I posted a note about a week ago regarding problems with the installation of the motor on my 64 roadster. The motor would not mate with the bellhousing and was stuck about 1 inch away. The "step on the clutch" trick did not work so in desperation I removed the trans and bellhousing from the car and bolted the bellhousing to the engine while it was on the hoist. We don't have a leveler for the hoist so we put the engine/bellhousing assembly in without the trans. I've had the trans out before so I figured re-installation would not be a problem. Well you know what happened next...The trans is in but now will not mate up to the back end of the bellhousing. It seems the tip of the shaft does not want to mate with the pilot bushing. I can feel the splines engage with the clutch disc but it feels as though it bottoms out at the pilot bushing. I dont remember having this much trouble the last time the trans was out and can't figure out what the hang up is. Is the fit so tight that I really have to RAM the trans in?? The motor was pulled for a rebuild but used the same crank and therefore should be the same pilot bushing as before. Could my engine builder have used a bushing with a smaller I.D. or are they pretty standard?? I'm beginning to think someone doesn't want me around tools anymore. Ant suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Re: C2 transmission
Joe-----
What tool did you use for the clutch disc alignment? I have found that the only thing that works reliably is an old trans input shaft of the same configuration as the transmission. The use of plastic "reproductions" of the trans input shafts or other types of "universal" alignment tools can result in just exactly the problem you're having.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: C2 transmission
I used one of the plastic aftermarket types. What exactly is the "problem" I'm having? Is the trans. shaft hitting somewhere? Everything appears to be perfectly in line. I even spoke to the engine builder and he said that if the plastic alignment tool goes in and out then there's no reason the trans shaft shouldn't.Comment
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Re: C2 transmission
Joe
I suggest you get a clutch allignment tool or better yet an old transmission input shaft to align the clutch disk and size the pilot pushing. Sounds like a problem with the pilot pushing. It may have a burr or lip.
Was the engine allign bored? This can cause the crank/ flywheel and clutch to be slightly off center (a few thousands higher) which can also causes the problem you described. The fix is to measure the crank offset and use offset bellhousing guide pins. I'm not sure if you can use the stock bellhousing. I have only seen the fix used on race engines with after market racing bellhousings.Comment
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Re: C2 transmission
I had the same problem.
Dont Try and pull it in with the BOLTS
Dont try and fource it
The best alignment tool I have also used was a borrowed input shaft But I have used the plastic and it worked.
I learned long ago to test the pilot bearing to the input shaft.Did you inspect the input shaft to the pilot bearing and made sure they fit.Some times when people are driving in the pilot bearing and there not carefull they peen the edge of the bearing over enough not to allow them to mate up.
If you want call me I am on the east coast send me an email and I will give you my cell Sometimes a quick conversation goes along way.
I share in your frustation I have been there myself.As long as there is no pressure on them and I have them aligned and a 1/2 away from mating I step on the clutch pedal and in it goes.
Good luck and be safe email me if you want to speak on the phoneComment
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(Message Deleted by Poster)
Message Deleted by Posterhttps://MichiganNCRS.org
Michigan Chapter
Tom DingmanComment
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Re: C2 transmission
Joe----
The engine builder is correct in THEORY but, unfortunately, NOT in PRACTICE. Whenever I have tried to use one of these plastic tools, I experienced exactly the kind of problem that you're having. When I used an old input shaft, the transmission slipped right in. I don't know, for sure, why it works this way. My guess is that there is just enough imprecision or flex in the plastic tool that it does not produce perfect alignment and the alignment has to be absolutely perfect if the transmission is to slide into place properly.
Another guess that I have about the reason that the plastic tool won't work is this: the pilot bushing or bearing has a "tapered" approach surface to the bore. With the plastic tool, if the alignment is not perfect, the nose of the tool will "bend" just enough to allow the taper to guide it into the bushing bore. For the actual transmission input shaft, though, after it's passed through the cluth disc splines and is rigidly held in position by the engaged clutch, the nose will not move, at all. So, if it strikes the bushing ANYWHERE OFF DEAD CENTER, the bushing taper will do no good to "guide" the shaft pilot into the bore; the pilot will hit the taper and stop right there. This also relates to the reason that you can often get the transmission to seat fully if the clutch is disengaged while the transmission is being slid in----the disengaged clutch allows the pilot shaft to move orbitally and, thus, the bushing taper is able to guide it into the bushing bore.
As Larry suggested, you should first check that the pilot bushing is of the correct size and is undamaged. Once again, if the bushing were "slightly off" or damaged, the plastic tool might be able to conform and enter the bore, anyway. The hardened steel pilot of the shaft, though, will not conform, at all. Also, if you've banged the transmission pilot against the bushing often enough and hard enough in your attempts to get the transmission in place, you might have damaged a bushing that was fine to begin with. Like I say, the transmission input shaft is hardened steel; the bushing usually used is sintered bronze. When they "do battle", the steel piece wins.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C2 transmission
If you get real frustrated I would suggest pulling the motor and trans. and making up the assembly on the hoist/motor stand/ ground, where ever you are working and then assemble the unit already bolted up. I've done it 4 times with my small block 67. I will never do it any other way.Comment
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Re: C2 transmission
Before the days of plastic guide shafts and I did not have a cut off trans shaft, I would eyeball the clutch to assemble of course taking my time to get it as close as possible, I did many times pull it together the last inch or so with the bolts. Natually I wouldn't use a lot of pressure. It seemed to just easily pull together. Sounds scary but I had no problems. Before you pull a stunt like that you'd better be sure everything is correct including pilot bushing. Your call.Comment
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