Courtesy Lights

[Mark Hedberg]

I've reviewed the archives posts on this subject and did not see this issue addressed. The under dash courtesy lights on my '64 convertible "work" in that they trun off when the plunger button is depressed and they light up when it is released. Unfortunately, the door hinge won't push the plunger in enough to turn them off. Is there an adjustment that can be made to the switch internally? (Nothing obvious here on inspection) The only other option I can think of is a washer or two on the switch to build it out far enough for the door to depress it.

Additionally, I can't find the rear compartment light at all. Where is it supposed to be? Where is the switch? How is the wiring harness routed?

Thanks.

Mark Hedberg

[Bill Clupper]

Re: Courtesy Lights

On the switch problem, i would pull the switch out of the car & check it for proper length. Some switches are adjustable in length via a sleeve that slides the assembly inside the nut. I can't remember if the Corvette works that way or not. try to check the dimensions against a known "good" switch for comparision. As for the rear compartment light, it works off the same switches as the underdash ctsy lights. It is hig on the rear wall of the top storage compartment, and can't be seen if the top is down. same lamp unit as a coupe, just different location.

[Bill Clupper]

Re: Courtesy Lights

On the switch problem, i would pull the switch out of the car & check it for proper length. Some switches are adjustable in length via a sleeve that slides the assembly inside the nut. I can't remember if the Corvette works that way or not. try to check the dimensions against a known "good" switch for comparision. As for the rear compartment light, it works off the same switches as the underdash ctsy lights. It is hig on the rear wall of the top storage compartment, and can't be seen if the top is down. same lamp unit as a coupe, just different location.

[Tom B.]

Re: Courtesy Lights

Mark,

The threaded holes that the door-switch screws into is where I have made my adjustments for length before. Fortunately the threaded holes have been "tight" enough for me to make a fine adjustment without the switch coming loose. If that is not the case for you, the quick fix would be your washer solution, but Bill's would be more correct.

Also, I too have seen a "variety" of lengths/styles for various years in the catalogs. You might want to determine if yours are originals or possibly an "incorrect" length for another year. Tom #24014

[Tom B.]

Re: Courtesy Lights

Mark,

The threaded holes that the door-switch screws into is where I have made my adjustments for length before. Fortunately the threaded holes have been "tight" enough for me to make a fine adjustment without the switch coming loose. If that is not the case for you, the quick fix would be your washer solution, but Bill's would be more correct.

Also, I too have seen a "variety" of lengths/styles for various years in the catalogs. You might want to determine if yours are originals or possibly an "incorrect" length for another year. Tom #24014

[Tom B.]

Hole method/Word of caution

Mark,

In addition, someone with greater knowledge could tell me (or us) whether or not the adjustments were made this way or not at the factory.

I haven't had a problem doing it this way, as mentioned, but took enough caution to not lenghten (unscrew) the switch TOO MUCH. As you will notice, there is only a given amount of room (length) and too much length will surely bend/smash the switch. Just a word of caution. Tom #24014

[Tom B.]

Hole method/Word of caution

Mark,

In addition, someone with greater knowledge could tell me (or us) whether or not the adjustments were made this way or not at the factory.

I haven't had a problem doing it this way, as mentioned, but took enough caution to not lenghten (unscrew) the switch TOO MUCH. As you will notice, there is only a given amount of room (length) and too much length will surely bend/smash the switch. Just a word of caution. Tom #24014

[John Rohe]

Re: Courtesy Lights

Mark,

I replaced my courtesy light/door jamb switches with units from Long Island Corvette and had no problem. These go for $10 a piece. Maybe yours had been changed at one point with incorrect units.

As for the back light, there should be 1 orange and 1 white wire going back to it just as to the ones under the dash. The light should be mounted just behind where the convertible top door hinges - about in the middle.

Good luck. John R. #31818

[John Rohe]

Re: Courtesy Lights

Mark,

I replaced my courtesy light/door jamb switches with units from Long Island Corvette and had no problem. These go for $10 a piece. Maybe yours had been changed at one point with incorrect units.

As for the back light, there should be 1 orange and 1 white wire going back to it just as to the ones under the dash. The light should be mounted just behind where the convertible top door hinges - about in the middle.

Good luck. John R. #31818

[Chuck G.]

Re: Hole method/Word of caution

Also, be careful "unscrewing" the switch, as you will surely twist the wires if you're not careful. Hope this helps. Chuck

[Chuck G.]

Re: Hole method/Word of caution

Also, be careful "unscrewing" the switch, as you will surely twist the wires if you're not careful. Hope this helps. Chuck

[Fred Oliva]

Re: Courtesy Lights

Mark,

I seem to remember that these switches were 'self seeking'. What I mean by this is that the plunger itself was lightly pressed into another part of the switch. When they installed the switch at the factory & closed the door, the plunger would move in the body & adjust itself. I discovered this when I restored my own '64 -- it had the original switches.

Now, it's been a while since I addressed this on my car so maybe someone else can confirm this. However, I'm pretty sure that if you remove your switches you will clearly see how this works.

As for repro switches, I don't know if they have the same appearance as the originals, or if this is important to you. For me, I'd rather us an original switch -- even if it's a little worse for wear.

Hope this helps..

Fred O

[Fred Oliva]

Re: Courtesy Lights

Mark,

I seem to remember that these switches were 'self seeking'. What I mean by this is that the plunger itself was lightly pressed into another part of the switch. When they installed the switch at the factory & closed the door, the plunger would move in the body & adjust itself. I discovered this when I restored my own '64 -- it had the original switches.

Now, it's been a while since I addressed this on my car so maybe someone else can confirm this. However, I'm pretty sure that if you remove your switches you will clearly see how this works.

As for repro switches, I don't know if they have the same appearance as the originals, or if this is important to you. For me, I'd rather us an original switch -- even if it's a little worse for wear.

Hope this helps..

Fred O

[John H.]

Self-Adjusting Jamb Switches

The only "adjustment" performed at the factory was to close the door; the switches are self-adjusting, in that the tubular end section that contains the switch plunger actually moves inside the threaded nut (which is not self-evident unless you're familiar with jamb switches). This movement only happens once, the first time the door is closed after the switch is (fully) threaded into the pillar hole. If you will put the switch in a vise, you'll find that you can "un-adjust" the switch by moving the plunger tube relative to the machined nut - then you can re-install in the pillar, and shut the door to make the "adjustment" again.

[John H.]

Self-Adjusting Jamb Switches

The only "adjustment" performed at the factory was to close the door; the switches are self-adjusting, in that the tubular end section that contains the switch plunger actually moves inside the threaded nut (which is not self-evident unless you're familiar with jamb switches). This movement only happens once, the first time the door is closed after the switch is (fully) threaded into the pillar hole. If you will put the switch in a vise, you'll find that you can "un-adjust" the switch by moving the plunger tube relative to the machined nut - then you can re-install in the pillar, and shut the door to make the "adjustment" again.