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i've got a 68 327 /350 with ac/, p/w, which keeps frying capicitors in the wiper motor board.i've tried gm's factory ass/ man ,lectic limited 's schem/ and and zips scem/ and none are the same as my vehicles harness .i know gm had problems with the car early on and want to know if any one has heard of and "revisions"made mid prod/ or could point me in the right direction. theres wires that were snipped in the shifter console and im told that with air cars they used to just cut wires o the main harness and add an aux/ a/c harness. some might be seat belt /door ajar buzzers ect/but who knows? also does anyone have a source to buy just the capacitorand or board ass/ instead of a complete ww motor .
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Re: 68/electrical problem wipers
topburger,
I haven't been into the electrical of the WSW motor and I'll leave that to the more knowledgeable.
I did replace my Main Dash Harness in my 68 last winter (TI, PW, no A/C) and your problem reminded me of the WSW relay located in the console. If you haven't yet, then you might want to check the "snipped" wiring you mentioned and see if any of it leads (or should lead) to your WSW relay. It's assembly is on page H275 of the 68 AIM.
One other reference that I have used is the "1953-1972 Corvette Electrical Wiring Diagrams" book available through NCRS, BUT I haven't compared to see if they are duplicates of what you already mentioned.
Also: I have an electrical supplier to mention, but it's only a long-shot. It's "Redline Gauge and Clock Repair" (800-375-2310) located at Humbolt, Tennessee. He may or may not have the WSW capactior/board assemblies you ask for but could know who does. The reason I mentioned him is that they supplied me with a $10.00 wafer-thin thermostatic coil for my fuel gauge when everyone else wanted a rebuilding fee. Hope this can help. Tom #24014 -
Re: 68/electrical problem wipers
topburger,
I haven't been into the electrical of the WSW motor and I'll leave that to the more knowledgeable.
I did replace my Main Dash Harness in my 68 last winter (TI, PW, no A/C) and your problem reminded me of the WSW relay located in the console. If you haven't yet, then you might want to check the "snipped" wiring you mentioned and see if any of it leads (or should lead) to your WSW relay. It's assembly is on page H275 of the 68 AIM.
One other reference that I have used is the "1953-1972 Corvette Electrical Wiring Diagrams" book available through NCRS, BUT I haven't compared to see if they are duplicates of what you already mentioned.
Also: I have an electrical supplier to mention, but it's only a long-shot. It's "Redline Gauge and Clock Repair" (800-375-2310) located at Humbolt, Tennessee. He may or may not have the WSW capactior/board assemblies you ask for but could know who does. The reason I mentioned him is that they supplied me with a $10.00 wafer-thin thermostatic coil for my fuel gauge when everyone else wanted a rebuilding fee. Hope this can help. Tom #24014Comment
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Page correction
The wiring diagram (that you've already seen) is on page H275 of the 68 AIM. The WSW relay assembly is on H263. TomComment
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Page correction
The wiring diagram (that you've already seen) is on page H275 of the 68 AIM. The WSW relay assembly is on H263. TomComment
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Re: 68/electrical problem wipers
topburger,
I thought of a couple of other things you might want to check.
1) SIMPLE: If it's possible that your WSW motor is getting too much "juice" check your fuse panel for the correct size fuse, or insure that someone hadn't previously "jumped" it with some sort of wiring by-pass.
2) MORE COMPLEX: With the confusing harness/wiring that you mentioned, have you been able to make any sense of what you DO have so that those wires are running to the correct WSW places? One other electical (and vacuum)component is a wiper switch "solenoid" that, in 68, is supposed to be mounted to the back of your tach. A double wired electrical connector, similar to the connectors for gauges: fuel, amp, and temp, should be connected. It has a black wire (ground) and a brown wire that runs to your WSW motor. It's configuration is on 68 AIM page H260 and H261. As a side note (and since you mentioned A/C): for some unknown reason to me, that information was transfered out of the C60 (A/C)section, page H328, on 1/29/68. I don't understand what (if anything) it had to do with the A/C anymore then, before it was transfered, as it didn't have later.
Just more information, hope it can help. Tom #24014Comment
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Re: 68/electrical problem wipers
topburger,
I thought of a couple of other things you might want to check.
1) SIMPLE: If it's possible that your WSW motor is getting too much "juice" check your fuse panel for the correct size fuse, or insure that someone hadn't previously "jumped" it with some sort of wiring by-pass.
