Oil pump priming

[Rainer S.]

I am getting ready to fire-up my rebuild 63 Fuelie engine. I primed the oilpump, using a modified S.B. distributor. Oil is pumping up OK, all the way to the pressure point next to the disributor. I do not see any oil coming out from around the valves springs/rockers on the heads. Is that normal ? Should I not see oil coming from around the valve springs, or do they get oil from the pumping action of the valves, after the engine starts ?
Also, any tips on how to prime the (restored) F.I. unit (if required) ?

Rainer

[William C.]

Re: Oil pump priming

Oil will flow thru the pushrods onto the rocker arms to lubricate the rocker balls. The springs are splash lubricated/cooled via the oil thrown off the rocker arms when the engine is running. There was an involved discussion on this about 10 days ago if you check the archives.

[Rainer S.]

Re: Oil pump priming

I followed the postings from last week, thats what made me get a used distributor, turned down the upper cap flange and the gear dia. for clearance on the camshaft. But I am wondering, if its normal, not to see any oil coming out of the lifter rods ? Maybe, the drillmotor I am using (3/8") is too weak When the pressure builds up, the drill slowes right down. But I know I get pressure. Maybe not enough pressure to go up the lifter rod. I will install a press. gage tomorrow. RS

[William C.]

Re: Oil pump priming

It takes some time for the pressure to work thru the lifters and pushrods to get to the top. An alternative is just oil all the rocker ball areas well and don't worry about it as long as you have pressurized the bearings and pre-lubed the camshaft.

[Craig S.]

Re: Oil pump priming

Rainer - I experienced a similar thing on my BB LS6 crate engine with solid piddle valve lifters, it really didn't flow that well at the top on priming. I had lots of moly on the valve tips, but I was using Comp Cams Pro Magnum rocker arms with needle fulcrums so the oiling is far less critical. It oiled fine upon startup. I believe the solid lifter small blocks use edge orifice oiling lifters, so they may be in positions where the oil doesn't flow up well. You should rotate the cranksaft a few turns and stop in different spots while you run the priming tool as well. I suspect all is well, but you need lots of oil for the ball type fulcrums or they will burn, best is to have lots of ARP moly lube on them and you won't have a problem. I believe Joe Ray gave the racers tip also about rotating balls from intake to exhaust after broken in as well....Craig

[Roger Legge]

Re: Oil pump priming

I bought a cheapie mechanical oil pressure gauge and I hook it up and have it in view in the engine compartment. I also use a 1/2" drill instead of a 3/8" drill due to them having more grunt to spin the pump. I watch the oil pressure, run the drill, have a helper rotate the crank about 90 degrees, pause a bit, 90 more degrees, etc. I always make sure I see oil coming from all pushrods and through all rockers (check new ones for any burrs that might block the oil hole). I see about 30 psi on the gauge using a 'regular' speed, older 1/2" drill.

Roger
#36316

[Rainer S.]

Re: Oil pump priming

Thanks everybody. Just the info I needed. I like the idea of turning the crank 90 degrees, and cont priming. Will give it a go with a bigger drill.

Rainer

[Clem Z.]

Re: Oil pump priming

if you did not fill the lifters before you installed them it will take a while to fill them before oil will come out of the push rods. to be on the safe side i always used camshaft breakin compound in the rocker arm balls. after the camshaft breakin make sure you change the oil filter because the molykote will plug the filter once the oil cools off. if you do not have a plugged oil filter bypass you will not know the filter is plugged because the oil filter bypass will alow oil pressure to show on the gauge. make sure you oil the valve springs before start up also as they will get very hot till the oil starts flowing. comp cams sells a product called "spring spray" which sticks to the springs till the oil starts to flow.

[Verle R.]

Re: Oil pump priming

Rainer,

No one responded to your question about priming the FI.

The upper bracket on the fuel meter (passenger side) covers a hole to the fuel bowl. If you remove that bracket you can fill the bowl so you will have fuel available to the high pressure pump when you start cranking. This will help the engine fire without lengthly cranking.

Verle

[Rainer S.]

Re: Oil pump priming

Thanks again, followed your advise and had good pressure coming out of the pushrods.
Verle, thanks for the tip, in ref to the priming of the fuel meter bowl. Did just that, and engine fired up after a few puffs and growls.
Engine is running OK, but for some reason, I can't get the RPM down below 1800/2000. What do you think it is?
I have the baffle in the airmeter unit closed, the hot start baffle, which is operated by the cold enrichment valve, is at the stop pin, but the engine will not slow down. I dont see any vacuum lines not connected. What do you think, keeps me from idling ?
(The F.I unit was calibrated on a car by the restorer).

Rainer

[Verle R.]

Re: Oil pump priming

Rainer,

The choke "hot start baffle" must be open for it to idle down.
It is on fast idle as a cold engine should. If it is installed, adjusted and hooked up properly the choke mechanism will open the choke after a few minutes. If it is not opening by itself it may be adjusted too rich, may not be operating properly or may not be connected.

I believe a 63 should have a steel line from the choke to the left exhaust manifold to provide heat to open the choke. This line should get hot pretty quick.

Push on the fast idle cam on the side of the air meter (toward the front of the engine). You should be able to push the fast idle cam down which will open the choke and reduce the idle speed. If it wants to come back up after the engine is warm you may need to adjust the choke counter clockwise so it will open the choke sooner.

Verle