MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION - NCRS Discussion Boards

MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

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  • Rob A.
    Expired
    • December 1, 1991
    • 2126

    MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

    Can the bolts that hold the rear spring to the differential be torqued after attaching the spring to the trailing arms, {without any weight on the wheels} or do they need to be torqued with the spring fully de-arched with the weight of the car on it? If the latter is the case, I suppose I can put the rear tires on with some sand bags on the rear of the frame. ( I am currently finishing a '67 chassis restoration and the body is off}.
  • Eugene B.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 31, 1988
    • 710

    #2
    Re: MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

    Rob,
    The 1965 AIM states (on page E145) that the BOLTS MUST BE TORQUED WITH SPRING COMPRESSED TO DESIGN HEIGHT. Previous posts have warned that if this procedure is not followed that it is possible to snap the mounting ears off the rear end housing. BAD THING!

    I'm sure that many others will respond and keep you out of trouble.

    Good luck,
    Gene

    Comment

    • William C.
      NCRS Past President
      • May 31, 1975
      • 6037

      #3
      Re: MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

      Not only the spring, but all the bolts that compress the front and rear suspension bushings, trailing arms and front upper and lower "A" arns require a fully loaded condition before being torqued.
      Bill Clupper #618

      Comment

      • Joe C.
        Expired
        • August 31, 1999
        • 4598

        #4
        Re: MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

        As Bill says, both front and rear components are involved. As for the control arms, you want the cross shaft bushings preloaded @ curb weight. More importantly, as for the rear spring bolts, if you torque them with the spring unloaded, there is the danger of cracking the diff rear cover.

        Leave the above mentioned bolts "snug", until just before you get the car aligned. I tied a ball and chain to my left leg, as a reminder to torque all the bolts upon completion.

        Joe

        Comment

        • Rob A.
          Expired
          • December 1, 1991
          • 2126

          #5
          Re: MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

          I am trying to just snug the bolts in enough to the differential to be able to attach the ends to the trailing arms. It's difficult to even just get a couple of turns in on all of them with the lock washer in place.....perhaps I should use longer bolts, (temporarily), until I can get enough weight on the rear wheels to compress the spring to normal ride height, and then install the correct bolts.... sound familiar to anyone?

          Comment

          • Stephen L.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • May 31, 1984
            • 3148

            #6
            Re: MID YEAR REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

            I recently installed my rear spring in the following manner during a frame-off.....
            1. Frame on jack stands
            2. Install spring on differential carrier. Snug bolts
            3. Install trailing arms with shims. Finger-tight bolts.
            4. Get at least 2 people to assist....

            A. Have one sit on frame at rear wheel area

            B. Using a 6-8FT 2X4 on edge, have other helper hold down frame by getting between the frame members for leverage from the rear of the frame.

            C. While the helpers are keeping the frame on the jack stands, use a floor jack to carefully jack up the end of the spring (place a clamp on the spring to prevent slip) and install the trailing arm to spring bolts and rubber cushions.

            D. Hang a note/sign on the differential "TIGHTEN SUSPENSION BOLTS"

            E. When the body is on and the car is at curb weight THEN tighten ALL your suspension bolts FRONT AND BACK. oh, and remove the sign from step "D"
            This worked well for me... of course the heavier/stronger friends the better.

            Comment

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