the tool do the work. It makes a perfect factory looking set. I have used this set up many times and always get a perfect result. Hope this helps.
Jeff Salz #13182

[Harmon C.]

Re: Rivets

Jeff I am sure the air tool works good for this job. The set on thease rivets is not the round domed shape as we usally see. It is round with a flat top and square sides and would need to be cut out with a special too to get the lookof original. Lyle

[Bill E.]

Re: Rivets

Chuck:

I saw the tool in a supply catalog at a friend's machine shop. He's out of town now but I'll get the info for you when he returns later this week.

Bill

[Bill E.]

Re: Rivets

Lyle:

Thanks for all the info. Between you and Jeff I think I have a chance of doing this right.

Bill

[Bill E.]

Re: Rivets

Jeff:

Thanks for the tip on the air hammer.

Bill