The problem is that the auto choke on my 1967 327/300 does not close the butterfly and there is consequently no high idle. I must keep the idle high when cold by using the accelerator until engine warms up. This problem just started at the beginning of the summer. Th 3810 carb is stock, never been monkeyed with or damaged and has not missed a beat in 20 years--until now.I replaced the choke coil with one from Zip Products and it is an exact match. It appears that the coil is not pushing up the choke linkage. In the past, the choke butterfly slammed shut no matter what the temp. and high idle was normal. All linkage is free. The choke butterfly just hangs loosely when the gas pedal is depressed. I can't believe that just because the ambient temp. is 85 degrees, the choke won't slam shut. I really don't want to have to adjust it as it worked fine in the past. I can see no earthly reason why this choke won't close! What do you reccommend??
Auto Choke Problem-3810 Carb.
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Re: Auto Choke Problem-3810 Carb.
Roy, Thanks for the response. Maybe I don't get it, but how would carbon in the intake canal affect the mechanical operation of the choke? The choke heats up just fine once the engine has been running for a few minutes. It just seems that the bi-metallic spring is too weak to activate the choke butterfly when cold. Note that I had the original (36 years old) choke coil in when all this started and the new one acts the same.Any thoughts? Thanx!
P.S. anyone else out there with a fix, it's driving me nuts?- Top
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Re: Auto Choke Problem-3810 Carb.Don
If the choke works fine when hot and the butterfly is free and the choke rod is not hanging up and engine heat is un-winding the choke spring and the moon still comes out at night. All I can think of what's left is the carb linkage is not free to allows the choke rod to move a cam which in turn closes the butterfly.With the engine off pull the gas pedal rod back and hold it while on the right side of the carb move the high idal came up.?????????????? you got me!!!!!!!!- Top
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