2) MORE COMPLEX: With the confusing harness/wiring that you mentioned, have you been able to make any sense of what you DO have so that those wires are running to the correct WSW places? One other electical (and vacuum)component is a wiper switch "solenoid" that, in 68, is supposed to be mounted to the back of your tach. A double wired electrical connector, similar to the connectors for gauges: fuel, amp, and temp, should be connected. It has a black wire (ground) and a brown wire that runs to your WSW motor. It's configuration is on 68 AIM page H260 and H261. As a side note (and since you mentioned A/C): for some unknown reason to me, that information was transfered out of the C60 (A/C)section, page H328, on 1/29/68. I don't understand what (if anything) it had to do with the A/C anymore then, before it was transfered, as it didn't have later.
Just more information, hope it can help. Tom #24014Comment
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Re: 68/electrical problem wipers
Hum, how do you know you're 'frying' capacitors? These are typically hearty electrical components and most you get off junkers in the scrap yards despite looking ratty and being +20 years old are A-OK....
I have a digi-bridge (generic LCR meter) because I'm an EE with a personal lab. It lets me check BOTH aspects of capacitor integrity -- storage capacitance and dissipation (cap can have correct capacity but be leaking like a sieve and only a dissipation check will show this....).
Caps break down for really one reason -- they see over voltage stress. Some, like tantalum/electrolytic, are polar and have to be inserted in circuit according to polarity. If you get 'em in backwards, they die FAST and sometimes (e.g. tantalums) spectacularly (read that fireball). -----------------------------------------------------------------------
For now, I'll presume you don't really know it's the cap that's going bad because without an LCR meter, you can't really tell since the polarized caps used in that era were wax/foil or electrolyic technology and when they fail, they show little external evidence. I'd suggest that cut, missing, dangling wires in the center console and/or behind the dash is telltale evidence that someone's been in your harness making mods over the years and your starting place ought to be to get back to known correct/operable harness configuration(s).
Otherwise, you're you may be peeling an artichoke in troubleshooting. A real problem we have, is the BAD electrical documentation on these cars. All that's in the Chassis Service Manual and Assembly Instruction Manual for us to work with is a wiring diagram. This is NOT the same as an electrical schematic diagram....
Schematic shows the WHOLE circuit including what goes on inside each function block. With it, you can devise tests to troubleshoot and repair. Chevy gives us wiring diagrams that basically tell us what wire(s) go where. This works fine for fixing by assembly substitution PROVIDING you have known good substitute assemblies AND you can trust the integrity of the wiring harness itself. In the case of these older cars that have gone through multiple hands, we often can NOT trust the integrity of the wiring harness as folks go inside make repairs/changes then re-tape the harness and we're in the dark....
Short of re-wiring the car (occassionally the most cost effective approach in the end), consider getting professional help. AC-Delco and United Delco shops still exist and many have qualified techs still on the payroll with experience on these cars....Comment
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Re: 68/electrical problem wipers
Hum, how do you know you're 'frying' capacitors? These are typically hearty electrical components and most you get off junkers in the scrap yards despite looking ratty and being +20 years old are A-OK....
I have a digi-bridge (generic LCR meter) because I'm an EE with a personal lab. It lets me check BOTH aspects of capacitor integrity -- storage capacitance and dissipation (cap can have correct capacity but be leaking like a sieve and only a dissipation check will show this....).
Caps break down for really one reason -- they see over voltage stress. Some, like tantalum/electrolytic, are polar and have to be inserted in circuit according to polarity. If you get 'em in backwards, they die FAST and sometimes (e.g. tantalums) spectacularly (read that fireball). -----------------------------------------------------------------------
For now, I'll presume you don't really know it's the cap that's going bad because without an LCR meter, you can't really tell since the polarized caps used in that era were wax/foil or electrolyic technology and when they fail, they show little external evidence. I'd suggest that cut, missing, dangling wires in the center console and/or behind the dash is telltale evidence that someone's been in your harness making mods over the years and your starting place ought to be to get back to known correct/operable harness configuration(s).
Otherwise, you're you may be peeling an artichoke in troubleshooting. A real problem we have, is the BAD electrical documentation on these cars. All that's in the Chassis Service Manual and Assembly Instruction Manual for us to work with is a wiring diagram. This is NOT the same as an electrical schematic diagram....
Schematic shows the WHOLE circuit including what goes on inside each function block. With it, you can devise tests to troubleshoot and repair. Chevy gives us wiring diagrams that basically tell us what wire(s) go where. This works fine for fixing by assembly substitution PROVIDING you have known good substitute assemblies AND you can trust the integrity of the wiring harness itself. In the case of these older cars that have gone through multiple hands, we often can NOT trust the integrity of the wiring harness as folks go inside make repairs/changes then re-tape the harness and we're in the dark....
Short of re-wiring the car (occassionally the most cost effective approach in the end), consider getting professional help. AC-Delco and United Delco shops still exist and many have qualified techs still on the payroll with experience on these cars....Comment
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