Hello, I have a 72 454 that i have just installed headman headers. I bought a remote mount starter solinoid and couldn't get it to work. I think i need a ground strap on the mounting screw instead of a ground wire ( i could only get the solinoid to make noise with the s wire and the r wire reversed, starter didn't even try to move). I got to thinking do i really need this to cure my future hot start problems. Could i use a starter motor heat shield blanket instead. I used header thermotech wrap and a stainless steel heat shield on my camaro 350 and is still got heat soak. The remote mount solinoid was the only cure for that but the headers went closer to the starter on that car. Does anybody have any experience with headers and heatsoak problems and what was your cure for it? Thanks Eric
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Re: 72 454 starter heat soak issue
Eric; on the 73 we had "non-starting" a couple of times and tapping on the solinoid would usually work, however when I took the starter to overhaul it I was told it was fine but the solinoid was bad. I replaced the starter with a "blanket style" heat barrier and haven't had any problems since. The current system has been in place about six months though and we haven't driven the car a lot. John -
it is the solinoid is what gets hot.
GM went to the remote solinoid for their 454 motorhomes. you need a jumper connection between the battery term on your starter solinoid and the purple wire term so when your remote solinoid activates the starter motor this will pull in the solinoid. the purple wire that originally went to the GM solinoid now goes to the remote solinoid. GM also sell a lighter spring for easier pullin of the starter solinoid but i do not have the number here.Comment
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Re: it is the solinoid is what gets hot.
Clem, The kit comes with a jumper that I installed between the "s" terminal and the pos battery terminal on the original solinoid. Then I hooked the "S" terminal form the orginal starter to the "S" terminal to the remote solinoid (small red wire). Then i took the R terminal from the original solinoid to the "I" terminal of the remote solinoid (this is what it tells you in the instructions). Then i have hooked the pos terminal from the battery to the side terminal next to the "S" terminal. Then another pos cable from the remote solinoid to the original solinoid pos terminal. I have a ground wire hook on the frame and going to the mounting bolt ( maybe is needs a ground strap instead of a wire). With it this way it does nothing but with the "S" terminal and the "I,R" terminal reversed the solinoid activates with the turn of the key but not the starter motor. I am going to call summit today to see what they say. EricComment
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Re: it is the solinoid is what gets hot.
I called summit and went over the wiring part of it and they said it was wired correctly and it must be the new remote mount solinoid that was bad. They did not know how to test it though. They also said it didn't need a grond wire to the mounting bolt even if it was mounted on fiberglass. EricComment
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Re: it is the solinoid is what gets hot.
i have never used a "kit" i always used a ford starter solinoid and made up the wiring. i have been doing this since the 60s on chevy powered race cars.Comment
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Re: it is the solinoid is what gets hot.
Clem, Do you know how to test one to see if it is good? I put a screwdriver accross the "S" termianl and pos battery terminal on the remote solinoid and it didn't try to start. That should have started it. Maybe i got a bad one. EricComment
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Re: it is the solinoid is what gets hot.
put a ohm meter across the 2 batery terminals on the remote solenoid and then trigger the solenoid with 12 volts. you should see continuity when you trigger the solenoid.Comment
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