C1 "Originality" Opinions Requested - NCRS Discussion Boards

C1 "Originality" Opinions Requested

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  • Tom Spurgeon

    C1 "Originality" Opinions Requested

    O.K. We've purchased a very rough 1960 corvette. I owe incredible amounts of gratitude to those of you who've helped me with my initial "getting started" questions.

    Now, here's where it gets interesting: "Do I return this car to its original -as manufactured- state?".

    The delimma: The car is late 1960, the frame I.D. does match the steering I.D. I do have an authentic rear end coming for it. I do have an authentic T-10 (dated early '60). I do have an authentic driveshaft. I've acquired an authentic radiator and support for it. I did purchase a 3.70 posi unit from a '62 for it AND I do have a 1957 ONLY dated 283. Should I restamp? OR???

    I'm at the point where it will be too late to turn back once we begin preperation and assembly. While it would require a lot more effort to "do it right" ...we're looking for opinions.
    Thanks again in advance,
    Tom Spurgeon
    corvettethomas67

    P.S. If you'd like to see where it is, at this point, visit the link below.




    1960 Corvette
  • Patrick H.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • December 1, 1989
    • 11608

    #2
    Re: C1 "Originality" Opinions Requested

    "While it would require a lot more effort to 'do it right'..."

    Tom,

    It really doesn't take a lot more effort. In fact, I often believe it takes just as much to do it right as to do it wrong.

    The real difference will be in two areas: the engine and the paint.

    To build a "restoration motor" will cost you more than rebuilding a 350 from the junkyard, and likely more than buying a brand new ZZ4 crate motor and dropping it in (my personal preference). It will also take more effort to have every part of that restoration motor match regarding date codes and originality.

    With paint, you will have to decide if you want it lacquer as per 1960 original, single stage urethane as that you might be able to fake it with, or BC/CC as per modern cars.

    Otherwise, there is little that will be different in real terms between doing it "right" and doing it "wrong" other than small details along the way. The "effort" to rebuild everything else won't change.

    Good luck,

    Patrick
    Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
    71 "deer modified" coupe
    72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
    2008 coupe
    Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

    Comment

    • G B.
      Expired
      • December 1, 1974
      • 1407

      #3
      Restamp?

      Please don't confuse stamping a block with "doing it right".

      Comment

      • Tom Spurgeon

        #4
        Re: Restamp?

        Jerry, please expand...

        Comment

        • Dave Suesz

          #5
          If I may...

          The original engine in my car broke a piston in the 60's, and about 5 years later we found a correct year (the 55 is unique, having no oil filter) block. Put everything back together "as" original, no fake stamp. With a little better luck I'd still have the original. The "wrong" engine stamp is a reminder to me how much proud effort went into getting to that point. Bragging a restamped engine was "original" would stick in my craw, anyway, so what's the point?

          Comment

          • G B.
            Expired
            • December 1, 1974
            • 1407

            #6
            The expansion you requested

            I don't think restamped blocks are a good thing for a Corvette. Sooner or later, a restamp may deceive someone into thinking the car is worth more than it would be otherwise. That's unintentional fraud at best.

            Comment

            • Bill B.
              Expired
              • September 30, 2002
              • 351

              #7
              Re: C1 "Originality" Opinions Requested

              Tom, I purchased a 58 in similiar condition about five years ago. Grand plan then was to turn into "show stopping correct" restoration. Of course, the transmission was missing, the motor was a 1959 truck 283, and rear end was a passenger setup. I have found that finding all the correct stuff is not really that hard--we have the internet and lots of sources for easy access today! It is more of an issue on "how deep" are your pockets and how much time have you got? If you have the cash, why not go all the way? I have seen a 99.8 point 1958 and I think mine will look just as good provided a bunch of NCRS judges and purists don't see her when finished. To me, everything you and I do will be counterfeit if trying to produce a "documented and judgeable" effort. Sounds to me like you want to drive her and have fun with her and pass her on to your family. My advice is make her mechanically safe and use era correct stuff and don't get hung up in developing a "trailer queen" quality effort.

              Comment

              • Tom P.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • April 1, 1980
                • 1814

                #8
                You asked for opinions, OK,, here you are

                Since this is the NCRS channel, most likely there will be more people suggest that you go the extra effort to making it as "correct" as possible.
                It is your car, your money, you do it the way you want it. DON'T MAKE IT SUIT SOMEONE ELSE'S DESIRE! Personally, I dislike to see early Vettes (or anything else) butchered up. But, you can build an EXTREMELY correct car if that is what you want, or a pro-street car, or anything in between. My personal preference (NOT my opinion) is the look of a FACTORY Heavy Duty option car. Kind of plain, dog dish hubcaps, fuel injection, black wall tires, etc, etc. I have a 56 which I have built to look like a 57 579E car, but, that is where it stops. I have replaced the 265 with a SB400 and modified Rochester FI, the tranny is a close ratio Muncie and the rear is a 62 housing and 3.08 posi. I have retained the factory appearance (color, interior, dash, etc) but it is built to fly. That's what I wanted, and after all these years (bought in 73) I still like it. But that may not be for you. Maybe you just want an practical, esthetic, car with a mild engine and an auto tranny for easy cruising or weekend showing.
                BUILD IT YOUR WAY!!!!!!! Forget the purists (unless they pay for it)!

                Comment

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