C1 '59: Cooling question part III

[Rob M.]

Dear colleague restorers,

I'm nearly at the point of refilling the cooling section with the greenish cooling fluid. Before I start doing this is there anything I should check/do ?

Until so far I have performed the following actions:
* drained the coolant fluid by emptying and removing the old radiator (so I've got a big stain on my garage floor now)
* installed new heater hoses
* installed new coolant hoses (to the water pump)
* installed rebuild water pump
* used new clamps for the whole circuitry
* installed correct thermostat housing and new gasket
* installed new thermostat (160 degrees)
* installed new radiator
* re-installed a new heater core
* re-installed a new heater valve

Is it now a simple matter of filling the radiator, running the engine for a minute and refilling the radiator, check for leakages and refill the radiator if needed during the first few drives ?

Any advise is appreciated...

greetings,
Rob.

[Wayne P.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Everything sounds good except the 160 degree thermostat. Why not use the correct 180? If you have an over heating problem this won't fix it.

[Duke W.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

I would have used Dexcool of Zerex G-05. Also, you should run a 180 thermostat.

Once the system is near full, start the engine and let it idle. When the thermostat opens the level will likely drop. Add coolant as necessary to bring it to the full level as outlined in your shop manual or owners manual.

Sometimes it takes a few heat cycles for the system to fully purge air, so check the coolant level after the next few cycles until it stabilizes at the proper level.

Duke

[Dave S.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Rob,
I like to fill the system through the thermostat opening. Once the 50/50 mixture is visable then install the thermostat, thermostat housing, and connect the engine side of the upper radiator hose and then fire it up. By doing this you eliminate most of the air that can get trapped in the system by filling it through the radiator w/ the complete system together. I've had my C1 blow off a lower radiator hose due to an "air bound" condition.

[Craig S.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Duke or anyone - I have always used a 180 stat in my 67 L79 KH car, that's A.I.R. with the Holley 3814 vs 3810. Right now, that extra "hole" is plugged on the carb and the pump is not installed. At thet moment, I am triggering the ignition with an MSD 6AL and blater coil with a GM TI distributor, and it runs like a bear. I recently realized that 66 and 67 AIR cars had a 195 vs 180 stat, but I am thinking that without the pump and timing curve for it I should stay with the 180 for now, unless I go back to stock. However, Jerry Luck restored my Holley, so I suppose the jets are stock. Just wondering your thoughts on this setup.....thx......Craig

[John H.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Craig -

I'd stick with a 180* 'stat - the 195* was just one of a number of crude emissions strategies at the time to support the A.I.R. system function (including "ported" vacuum), all of which made the engines run hot at idle.

[Duke W.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

The 195 stat was for emissions, as all non AIR cars continued to receive 180s until all cars had to meet emission standards in 1968. You can use either. I don't think the use of one or the other would cause any change in operating characteristics, or affect carb jetting.

Interestingly, AIR cars ran the normal 12.5:1 idle mixture - same as non-AIR cars unlike later emission control cars that ran much leaner idle mixtures. GM found in their early research that running a "normal" idle mixture reduced tailpipe emissions as long as EGT was high, so the residual HC and CO in the exhaust were highly reactive with the injected air. Early AIR carburetors were calibrated about the same as non-AIR carbs, but calibration production tolerance was tighted up. The high EGT at idle and light load was achieved by modifying the timing map.

They typically had initial timing specified of zero to about 4 degrees ATC, and the centrifugal curve had total advance of about 34 instead of 24. The curve was set up to have a fairly quick ramp up of centrifugal timing from idle to 1500, at which point the total initial plus centrifugal was "normal" - about the same as non-AIR cars.

You should verify your centrifugal curve and if it exhibits the above characteristics, modify it to achieve non-AIR spec. Also, AIR cars typically had ported vacuum advance, and I would modifiy this to achieve vacuum advacne at all times including idle.

Duke

[Doug Flaten]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

I like to pull the strap off of the remote reservoir and while the engine is running, I lift the reservoir up to ensure it is the highest point on the cooling system. The hose running to my expansion tank seems to run downhill slightly and has a little trouble venting the gas to the tank after a complete refill.

[Dave Suesz]

This problem has been solved...

Some makes of thermostat have for some years now had a tiny check valve in the 'stat to allow the escape of this trapped air. All Ford service replacements have them, for instance. Make putting in the coolant go a lot quicker.

[Rob M.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Doug,

I might be wrong but I do believe I don't have a reservoir on my '59...

Anyway, thanks all for you reponse !

greetings,
Rob.




The C1 1959 Corvette Restoration Project

[Jim T.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

One thing I noticed you did not do was remove the block drains on each side of the block for a complete drain of the liquid and sometimes just amazing crud that accumulates at this access. Drain it into a pan and see what you get from each side. With the block drains out you can put in more flush water from the thermostat access. You could also drill a small hole or two small holes in your new thermostat to let the air escape during refill.

[Craig S.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Thx Duke, very helpful post. I don't know my timing map but the distrubutor in there is not mapped for AIR as it was long gone. But I have since installed the correct carb, but not remapped the engine or installed the AIR stuff. It does now pass AZ emissions test (just idle for 67, not loaded testing) after the new Jerry Luck 3814 was installed. Since I have a Snap-On 2261 digital dialback timing light, I have no excuse not to map the curve. Just need to get to it, but it runs great. It is the L79, but not sure if the cam is a true L79 or not, since a prior owner blueprinted the engine and we all know what that means in terms of unknowns. I appreciate your insight...thx!...Craig

[Craig S.]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Thx John - that was my thinking too. It already runs hot when I turn on the AC, but I don't have my new DeWitts Aluminum radiator in yet. It does run down at 180 sometimes but mostly around 190 and up. I have not checked the true temp with IR gun but do have a thermal probe for my Fluke DMM and was going to check the coolant directly at the thermo housing outlet....Craig

[Chas Henderson #28127]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

Jim,
are these plugs on all engines (350)? I need to change my antifreeze and would like to know where to look for them.

Chasman

[Steve Pettit]

Re: C1 '59: Cooling question part III

I agree!! My buddy convinced me to drain the block on my 66 last week, although I was not having any problems and had just refurbished the cooling system and had all brand new coolant in place. I was astounded by the crud that came out of the block drain, in fact we (he) even had to use some compressed air to break loose the sludge on the drivers side.

Regards,
Steve Pettit