I'm having some problems re-installing the motor in my '64 roadster. I've got the motor in the engine compartment, lined up with the transmission shaft, and the bolt holes are aligned with the bellhousing. It's pretty much installed except I can't get it in that last little bit(about an inch) to mate the motor to the bellhousing. I've been rocking it back and forth to get it in as well as jacking up the motor and bellhousing at different levels to help them line up but I can't seem to get it that last little bit. Before installation I used a clutch alignment tool to make sure the spline area was aligned and free, and everything seems perfect, I just can't figure out what could be keeping it from going in. I've also got the motor on a hoist to try lifting the front or back but every time I try it seems to pull the motor farther away from the bellhousing. Any suggestions as to what could be hanging up or tricks to close that final inch gap would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Re: C2 engine install
Joe,
Even though the clutch disc looked aligned it probably wasn't. Put some long bolts in the bellhousing to hold the motor at the 1 inch. Hook up the clutch and depress. It will fall into the correct position every time.
Been there-done that!
Regards,
JR -
Joe Ray has HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD!
But whatever you do, do not be tempted to pull the engine and transmission together by tightening the bellhousing bolts. Just run them until they touch and the bellhousing is square to the engine block and depress the clutch pedal.Comment
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Re: Joe Ray has HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD!
Nothing better than an original input shaft to line the clutch disc up. The last plastic aligning tool I used was a POS.
BLComment
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Re: C2 engine install
I had the exact situation 2 weeks ago, installing my engine and transmission on my chassis with the body off. Lower the engine to its' normal height and angle and have the transmission loose on its' mount, at its' normal angle. Originally I had the engine at an angle I thought would make it easier to join the two, but it was counterproductive. I finally lowered the engine to its' normal height and it joined easily with the transmission, which was at its' normal angle as well. Let the engine mounts settle into the frame and loosely install the engine mount to frame bolts. That will help achieve the angle you need.Comment
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Re: C2 engine install
Thanks for the advice. I'll get some longer bolts to hold the engine and bellhousing in alignment. Since the two are not mated yet, I can't hook up the clutch linkage. Will I be able to get the same result by pushing backwards on the clutch fork by hand? Also, should the engine slip into place with ease or will I have to really force it back? Thanks again.Comment
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Re: C2 engine install
when everything lines up right, she will slip back the last inch with very little force. I hung the 4spd off my engine before installation, with everything out in the open, and it still took the better part of 2 hours to get it lined up and good to go. In the end I had to take off the clutch and re-align it with the transmission shaft - sans bellhousing - to get it to work. The plastic alignment tool that comes with the clutch isn't worth anything.Comment
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Re: C2 engine install
next time you're at a junk yard or tranny rebuild shop, get a wasted input shaft out of a t-=10 or muncie or a 55-64 chevy 3 speed. the real mccay aligns better than the disposable plastic alignment POS that comes with most clutch/press plate assemblies. mikeComment
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Re: C2 engine install
Ed Hartnett has the original input shafts already cut off for both 10 and 26 spline and sells them for $6 a pop, picked up one of each last summer at Carlisle...CraigComment
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Re: C2 engine install
do you have an email address or weblink for him? Thanks.Comment
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Why can't they just make the plastic 1 right ??? *NM*
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Re: C2 engine install
Here's a trick that always worked great for me. Buy a long piece of threaded rod, say 3', from your local hardware store that is the same thread size as the trans mounting bolts. Cut the rod into 8" or so lengths and screw these into the bellhousing. Push the trans onto the rods and
the angle will be just right. With the trans supported at the right angle, its easy to see if the shaft is aligned properly with the clutch disc. After the tranmission is properly in place, just unscrew the rods and screw in the bolts. The rods make installing the transmission an easy one-man operation. Worked everytime for me, even with a plastic POS alignment tool. Usually the wrong angle causes the problem, not disc alignment. You might have to rotate the end shaft a little to line up the splines properly.
Good luck!
BruceComment
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Re: Joe Ray has HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD!
Lots of good suggestions here, including hanging the transmission from studs.
But in all my years of transmission replacement, the line it up and hit the clutch method still works the best every time. Trans goes in place like a homesick angel. Learned this trick by accident in the mid 60's. Had a talent for knocking the brass rings out of old Chevy three speed syncho blocks (remember paying $10.01 for synchro blocks at Mitchners' GMC parts in Wilmington, Del.)
MikeComment
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