'Natural' finish and surface protection - NCRS Discussion Boards

'Natural' finish and surface protection

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  • Todd H 26112

    'Natural' finish and surface protection

    THe recent mention of driveshaft finishes sorta begged a question I've had for a while in the back of my mind. Beit driveshafts in early C3s or whatever - there are those pesky parts that are supposed to have 'natural' finish.

    Let's set aside exhaust stuff - what about the other items that may develop surface rust and so forth over time w/o some sort of paint?

    My strong preference is to paint or whatever anything rather than leave it exposed regardless of whether it's correct. It won't fool anybody but what are some recommendations for paints etc. The only thing that quickly comes to mind is something in a shade like 'cast blast' perhaps to perhaps 'approximate' natural metal finishes.

    I'd be curious to hear what various folks do who prefer not to leave metals exposed incorrect though it may be.

    thanks,
  • Craig S.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 1997
    • 2471

    #2
    Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

    Todd - in some cases, I have found Krylon's satin finish clear to be a decent choice, if applied/dusted lightly it looks more original than the paint choices. For instance, after bead cleaning a rear end housing, letting it "age" a bit to rid it of that just bead blast look, followed by the Krylon. Much nicer than cast blast, and a natural cast look. I don't know how a driveshhaft or halfshaft tube would fare with this approach, but I thought I would try it....Craig

    Comment

    • Harmon C.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • August 31, 1994
      • 3228

      #3
      Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

      Todd If the drive shaft has 5 points you will lose a point or two for finish. The half shafts may have 8 points so you would loose 2 or three. This is what I lost when I painted them. Lyle
      Lyle

      Comment

      • Chuck S.
        Expired
        • April 1, 1992
        • 4668

        #4
        Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

        Todd, some people say leave it raw, and continuously treat it with "Pre-Lube 6". Like you, I am not one to be setting myself up for constant maintenance...forget it too long, and you have to start over.

        Some people say that "Cast Blast" will work; frankly, after watching a few chassis judgings, I don't think any opaque paint will fool judges. You can use it, you won't have rust, but it will probably cost you during judging. It's your choice...rust, Or, take your chances. The points lost may be worth not having to deal with rust.

        One other option to consider is misting a light coat of flattened clea (near fully flat, just a little gloss). If you get it too wet or too glossy, it will definitely look painted. One dry coat might avoid deducts; haven't tried it for judging, but I'm "ruminating" on it.

        Comment

        • Kevin M.
          Expired
          • November 1, 2000
          • 1271

          #5
          Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

          Move to California we don't rust out here.

          Kevin

          Comment

          • Jerry Clark

            #6
            Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

            I HATE RUST
            I have a powder coat guy, (yeah, I know, fate worse than death), that will apply a flat clear as lightly covered as is possible. I bring the parts, Differential housing and most cast pieces, back and dust them with glass beads to further flatten whatever sheen may remmain. NO, they do not look "raw" but damned close and like others, I allow the cast pieces to oxidize slightly before PCing
            jer

            Comment

            • Al S.
              Frequent User
              • June 30, 2002
              • 73

              #7
              Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

              I've used "stainless steel" on a daily driver. By all means no coating is correct but I happen to favor that one ovet cast blast on some parts.
              '72 Top Flight Coupe

              Comment

              • Dave K.
                Very Frequent User
                • November 1, 1999
                • 951

                #8
                Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

                I've used Krylon satin clear on my bead blasted 66 rear end case, half shafts, driveshaft, ball joints and all other natural finish parts. It has held up reasonably well.

                Dave Kitch
                33108

                Comment

                • Dick W.
                  Former NCRS Director Region IV
                  • June 30, 1985
                  • 10483

                  #9
                  Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

                  No rust, just burn up or shake apart
                  Dick Whittington

                  Comment

                  • John A.
                    Expired
                    • August 31, 2002
                    • 172

                    #10
                    Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

                    Eastwood has a satin finish clear for coating natural finish parts. I have had problem with parts rusting under the finish after it was applied though. I've tried heating the part before the paint application to remove any remaining moisture and it seems to help. I'll have to try the Krylon product to test for better results.

                    Comment

                    • Harmon C.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • August 31, 1994
                      • 3228

                      #11
                      Re: 'Natural' finish and surface protection

                      John A little rust might just make it appear more original in NCRS circles. Lyle
                      Lyle

                      Comment

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