I have 1964 roadster and it runs great until I place the heat shield over the coil and dist. then it won`t start. it`s shorting out somewhere but i can`t find it, any ideas would be great thanks jerry
C2 heat shielding
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Re: C2 heat shielding
It's probably grounding the coil/cap wire through the insulation. Try another wire or re-route it. Look at the wire coming from the resistor to the coil and make sure the insulation is not chafed and shorting there.
I'm not sure if your car requires 90 degree terminals at the cap but if it does and you have the straight ones it will add to your problem.- Top
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Re: C2 heat shielding
You can buy it and the appropriate rivits thru the major repro houses. One thing ito watch is that the '64 used metal rivits to maintain the insulator, '65 and up used plastic rivetsBill Clupper #618- Top
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Re: C2 heat shielding
My 63 was missing the top of the sheilding. I installed it and went to start the car and toasted the wire from the coil to the starter motor. It was easy to correct that problem I just rotated the coil so the connections were parallel to the sheilding. Replacing the wire in the harness was much more difficult.- Top
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Re: C2 heat shielding
Jerry -
Bob makes an excellent point - I've seen more than one C1/C2 Corvette fry the engine harness because the coil (+) terminal wire spade touched the inside of the upper ignition shield (the rear vertical wall, not the top), creating a dead short to ground. Make sure your coil is oriented in the bracket so the (+) wire terminal can't contact the inside of the shield, and check your coil-to-distributor cap secondary wire for deterioration/cracks or corrosion at the end terminals. It also pays to add a fusible link to the main power feed wire at the big stud on the starter solenoid on pre-'67 cars to protect the harness in the event of a dead short.- Top
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Re: C2 heat shielding
Bruce,
I bought a ignition shield repair kit from Paragon for around $18. It includes the polyethene plastic shield for the top underside of the shield, 5 metal rivets, 5 plastic rivets and the grounding clip on the front side.
I reused my plastic old shield and have the new plastic shield and 5 plastic rivets left over. If you can use these email a snail mail address and I'll mail them to you.
tc- Top
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Re: C2 heat shielding
Tracy,
That's mighty nice of you--I appreciate the gesture. Honestly, I have not had a chance to examine my shield yet for the plastic part. I'm 90% sure it's not there, but I never specifically looked for it before.
You mentioned a grounding clip. I'm assuming this the the metal clip about 1" long riveted on the front of the shield. I always wondered what this was for. Should this be in contact with some part of the engine or a bracket or perhaps a wire? Probably a stupid question, but I'm a "virgin" 'vette owner and a little clueless at times.
Thanks again for your generous offer. I will definitely take you up on it if my plastic piece is missing.
Bruce- Top
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Re: Fusable Likk?
No, not a fuse - a fusible link wire on the main power feed wire that connects at the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid; this is a 10 or 12-ga. wire (depending on the year) that feeds power to the whole car from the horn relay bus, and had NO circuit protection until a fusible link was added at the starter solenoid end in 1967. It needs a 16-ga. fusible link if it's a 12-ga. wire, or a 14-ga. link if it's a 10-ga. wire, etc. In the event of a dead short, the fusible link fails instead of frying the engine harness all the way from the starter to the ignition switch.- Top
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