66 brakes

[John F.]

I recently got my 66 back on the road after rebuilding the brake calipers including adding a rebuilt original master cylinder. I bench bled the master before installing, and followed the manual regarding bleeding, but I still have what I think is a mushy pedal - requires far to much effort to bring the car to a stop - doubt I could ever lock the brakes. I've rebled the whole system just to be sure, but no significant change. Any suggestions?

John Farren

[Joe R.]

Re: 66 brakes

John,

Here are a few simple things to check and do after the car has set overnight.

1. Take a brass hammer and tap on each caliper a few times. This should bring the small bubbles to the top. 2. Make sure there are no bubbles in the MC when you push down slowly on the brake pedal.

If those things don't help check these out:

1. Make sure you have bled both the rear caliper bleed screws. There are two on each caliper. One for each half.

2. Make sure that the bleeder screws on the front are up. Sometimes people confuse the right caliper with the left, etc. They will bolt on but won't bleed correctly as the bleeder is pointed down.

3. Check the rubber hoses for weak spots. Rubber hoses should be replaced at every brake job.

4. Check the MC for a seal with the lip installed backwards.

Following these simple tips will get you good brakes. If not ring again.

Regards,

JR

[John F.]

Re: 66 brakes

JR - thanks for the tips. I will try again and let you know how it comes out.

John

[mike cobine]

Re: 66 brakes

I can't remember what the manual says (I could go look but too much trouble) but one sure-fire way to get pedal is to gravity bleed each caliper and use the other tips given here, too.

Crack a bleeder, let the fluid leak out, and be sure the master cylinder does not go dry during that time. Repeat for each bleeder (six of them - 2 front, 4 rear).

It is slow and monotonous, but it keeps the air out.

[John F.]

Re: 66 brakes

Thanks Mike, I'll try that as well.

John