Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

[Michael H.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

Without a lift I wouldn't attempt this repair. There are two primary areas of difficulty in this type of repair. First, getting the trailing arms out is no simple matter, even though on paper it looks easy. Second, removing the spindle from the housing is even harder. Trying to remove the spindle with the trailing arm still installed can be enormously frustrating, and screw or slide hammer tools are seldom up to the task. Besides, if the bearings need replacing, no doubt the bushings are shot also.

I designed a tool from steel plate and threaded rod for use with a hydraulic press that is easy, safe and reliable. E-mail me at mghaluska@aol.com and I can send you a photo of the tool.

I also recommend taking the spindle to a machine shop and have the shaft turned so the INNER BEARING is a slip fit. This will simplify removal next time while not adversely affecting the service life of the bearing.

[John G.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

Thanks Joe for your reply. I checked out the Bairs website and it seems they have all the necessary goodies to effect any needed repair using new components. I don't know if I'd really be all that comfy with 'reconditioned' threads, either, all things considered. I didn't know if that might be something of a generally accepted method of repair, or not.

I see Bairs offers Timkin bearings too. Seems a lot of stuff comes from China nowadays. Not to slam 'em, or anything; maybe they put out a good product .. .. I really don't know. .?. I would feel better going with the Timkin bearings since they've been around a long time. For all I know those Timkin bearings could be made overseas now too .. ? ..

With repect to the 63-64 spindle compared to 65-82 spindle. Is there a real difference between the two .. ? .. Or is the 63-64 type spindle more 'correct' looking .. ? ..

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

John-----

The Chinese products have improved markedly over the past 10 years. I'd still be reluctant to use their bearings, but I expect that they're good. The Timkens you get today will likely be manufactured in Brazil. That seems to be where they've shifted production of most of these old bearing part numbers. Still, I feel confident that they're up to normal Timken standards.

The 63-64 and 65-82 rear spindles are different. I didn't think that they were interchangeable but, apparently, folks have interchanged them with no apparent functional problems created. The part that makes me wonder, though, is if the pieces are functionally interchangeable, then why didn't GMSPO just consolidate them into one part number a long time ago? Also, why didn't they specify the 65-82 as a replacement for the 63-64 when that part was discontinued?

[Timothy B.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

You should also check out www.fastcorvette.com. They seem to have everything needed for rear bearing as kits with good prices. I haven't ordered from them yet, but I did trade emails with them and they are very helpful.

[John G.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

Interesting point, Joe. Seems the 'difference' isn't enough to preclude using the later style spindle in the 63-64 housing. ? ..

Thanks Tim for providing another source ..

[frank mccracken]

Re: Fast Corvette

Tim, I would also like to hear some feedback about "Fast Corvette". I traded emails with them as well and liked what I saw. Looks like excellent quality and fair prices. I think I'm about to order a couple of diff side yokes and a spindle from them.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Fast Corvette

Well I just ordered some rubber brake lines, so I will see how that goes.

[Frank H.]

Re: Rear Bearings -63-64drum ,alignment

A publication I read years ago stated that the rear bearings didn't need to be press fit to the spindle on disc brake cars ,since if the nut/threads or drive flange failed or the axle broke the caliper prevented the rotor/axle/wheel/tire from coming off,but this is not the case on drum brake cars,They should remain press fit for added protection, since nothing else retains the tire/wheel of 63-65 drum brake cars

You can look at your front A-frame bushings to get an idea what the trailing arm bushings would looks like,it requires a special press to crimp one end of the inner sleeve with end washers on the stock rubber type.

Measuring rear toe before and after T/A service
can improves your odds the they are in adjustable range,

It should all be included at a Chevrolet dealer in their alignment

You can use a string tied to the frame behind the rear tire then ran across the axis(center cap) across the sidewalls of the rear tire and front tire and pull tight and tie on frame,by turning the front tire out then in with your hands until the back sidewall of front tire just touches the string( zero front toe) now measure distance from the front sidewall of the rear tire to the string ,this is your rear toe.do the same to the other side.

Note the shim packs thickness and location for reinstallation

camber adjustment can be checked that it will adjust to zero and slightly each way pos and neg while acquiring desired toe-in using string.
the correct setting for toe can be at the extreme camber setting often close or at the end of camber adjustment(will go pos, zero ,but not neg),given a little wear(on the new strut rod bushings) the next time it will be out of range to adjust ,so a small shim adjustment done now with the toe shims will put you in or closer to the middle of the camber/toe adjustment range never needing future shim adjustments.

Last car I set up like this the only adjustments they made during the alignment where front toe and rear toe/camber

Over the years I've noted many cars at Bloomington and such that the wheels were not even closely aligned rears being toed out ,way neg camber, fronts neg camber.

[Jeff A.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

They make a bearing greaser which is available from the catalogs. It is a hard plastic unit which has a grease fitting at one end. The fitting take 7-9 pumps of high temp wheel bearing grease (available a local auto parts places ) and injects it at the far end from the fitting.

To get the greaser on, it is necessary to take the half shaft flange off and put the half shaft out of the way. Next you undo the spindle flange cotter pin and nut. It may take a breaker bar to get the spindle nut free as it is torqued to 100 lbs. The grease is then inserted and the spindle nut lightly tightened onto it. Then you pump the grease and remove the unit. Then you replace the spindle nut, cotter oin and the half shaft flange. The half shat bolts are torqued to 4o lbs and the replacement looks are still available from Chevy in packages of 5.

[Jim T.]

Re: Rear wheel bearings - should I try it??

I bought one of these inner bearing greasers back in 1975. It is still in like new condition becasue I have never used it on my original owner 68 and 70 Corvettes. I bought the special tools required to do both inner and outer bearings after removal.

[John G.]

Re: Fast Corvette

It's my understanding that Timken bearings is now owned by a Chinese company and are also now made in China .. ? .. Doesn't seem like there'd much much debate about using Chinese made bearings .. They sure have made major inroads into a lot of formerly American made products . .