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Just aquired an ancient 2X4 setup that I intend to install on my 61 after I get it cleaned up and the carbs rebuilt. The owner said he had had the unit in his storage room for over 30 years and it looks like it. Any tips on how to best clean the manifold? I would rather not media blast it unless necessary, as that has a tendency to polish as well as clean. How about the carbs? I'm not interested in a show type appearance, but rather just good and clean.
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Is the aluminum oxidising?
Then the best bet is to glass bead, but if not, then use Gunk engine cleaner, either in the aerosol can, or the non aerosol and mix it with Kerosene. -
Is the aluminum oxidising?
Then the best bet is to glass bead, but if not, then use Gunk engine cleaner, either in the aerosol can, or the non aerosol and mix it with Kerosene.Comment
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Re: Aluminum manifold cleaning
Ed, On aluminum parts I use different aluminum wheel cleaners that come in spray bottles such as Eagle 1 ETC. Just be sure to buy one that is for non-coated wheels as it will be a little more caustic. These are sprayed on a part and left for a few minutes to clean the metal. You will have to experiment with the time to get the best results. Also you can scrub with a Scotch Bright pad while the cleaner is working. Rinse with water to finish. It may take a few aplications depending on condition. I have used this method on valve covers and other aluminum parts with great success. Good LuckComment
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Re: Aluminum manifold cleaning
Ed, On aluminum parts I use different aluminum wheel cleaners that come in spray bottles such as Eagle 1 ETC. Just be sure to buy one that is for non-coated wheels as it will be a little more caustic. These are sprayed on a part and left for a few minutes to clean the metal. You will have to experiment with the time to get the best results. Also you can scrub with a Scotch Bright pad while the cleaner is working. Rinse with water to finish. It may take a few aplications depending on condition. I have used this method on valve covers and other aluminum parts with great success. Good LuckComment
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Re: Aluminum manifold cleaning
Ed ----
I've had great luck cleaning aluminum parts (especially aluminum intake manifolds) with a local metal finishing company that uses plastic media for blasting. Unlike more aggressive medias such as glass bead or (heaven forbid !) silicon carbide, plastic media cleans the dirt and oxides from the surfaces beautifully without altering the original surface finish. I have even had aluminum valve covers done this way. Using the same media, they also do complete Corvette bodies for gentle surface preparation prior to painting. There will likely be someone in your area who can provide metal cleaning services using plastic media. If in doubt, get them to show you some examples of their work before and after. Some metal finishers are now using baking soda or corn starch as a blasting media for gentle and environmentally friendly cleaning. Keep in mind that when using any blasting process, the results are dependent on four variables: 1) media type and particle size, 2) supply air pressure, 3) media flow rate and 4) distance from blasting gun nozzle to part surface. Finally, it's always a good idea to thoroughly blow out all interior passageways several times to remove any residual media before part installation. On aluminum parts, as a final step, I always blow out the passageways using high pressure city water and then dry with clean compressed air. Hope this helps you out. Good Luck
Craig Jewett # 28049 '67 L-79 A/C coupeComment
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Re: Aluminum manifold cleaning
Ed ----
I've had great luck cleaning aluminum parts (especially aluminum intake manifolds) with a local metal finishing company that uses plastic media for blasting. Unlike more aggressive medias such as glass bead or (heaven forbid !) silicon carbide, plastic media cleans the dirt and oxides from the surfaces beautifully without altering the original surface finish. I have even had aluminum valve covers done this way. Using the same media, they also do complete Corvette bodies for gentle surface preparation prior to painting. There will likely be someone in your area who can provide metal cleaning services using plastic media. If in doubt, get them to show you some examples of their work before and after. Some metal finishers are now using baking soda or corn starch as a blasting media for gentle and environmentally friendly cleaning. Keep in mind that when using any blasting process, the results are dependent on four variables: 1) media type and particle size, 2) supply air pressure, 3) media flow rate and 4) distance from blasting gun nozzle to part surface. Finally, it's always a good idea to thoroughly blow out all interior passageways several times to remove any residual media before part installation. On aluminum parts, as a final step, I always blow out the passageways using high pressure city water and then dry with clean compressed air. Hope this helps you out. Good Luck
Craig Jewett # 28049 '67 L-79 A/C coupeComment
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Re: Aluminum manifold cleaning
While I can't vouch for its effectiveness from experience, I've read in the Corvette Detailing book that Disk Brake Cleaner in spray cans is ideal for aluminum manifolds.
Good luck!
