If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You must be an NCRS member
before you can post: click the Join NCRS link above to join. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I am in process to set the timing and point gap on my 63 Fulie engine. I cannot get much rotation out of my distributor, due to the restriction on the tach/fuelpump cables. Should I be able to rotate the upper distributor,where the cad. plated collar clamp is located ? I loosened the collar, but can't rotate the distributor. It rotates as a whole unit, only 1/4" radially. It does not swivel at the collar. Is it a split design ? Also, I get only 15 degrees dwell angle. I dont want to run engine too much, w/o getting the settings somewhat close, then proceed to cam run-in process.
The upper part of the distributor will move separate from the bottom. The bottom should be tightned down with the clamp so you do not damage the drive cables. The upper is just stuck, it will turn.
How did you get the number "15 degrees" for the dwell?
If you are running points, I normally set them to about .018 with a feeler gage on installation and after it is running check/set with a dwell meter to factory spec of 28-32 deg.
Ranier: its a wonder the old 360 fired with only 15 degrees of dwell. shoot for 30 degrees or set points at 16 thousands with a feeler gauge then fine tune points dwell at 30 degrees with dwell meter..The upper half of distrib. will rotate on lower half if the collar is loose. shoot for about 36 degrees total advance.
The lower half of an FI dist is NOT supposed to move at all. It has a notch which is supposed to fit into a pin on the spacer which goes between the dist housing and the intake manifold. When clamped down, it is supposed to remain fixed in place. All of the timing adjustment is done by loosening the clamp around the upper/lower housing and rotating the upper housing. As already mentioned, it is stuck, this is common after being clamped together for many years. Loosen the clamp, gently tap the upper housing and it will come loose so that you can rotate it. Most of the old time tune up mechanics always suggested that the most ideal dwell was about 31deg. Even though the range is 28-32, the optimum is closer to 32, thus, 31 was the goal. I've converted ALL of my point type distributors to PerTronix and no longer have to mess with setting points.
I will try to move my distributor tomorrow.
I had set the points to approx .018" gap, when I had the distributor on the bench, I am beginning to question my dwell meter. It may be bad. Its more than 20 years old, and so is my strobe light. Have not used those instruments for a while, since with new cars, tune-ups are a thing of the past.
I am considdering to go to electr. ignition down the road. For now, I will make this car run with the original stuff.
Thanks for you help.
We use cookies to deliver our services, and to analyze site activity. We do not share or sell any personal information about our users. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment