Just got around to aligning my '64 coupe. Never had a noise before. Rebuilt front suspension and replaced trailing arm bolts and cam bolts and shims. When aligned the car (front and rear)I was told that it had been out of alignment as much as 3 inches at the rear. It is now correctly aligned but at low speeds I get a clunking-knocking noise from the left rear of car. I may have it at faster speeds but its hard to hear then. I thought may have been muffler hitting spare carrier, took it off it was not. What has been moved due to alignment that would cause this. It is pretty loud. Any advise where to start?
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Re: Clunking noises
The last time I heard that noise, it was the front of a trailing arm sliding back and forth on the bolt after the shims fell out (accompanied by really weird handling) -
Re: Clunking noises
Randy,
You mentioned that you replaced the cam bolts. Did you reinstall the two Caps (p/n 3791519) that fill the space between the strut rod and the strut rod bracket? It is a little detail that is often overlooked.
It's hard to imagine that the car could be out 3 inches at the rear. Did you have your alignment performed at a shop that has a four-wheel alignment machine? If not, maybe the car in not aligned properly and causing some kind of problem.
Good luck,
GeneComment
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Re: Clunking noises
Randy:
I would lose all faith in ANYONE who tells me that rear alignment (whatever that means......is it camber, or toe?.........rear caster, or King pin angle, is not adjustable) is out by three inches!!!!!!!! If that is true, then even the future gov. of California would not be able to keep the car straight.
Agree with John H., probably a problem with the trailing arm attachment bolts/shims.
JoeComment
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Re: Clunking noises
Joe----
Yes, "3 inches" out of alignment is NOT POSSIBLE with a Corvette rear toe adjustment unless some related component is so distorted/bent as to be obvious to a novice. With that much "out-of-toe" I don't think that it would be possible to drive the car, at all.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Clunking noises
I must have misunderstood what he said and how he meant it,however the shims are still in place and trailing arm bolts are tight and locked.Is it possible that the halfshaft u-joints or bolts were effected by this work? The shop that did this does many Corvettes and street rods in the area and is highly recommended by local clubs.I do trust his work, I just think something was effected by the work. Your advice is still needed here. Keep it coming.Comment
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Re: Clunking noises
Randy:
In order to properly align your trailing arms, there are 2 (two) points where the technician would have made any adjustments, as follows:
1. Rearranging the shim pack at the attachment point of the trailing arm to the frame. This will affect the rear toe setting (zero preferred, unless your rear trailing arm bushings are weak or worn)
2. Changing the rear camber setting by adjusting the cams at the rear links. -1 degree preferred, for stable straight line tracking. If you intend to autocross your car, then I would recommend much more negative camber which will provide better transient steering response.Comment
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Re: From the bleachers
Don't know squat about 64s but how about these.
Rear sway bar (if it has one)loose?
If your reasonably sure it's the left rear, how about a loose caliper or caliper bracket?
Differential snubber cushions loose ?.
Strut rod bushings ok?
Loose shock mount/shock absorber?
Hey I'm reaching I admit it, but maybe............
Chuck 32205Comment
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Re: From the bleachers
I'm reaching too, any and all guesses are appreciated.Comment
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Re: From the bleachers
Randy,
Sorry you're still searching for the noise. You've had lots of good advice on things to check.
If your looking for the noise, I suggest that you place the car on jack stands with the rear wheels off the ground so that you can rotate the tires and hear and feel the results. If rotation gives no clues, I would take a good sized rubber hammer and bang around on the tire while listening for the noise.
If that doesn't reveal anything, go under the rear of the car (be sure that the car is safely supported) and bang around with the rubber hammer. Shake the various componets by hand and listen for the noise.
Reread my post about verifing that the strut rod shim washers are in place. The AIM calls them caps; they are placed on each side of the strut rods to keep them tight. They (two per side) must be present to keep the strut rod from moving back and forth.
Good luck and stay safe when you're under the car.
Regards,
GeneComment
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Re: From the bleachers
Gene,
I am still looking for the noise. What you have suggested about raising the car was my next job tomorrow. The strut rod lip washer (ZIP calls them in catalog) are in place. They came with the strut rod camber adjusting bolt kit that I got from ZIP. This has been an exceptionally hard problem to find and it bothers me because I'm afraid something could be dangerous. I'll do some banging around tomorrow and let you know what I find. I hope something.
Thanks to you and all for the suggestions and concern.
RandyComment
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Re: From the bleachers
Randy:
Tell us more about the noise. When do you hear it? Over bumps? On smooth roads? When you apply the brakes? While turning? Is it "cyclical", like a halfshaft u-joint? You stated that you did some work to the front suspension, too. Could the noise be coming from the front?
I don't mean to insult your intelligence with these very obvious proposals, but the more information, the better.
JoeComment
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And the answer is:
After putting her up on jacks and checking around I found the noise to be coming from the left U-joint at the trailing arm side of the half shaft. It clunks at the same spot on each revolution.I am deeply appreciative of all the help I've gotten. As far as insulting my intelligence, you can't. This is my first Corvette that I have tried to do personal work on and it is a learning experience which has been greatly inhanced by all of the help of you NCRS members. I'm truly glad to be a new member here. Thanks to all!!!
RandyComment
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Re: Now be careful!
Randy,
Congratulations on finding your noise. Now a word of caution about replacing the U-joint.
As you probably know, the U-joint must be pressed out of the half shaft and the spindle yoke. The spindle yoke is somewhat fragile and can be bend if it is not properly reinforced.
Some folks bolt the half-shaft yoke onto an old spindle yoke to reinforce it. Others have a plate that they bolt the yoke onto before they begin disassembling the U-joint assembly.
Either works fine, just remember to support it in one of the two manners or you will probably ruin it!
Good luck and good motoring.
Regards,
GeneComment
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Re: Clunking noises
I hope your noise is the ujoint but be aware that when the supension is at full droop on jackstands the ujoints are in a bind and could make a noise when turning if they are a little loose. Try lubing them if they have grease zerts but they should not have any if they are original. A loose shock bushing can make a noise too.Comment
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