revisited: Harmonic Balancer

[embarrassed]

Proper installation??

[Chuck G.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

I lubricate the crank snout and the balancer with anti-sieze. Line up the keyway. Place the balancer over the crank snout. Take a long "grade 8" bolt with enough thread and screw it into the crank snout along with several washers of the appropriate size and a nut. As you tighten the nut against the washers, you'll pull the balancer onto the snout. You could also use a length of heavy duty threaded rod, but I always worry about breaking the threaded rod off in the crank snout. That's why I like the grade 8 bolt. It's not advisable to pound it on with a hammer. Hope this helps. Chuck Gongloff

[Chuck G.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

I lubricate the crank snout and the balancer with anti-sieze. Line up the keyway. Place the balancer over the crank snout. Take a long "grade 8" bolt with enough thread and screw it into the crank snout along with several washers of the appropriate size and a nut. As you tighten the nut against the washers, you'll pull the balancer onto the snout. You could also use a length of heavy duty threaded rod, but I always worry about breaking the threaded rod off in the crank snout. That's why I like the grade 8 bolt. It's not advisable to pound it on with a hammer. Hope this helps. Chuck Gongloff

[Gene M.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

I agree with Chuck, that's how I put them on. But I thing you are concerned about low horse power cranks that do not have a threaded hole. These situations require some creative method of reaching the back side of the crank to press the harmonic balance on. A pair of steel bars some chain and a hydraulic cylinder jack works out fine. Don't forget to oil the crank end and bore of harmonic damper as Chuck indicated. I like to spin a wire wheel in the bore to make sure it is clean prior to application of lubrication.

[Gene M.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

I agree with Chuck, that's how I put them on. But I thing you are concerned about low horse power cranks that do not have a threaded hole. These situations require some creative method of reaching the back side of the crank to press the harmonic balance on. A pair of steel bars some chain and a hydraulic cylinder jack works out fine. Don't forget to oil the crank end and bore of harmonic damper as Chuck indicated. I like to spin a wire wheel in the bore to make sure it is clean prior to application of lubrication.

[John H.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

For the older threadless crank nose engines, I thoroughly clean the balancer bore, apply a light coat of anti-seize, line up the keyway, and, using a large socket just larger than the bore of the balancer, drive the balancer on using a large lead hammer (actually a GM knockoff hammer) - this softens the impact and minimizes the "shock". I also use a piece of 2x4 and a wedge between the rear crank flange and the back of the engine stand so the impact force of the lead hammer blows is taken directly at the rear of the crank, not at the thrust bearing face at the rear main. Have done this for years with no problems, but I wouldn't try it with a steel hammer or without the rear of the crank wedged forward against the engine stand to open the thrust face gap to max and hold it there until you're done.

[John H.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

For the older threadless crank nose engines, I thoroughly clean the balancer bore, apply a light coat of anti-seize, line up the keyway, and, using a large socket just larger than the bore of the balancer, drive the balancer on using a large lead hammer (actually a GM knockoff hammer) - this softens the impact and minimizes the "shock". I also use a piece of 2x4 and a wedge between the rear crank flange and the back of the engine stand so the impact force of the lead hammer blows is taken directly at the rear of the crank, not at the thrust bearing face at the rear main. Have done this for years with no problems, but I wouldn't try it with a steel hammer or without the rear of the crank wedged forward against the engine stand to open the thrust face gap to max and hold it there until you're done.

[chester]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

would you use an air impact or manual socket set? jc

[chester]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

would you use an air impact or manual socket set? jc

[John H.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

Air Impacts have no business anywhere near an engine project - use manual wrenches, pay heed to torque specs, and use a torque wrench when buttoning things up.

[John H.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

Air Impacts have no business anywhere near an engine project - use manual wrenches, pay heed to torque specs, and use a torque wrench when buttoning things up.

[chester]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

how would you tell if it's in or not, won't the motor turn if you tighten the bolt? jc

[chester]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

how would you tell if it's in or not, won't the motor turn if you tighten the bolt? jc

[Gene M.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

Use 7/16 fine bolts in flywheel flange to keep crank from turning.

[Gene M.]

Re: revisited: Harmonic Balancer

Use 7/16 fine bolts in flywheel flange to keep crank from turning.