My 1964 coupe with A/C and back-up lights keeps blowing the fuse covering the turn signals, brake lights, clock and courtsey lights. I replaced the flasher and that appeared to solve the problem, but a few days later the fuse and flasher fried again. I put in another flasher today and everything works at present, but I'm sure history will repeat itself. I am a little perplexed as to what to do because everything works fine without the flasher installed (except the turns signals of course) and then works fine with the flasher installed for a short time. I am by no means an electrical genius, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. In the meantime, I have an extra flasher and plenty of fuses on hand. I guess I could just go "flasherless" because nobody here in Houston seems to bother with turn signals anyway, but what the hey.
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Re: 1964 Fried Flashers
Hum, original flasher for '64 with B/U lamps came from two vendors (Tung Sol 224 or Signal Stat 145) both rated for driving two lamp loads with appropriate blink rate. If you're using original, non-DOT, TS flasher modules, they DO have a useful lifespan and typically fail open circuit (no blinking and no blown fuses).....
Cars that were equipped with AM/FM radio option, installed a capacitor across the leads of the TS flasher module to thwart switching transients ('doink, doink, doink' noise) from being broadcast into the radio. This capacitor, installed as part of the radio option, was a wax foil device (not known for longevity compared to other capacitor construction technologies) AND the capacitor lead wires were double insulated (vinyl around the wire + fische paper wrapped and stapled over the terminating legs).
The extra fische paper insulation prevented the capacitor's lead wires from making spurious contact with either the metal case of the flasher module OR the metal clip that holds the flasher can. I HAVE seen old/worn noise suppression capacitors make spurious contact due to faulty insulation. But, this typically results in taking the flasher out of the circuit (lamps come on but don't blink)....
Typically, blowing fuses and damaging flasher modules results from dead short circuit conditions (lamp elements shorted to ground pulling too much current). This ususally happens in one of two places:
(A) The tail lamp socket (one or both) is faulty. Can be corroded inside the socket creating a short to ground OR the lamp socket's contact tensioning spring is shot and the short segment of striped lead wire inside the socket isn't 'sucked' into the socket housing far enough. This can wind up making electrical contact to the socket stamping instead of to/through the bulb element).
(B) There's an intermittent short circuit in the TS switch/harness assy that runs down the steering column.
Ususally fault A exhibits itself at random, regardless of whether the TS lamps are flashing or not. Fault B might only surface when the alternate path to the rear lamps (to and through the TS flasher) is engaged.... -
Re: 1964 Fried Flashers
I agree with what Jack has said. I had a somewhat similar problem and it was (B) in Jack's post. Insulation had become worn on one of the wires going down the column. At certain times when applying the brakes, the wire would short out and blow the fuse in the circuit.
Using a continuity tester and some long leads, you should be able to check the continuity of the wires from the passenger compartment back to the tail lamps. It may take a few tries if the problem is intermittent.
Good Luck!Comment
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Re: 1964 Fried Flashers
Mike,
Thanks for the feedback. I noticed earlier that the wires going down the column looked fairly new and were in good shape (prior owner likely replaced the TS switch), so I may I start with the tail lamp sockets (A) in Jack's post and hope that's the problem. These intermittent electrical problems can drive me to drink (like I need an excuse).
Just curious, in your case did the flasher fry as well as the fuse? Jack indicated that there should be a metal clip holding the flasher in place, but mine plugged directly into the fuse panel with no clip in sight. A $1.99 replacement from the local auto parts store seemed to work OK (at least until burn out), but I wonder if the flasher itself may be part of my problem.Comment
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Re: 1964 Fried Flashers
Bruce:
I did not have any problems with the flasher.Comment
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