Road "ding" repair?

[Tom Spurgeon]

We're at the point of re-assembly of our 1960 project. Can't thank you all enough for the advice and opinions you've all shared. As we continue to collect parts, we need to make a decision. Many of the parts we find have experienced "a lot" of road damage. Specifically, gravel dings to the rear end, driveshaft, etc. As we are building her with the expressed purpose of a drive/show car, should we take the time to "fill" the dings. Since the car is completely apart, now would be the time to do it -if we do. My dilema is how it will look painted (currently, it will look like a badly nicked-up drive train, with a great finish). Again, just looking for opinions and like always, your opinions are greatly valued! Thanks again in advance.
Tom Spurgeon

[Gene M.]

Re: Road "ding" repair?

Tom,
What do you mean by road dings? I assume you are speaking of small chips in the painted surfaces. These parts can be bead or sand blasted to remove the paint giving a clean metal surface to start with. If you identifing the pitting as chips then a surface filler is need to make the metal "flat" again. In any case use a catalized primer and paint for more durability. Urethane or epoxy based finishes will give the most protection but not pass NCRS judging as they have too much build up and too shiny in the standard application.

[Tom Spurgeon]

Thank you Gene -what about. . .

The metal I'm refering to is the actual rear end and driveshaft. As well as the front end sub frame (suspension). As the car (metal) travels more toward the rear of the car, the more damage and "extensive" the dings and dents are in the metal. While I know I can "fill" the metal's rough surface, would you offer some advice on the process itself. In other words, if I showed up in Eureka Springs, AR. with a beautiful 1960 Corvette that you couldn't begin to stick a magnet to the driveshaft or rear end (for all the filler) would it be seen as "false". And, since the event in Eureka is not a sanctioned NCRS event (as far as judging), I'm more concerned about finding the best balance between appearance and acceptable (at the local show level). Again, it's more about opinion than anything. I do appreciate the input.
Thank you again,
Tom

[george romano]

Re: Thank you Gene -what about. . .

Tom--

If there is any damage to the driveshaft I'd replace it instead of trying to repair it.

George

[Lee Boyer]

Re: Road "ding" repair?

Tom I would look very careful at these parts, it sounds more like rust than stone chips. if the drive shaft is rusted at the front and tail where it is welded, to the point of filler i would seriesly concider another. I own a 61 and bang a few gears now and then and shurely wouldn"t want it to come apart, If you have any dent"s in it, it will probably vibrate which causes other problems.(bearing"s in rear and tail of trans to mention a few) All that set aside a good coat of paint would be suficiant how many people are going to look under it. They make a spray filler that should take care of most small chips and pits.

[Gene M.]

Re: Thank you Gene -what about. . .

Tom,
Sounds as if you have more pitting due to rust in the steel and cast chassis components. I do not believe they are beyond cosmetic repair with heavy filler paints. The drive shaft as stated, needs to retain balance so get a new one since they are cheap. Local shops also make copies of your original. The real test is the brake backing plates as these get thin and become useless. Also sanding them is a real treat. I'm not sure if passenger car's backing plates are identical to Vettes. But there are a lot of people converting to aftermarket disc so they should become more plentiful. The rear end center section is not recomended to put on a heavy build up of fillers since the temperature will hinder adhesion with time. The frame is a definate
"fixer up" with fillers and blocking to achieve a smooth steel look. The only areas to be aware of is adjacent to the exhaust system. Again heat is the enemy.