MikeComment
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Re: Aluminum manifold cleaning
While I can't vouch for its effectiveness from experience, I've read in the Corvette Detailing book that Disk Brake Cleaner in spray cans is ideal for aluminum manifolds.
Good luck!
MikeComment
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Sounds silly....
This'll sound silly, but it DOES work....
What I'm after is a concours finish. Short of sending the intake out for professional clean-up and 're-skinning' you're between a rock and a hard place. Any heavy abbrasive you use (including almost any blast media) will remove the original casting surface texture or 'skin' that judges look for. Now for the SILLY.
I strip buck naked. Lay a towel on the tub floor in the shower and rest the intake on it. Equip myself with a variety of natural/nylon bristle brushes from scrub brush to tooth brush in size.
Now, I apply the ALUMINUM version of Naval Gel and let 'er soak in rubbing/stirring ocassionally with the brush set. After 5-15 minutes of soak in the gel, I turn on the shower head and flush and scrub 'er down. Helps to be in the shower itself, hence clothing off....
Repeat process 3-4 times. Now, for a final finish, use LCR (Lime, Calcium, Rust remover) that's available at Wal-Mart, Etc. Follow same approach to get a nicely bright surface and dilute the LCR 50/50 with water.
Let intake dry using towel to scrub any water/etchant residual. There will be the occassional 'scuff' mark here/there from years of use and handling. These will be duller than the 'virgin' surfaces of the casting but in most cases the original 'skin' is 'reasonably intact....
I take a spray can of aluminum paint. Spritz a SMALL amount on the wear areas and use a tooth brush to work the paint in and even it out into adjacent 'virgin' areas. Bottom line, looks pretty darn good for almost any professional concours, cost you a few bucks out of pocket and about 1/2 day of your time at home without sending it out and risking loss or damage in transit....Comment
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Sounds silly....
This'll sound silly, but it DOES work....
What I'm after is a concours finish. Short of sending the intake out for professional clean-up and 're-skinning' you're between a rock and a hard place. Any heavy abbrasive you use (including almost any blast media) will remove the original casting surface texture or 'skin' that judges look for. Now for the SILLY.
I strip buck naked. Lay a towel on the tub floor in the shower and rest the intake on it. Equip myself with a variety of natural/nylon bristle brushes from scrub brush to tooth brush in size.
Now, I apply the ALUMINUM version of Naval Gel and let 'er soak in rubbing/stirring ocassionally with the brush set. After 5-15 minutes of soak in the gel, I turn on the shower head and flush and scrub 'er down. Helps to be in the shower itself, hence clothing off....
Repeat process 3-4 times. Now, for a final finish, use LCR (Lime, Calcium, Rust remover) that's available at Wal-Mart, Etc. Follow same approach to get a nicely bright surface and dilute the LCR 50/50 with water.
Let intake dry using towel to scrub any water/etchant residual. There will be the occassional 'scuff' mark here/there from years of use and handling. These will be duller than the 'virgin' surfaces of the casting but in most cases the original 'skin' is 'reasonably intact....
I take a spray can of aluminum paint. Spritz a SMALL amount on the wear areas and use a tooth brush to work the paint in and even it out into adjacent 'virgin' areas. Bottom line, looks pretty darn good for almost any professional concours, cost you a few bucks out of pocket and about 1/2 day of your time at home without sending it out and risking loss or damage in transit....Comment
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Not silly at all.........
I've used Aluminum Jelly many times, but not to the extremes that Jack has gone through. Aluminum Jelly will do a great job on a crusty intake. I've let the stuff soak and then rinse off with HOT water, and repeated the process and scrubbed with brass detail brushes where necessary. I've never done that in a shower, though. Guess Jack came up with something, knock off two birds with one stone, give yourself and the intake a good scrubbing.
BTW, Aluminum Jelly is acid, therefore, watch the amount of time it is on the intake, and don't let it dry, keep it wet by applying more of the stuff.Comment
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Not silly at all.........
I've used Aluminum Jelly many times, but not to the extremes that Jack has gone through. Aluminum Jelly will do a great job on a crusty intake. I've let the stuff soak and then rinse off with HOT water, and repeated the process and scrubbed with brass detail brushes where necessary. I've never done that in a shower, though. Guess Jack came up with something, knock off two birds with one stone, give yourself and the intake a good scrubbing.
BTW, Aluminum Jelly is acid, therefore, watch the amount of time it is on the intake, and don't let it dry, keep it wet by applying more of the stuff.Comment
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