I have a 76 stringray that I just purchased a little over a month ago I smell gas around the rear of car but I am not losting gas any where anyone have any ideals. The VIN indicates that the engine should be a 350/4 180 4 speed. Prior ower replace with Jasper engine. Called them they indicated that "It was the correct engine for that auto". Boy that told me a lot. This system does not have the AIR injection system in place. Lucy for me Maryland has a moving year for emission. Only car 1977 and after have to go to emission at this time. Can anyone help?
Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
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Re: Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
Two years ago I had the same subtle smell of gas around the car, usually near the rear. I decided to do some fiberglass repair at the exhaust area and as a result I pulled the spare tire carrier and gas tank for good accesability. My tank was leaking where it sat on the cross support bars. The smell was coming from where the gas had been absorbed by the anti-squeek material. The leak was so tiny that I never noticed a drop of gas on the floor. Needless to say I was happy that I had pulled my tank.- Top
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Re: Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
Two years ago I had the same subtle smell of gas around the car, usually near the rear. I decided to do some fiberglass repair at the exhaust area and as a result I pulled the spare tire carrier and gas tank for good accesability. My tank was leaking where it sat on the cross support bars. The smell was coming from where the gas had been absorbed by the anti-squeek material. The leak was so tiny that I never noticed a drop of gas on the floor. Needless to say I was happy that I had pulled my tank.- Top
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Re: Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
Al,
I've had the bad cap scenario on one car, the leaking tank on another. Both are viable.
To help with your motor, check the stampings on the front engine pad, just ahead and below the passenger cylinder head. This may still have original stampings, in which case you could see how Chevrolet built it. Of course, that means little if Jasper changed the internals.
To check displacement, find the casting number and date on the rear flange of the block near the bellhousing. This can be checked and verified elsewhere to see what size the engine should have been originally.
Your best bet is if you have a receipt from Jasper that would let you contact them with an exact engine or job number, etc so that they could give you more specifics. I would assume that for warranty reasons, they know what they put in each motor. Then again...
Good Luck
PatrickVice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.- Top
Comment
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Re: Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
Al,
I've had the bad cap scenario on one car, the leaking tank on another. Both are viable.
To help with your motor, check the stampings on the front engine pad, just ahead and below the passenger cylinder head. This may still have original stampings, in which case you could see how Chevrolet built it. Of course, that means little if Jasper changed the internals.
To check displacement, find the casting number and date on the rear flange of the block near the bellhousing. This can be checked and verified elsewhere to see what size the engine should have been originally.
Your best bet is if you have a receipt from Jasper that would let you contact them with an exact engine or job number, etc so that they could give you more specifics. I would assume that for warranty reasons, they know what they put in each motor. Then again...
Good Luck
PatrickVice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.- Top
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Re: Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
You've been given good advice by others for spot checks. FORGET the engine and FIND the source of the gas fumes you smell!!!! This is a safety issue that can be threat to life/limb/property. Do it, do it now, do it RIGHT NOW!
Start from the tank and follow all paths/lines to and through the carb itself. Any leak source should be considered a threat and fixed immediately. Do checks with car cold and if nothing turns up, drive briefly to warm and check with system hot.
Now, one little word here. This might be a wild goose chase, BUT take no chances. Starting in '70, Covette was equiped with a sealed gas tank and vapor recovery system (top vent, charcoal storage can, and storage can breather lines to carb to re-use trapped emissions). If you 'top up' the tank to/near max capacity, you'll dump raw gas into your charcoal storage can until you bleed off a sufficient qty of fuel to provide intended vapor expansion space inside the tank. Under these conditions, you WILL smell gas and might even see fresh drips from the bottom overflow on your storage/recovery cannister.
FIX: don't put too much gas in the tank. But, take no chances and inspect the whole system carefully before leaping to the 'obvious' and inexpensive fix. A fiberglass classic car in flames isn't funny....- Top
Comment
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Re: Smell Gas and Determine Engine Size
You've been given good advice by others for spot checks. FORGET the engine and FIND the source of the gas fumes you smell!!!! This is a safety issue that can be threat to life/limb/property. Do it, do it now, do it RIGHT NOW!
Start from the tank and follow all paths/lines to and through the carb itself. Any leak source should be considered a threat and fixed immediately. Do checks with car cold and if nothing turns up, drive briefly to warm and check with system hot.
Now, one little word here. This might be a wild goose chase, BUT take no chances. Starting in '70, Covette was equiped with a sealed gas tank and vapor recovery system (top vent, charcoal storage can, and storage can breather lines to carb to re-use trapped emissions). If you 'top up' the tank to/near max capacity, you'll dump raw gas into your charcoal storage can until you bleed off a sufficient qty of fuel to provide intended vapor expansion space inside the tank. Under these conditions, you WILL smell gas and might even see fresh drips from the bottom overflow on your storage/recovery cannister.
FIX: don't put too much gas in the tank. But, take no chances and inspect the whole system carefully before leaping to the 'obvious' and inexpensive fix. A fiberglass classic car in flames isn't funny....- Top
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