I NEED TO KNOW SOME OF THE DIFFERENT METHODS OF PUTTING BROACH MARKS ON THE STAMP PAD, I HAVE SEEN MANY THAT LOOK BAD,I LOOKED AT A BLOCK THAT WAS JUST DONE BY A GUY THAT DOES THE COMPLETE DECK SURFACE, THE LINES LOOK VERY CLOSE TOGATHER AND NOT QUITE RIGHT, THIS SEEMS TO BE A SUBJECT NO ONE WANTS TO TALK ABOUT, WHAT DO YOU THINK THIS IS MY FIRST TIME ON THIS OR ANY OTHER FORM.
BLOCK BROACHING
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
john: nobody, to my knowledge, can simulate the original broach marks an a sb or bb engine pad so that it'll pass ALL ncrs judges scrutiny. Rather than spend 300 to 700 frogskins on a broach job that machine shop says will pass our examination, the 38 points you will loose for no or radial braoch marks will be the same deduction you'll receive with a simulated broach job. To fully understand this subject, you ought to team up with mechanical 1 judging team at a regional or national ncrs event and let the judges show you what they are looking for. Another means of understanding pad broach marks is to examine, under micrscopic illumination, a bunch of virgin junk yard sb and bb engine pads. good luck, mike- Top
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
Mike thanks for the responce,in your opinion is it best to stamp the block then lightly deck it and take the 38 point hit?? I look at customers cars and can spot a restamp from 5 feet away, I look at friends duntov cars and 1 out of 4 of them arnt restamps and there pads passed, I have cut several pads off of blocks so I can sit in my easy chair and look at them, I have studyed dozens of chevrolet blocks, I have close up photos of 435 hp 400 hp 390 hp even 2 1971 LS-6 blocks in cars I own, Im not looking to trick anybody just build a restoration motor for my 67 400 air roadster, I have known of the car since it was new and will disclose this when I sell it. I thought there might be some way of replacing broach marks.- Top
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
I know of no way to reproduce broach marks-period. several years ago, i learned that the flint broach was for sale( after the line shut down). i ran it by my local machine shop owner and we toy'd with the idea of buying it . we could have probably bought it for scrap value. then we'd have to have it trucked to maryland. it was a huge machine(saw it when we did the ncrs nationals in Michigan in early 90's). we passed on it. Don't spend a penny more than necessary on the pad to true it up and bite the 38 point bullet. if you're super lucky, you may find an over the counter replacement block that wasn't stamped on its pad by the folks at flint or tonowanda. these cases are then only way i know of to not suffer the 38 point deduct when restoring a vet that's lost its ORIGINAL case.mike- Top
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I agree with the Doc, see, the trouble is...
The guy you sell it to WON'T disclose the replacement. It'l be on eBay next year represented as all original. Any future question will trace back to YOU. I replaced the block in my car many years ago, all it needs is one letter added. I'm NEVER going to do it. I'm too proud of the quality of my work for that- If I stamp the pad, I cannot brag about how I busted my butt getting everything right. Besides, I gotta use a mirror to shave.- Top
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During the pad seminar at Hershey the comment...
was made that re-done broach marks have up to 100 lines/marks per inch. Under magnification-20x-original broach marks show up to 1100 lines/marks per inch.
GOOD LUCK!
Even digital cameras on the judging field reveal this dramatic difference.
HAVE A NICE DAY!- Top
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Re:Courtesy?
I think what he was trying to convey to you was that typing in all CAPS is considered shouting on the computer world. Not trying to start hard feelings. It is just real hard to read in all Caps is the main reason anyone says something to you.
Is there any chance that your original block is just missing and could be setting in someones garage?- Top
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
Interesting John,
Good points and not quite sure why this is a taboo subject to some. Afterall many people divy up counterfeit paint jobs, counterfeit chrome jobs and counterfeit stampings on other parts especially soft metal parts. But I guess people just place a LOT more importance on those #s stamped on a pad than on other stuff that make a car a whole car or perhaps apply a different standard. And as such this one # stamp seems to get the lion's share of attention relative to what I perceive to be it's importance. That's the way it is I suppose.
If I were to purchase another older Corvette for tinkering, driving around or whatever - it will likely NOT have an original motor if at all possible and I'll take the difference all the way to the bank.- Top
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
> But I guess people just place a LOT more importance on those #s
> stamped on a pad than on other stuff that make a car a whole car
> or perhaps apply a different standard.
This is it in a nutshell. The difference between two equal midyears, one with NOM, the other with original engine, can easily be $10,000 and up, depending on what the engine option was.
Which I think is pretty foolish in this day and age of restamps, broaching methods, slipping cars past judges, and so on. Especially since those numbers affect the car in absolutely no way other than judging points and the selling price.- Top
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
Mike: I don't believe "slipping a broached engine pad past an experienced judge" is gonna happen.Restoration pads, ie broach marks unlike the broach mearks that left the factory are gonna cost the car 38 points. If you haven't examined a bunch of real vs resto or restamped pads at an NCRS event in the company of one or more of the clubs knowledgable engine pad guys, suggest you do so. Be glad to help. regards, mike- Top
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Re: BLOCK BROACHING
Not to play the devil's advocate but how do we know how many if any have slipped past or not? Maybe none, a few or a lot - but is it really known? Are we 'that' confident in judging at the regional and above level? Could the ones 'caught' just be the less sophisticated. - just curious - I don't know.
thanks,- Top
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