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Frame Prep/Paint

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  • Timothy B.
    Very Frequent User
    • January 1, 2004
    • 438

    #16
    Re: Frame Prep/Paint

    Mark,

    I have been using POR-15 over the last 3 years on my 67 frame and many other parts while performing the same kind of restoration you describe. I swear by it. I won't use anything else. I find it easy to apply and easy to get a good finish when you do it the right way. It CAN be topcoated with many different paints as long as you apply a dust coat of the other paint while POR-15 is still tacky. POR-15 is slow drying, so I find that it is easy to paint a fairly large area with a brush and then perform the dust coat with a topcoat. Once the proper drying time has passed, then you can apply another more complete coat of the topcoat to the dust coat you started with. For areas that the sun don't shine, I use POR-15 by itself with great success. The POR-15 company makes a chassis coat paint that can be painted right over POR-15 primer even after it dries, but you can save money and use just about any paint when applied in the manner above.

    I find that the durability of POR-15 is incredible. It is like powdercoat. I have painted brackets and the like and I think it works great. I have accidentally slipped when using a sander under the hood and hit the POR-15 coated frame and unlike other paints, it just scuffs the surface. It flows out great with a bruch when you apply it correctly and creates a nice finish.

    POR-15 dries by exposure to moisture in the air, which is different that most paints. This means that once you open the can, you won't have much shelf life. There is a secret that the Texas Distributor told me about at one of the Houston Vette Expos (he is there every year by the way) that works great. The secrete is to never open the can!! You get two small self tapping sheet metal screws and punch two holes in the can. One in the top near the edge, and the other in the top of the side opposite the hole int he top. Be careful when the can is full as the paint will run out! Pour the paint that you need from the small hole is the side into a container. Immediately screw the screws into the small holes you created, and tip the can to seal them with POR-15. The can will keep almost indefinitely this way, using only what you need at a time.

    Email me if you have more questions.

    Tim Bond
    Houston.

    Comment

    • Craig S.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • June 30, 1997
      • 2471

      #17
      Re: Frame Prep/Paint

      Mark - I have heard of frequent use of DP 90 epoxy primer under the topcoat chassis black for corrosion protection, that would be my choice, but I haven't tried it myself...Craig

      Comment

      • Chuck S.
        Expired
        • April 1, 1992
        • 4668

        #18
        Re: Frame Prep/Paint

        Craig, any of the PPG epoxy primers like DP90LF would also have been my choice for superior corrosion protection, but the problem is they need to be applied to clean, bare steel. If Mark can get it down to near white metal with a portable sand blaster, then DP90LF would definitely be the way to go.

        Comment

        • Bill B.
          Expired
          • September 30, 2002
          • 351

          #19
          Re: Frame Prep/Paint

          Another vote for DP90. I have used it extensively on my 58 chassis items and I love it! I also saw a sample painted thin metal piece with one of the "chassis surfacers for rust" (not POR15) and I hated the looks of the finish--just looked real phony. It was an extremely hard, non-removalable appearing, perfaectly smooth gloss black. Even if topcoated with an emamel top coat it would not be what I would want. I found the DP90 to be very easy to use to get excellent results.

          Comment

          • John A.
            Expired
            • August 31, 2002
            • 172

            #20
            Re: Frame Prep/Paint

            Check out this link.... Good real world tesing info. Plus, it comes in a spray can!

            Comment

            • John A.
              Expired
              • August 31, 2002
              • 172

              #21
              Re: Frame Prep/Paint

              Bill,

              Just curious, in your past applications of DP90, did you apply a top coat? What paint did you use? ... wondering if anyone has used a Delron top coat and what did they flatten it too...

              Thanks

              Comment

              • Chuck S.
                Expired
                • April 1, 1992
                • 4668

                #22
                Re: Frame Prep/Paint

                John, I think you are asking about Deltron (DAU) acrylic urethane color. Deltron (DAU) is flattened with DX685 Flattening Agent. In spite of detailed product info sheets, you will find that mixing the exact gloss level will be a trial and error process with DX685; you'll have to precisely mix, record, and spray samples until you get what you want.

                DAU CAN BE applied over DP90LF, and provides a superior coating system if topcoated within 24 hours (preferable) and no more than one week(?). DP90LF and DAU chemically bond (not dependent on mechanical bond like other paints); no sanding is necessary if the DP90LF is top coated within the specified time. If fact, you shouldn't get in the position of sanding DP90LF because it doesn't sand very well at all; it doesn't make dust, it just gums up and rolls into little balls. If you wait more than the specified time, you'll have to scuff the DP90LF and spray a fresh coat.

                On C3s, DP90 is not quite the right gloss for the frame. For the purist, topcoating with flattened DAU is the way to get an exact gloss match. On C2s, I understand the old DP90 was an exact gloss match when used with the DP402 fast catalyst, but I don't believe you can find the DP90 everywhere anymore. I haven't used the new DP90LF product yet, but I expect the gloss will be about the same as the old DP90.

                Check out the PPG product sheets on AutoBodyDepot.com...those product sheets have everything you need to know about preparation, mixing, and application.




                AutoBodyDepot.com

                Comment

                • Chuck S.
                  Expired
                  • April 1, 1992
                  • 4668

                  #23
                  P.S. Important Additional Info...

                  If you are spraying catalyzed paints (DP90LF, DAU) in your home garage, I highly, highly recommend that you spring for a small supplied air system with a hood. DO NOT take the warnings on the cans lightly; the manufacturers, while trying to cover their backside, ARE NOT KIDDING...this stuff can ruin your health. The few hundred bucks you'll spend on a fresh air system would barely cover your hospital room the first night.

                  Comment

                  • Bill B.
                    Expired
                    • September 30, 2002
                    • 351

                    #24
                    Re: Frame Prep/Paint

                    John, I am actually struggling with do I even want to apply a top coat right now? I just have not decided yet. Glad Chuck weighed in and he sounds like he has been there, done that so good info from him. In my case, my chassis will have been sitting for couple of years so I really should scuff mine up and reshot DP90LF should I decide to topcoat--just don't think I will however. Remember, mine is a C!. Suspect sheen/gloss etc are pretty close on mine. I don't know about the other era's Not sure on this, but think I read somewhere that you can thin the DP90LP with lacquer and get a little more gloss --CHECK THIS OUT WITH OTHERS BEFORE TRYING! i HAVE NOT PERSONALLY DONE IT!

                    Comment

                    • Timothy B.
                      Very Frequent User
                      • January 1, 2004
                      • 438

                      #25
                      Re: Frame Prep/Paint

                      Thanks for the link. I will have to try the Eastwood product. I do agree that POR15 requires careful prep, but for me once I learned what that is it hasn't been a problem. But, I do also think that a product that is easier to apply without the UV sensivity would be a plus. $17 for a spray can seem a bit steep if you ask me.

                      Comment

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