If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You must be an NCRS member
before you can post: click the Join NCRS link above to join. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Duke, your response was the kind of info I was looking for when I posed the question a week or so ago. Thanks - I now understand the dynamics of the small block rear suspension design much better. No rear bar for me!!
I dunno. I put Daytona springs w/ 1 1/4" bar on the front of my '68 and with the rear bar in place it handled EXCEEDINGLY well. Except of course for the fact that when I tried accelerating out of a turn onto a straight road. the front tires unloaded and went sliding across the road like they had NO IDEA where I wanted to go. The back end sure stayed planted though. The combination of phenomina made for some really strange direction changes. On the upside, I did learn to drive like a schoolgirl for awhile 'til I removed the rear bar. Nice no ticket interlude. Larry
You can really crisp-up the turn-in response and mitigate the tendency
to oversteer at the limit by installing urethane bushings in the front
anti-roll bar links. The rubber pillow block bushings don't need to be changed.
A few dollars in parts and no more than an hour's labor.
A significant improvement in handling can also be had by setting front and rear camber at about negative one degree. This and the hard bushings on the anti-roll bars link will yield a significant handling improvement, especially if you have good tires, and the ride will be unaffected.
C2 base suspension roll stiffness is really quite adaquate. Some roll is good to give the driver feedback, and the greater the roll stiffness the quicker the car reacts, which can make it twitchy, and tough to recover once it starts to go. That's why race cars are set up much softer for wet weather. A dry setup in the rain is almost undriveable.
I was going to put this rebuilt GM FE7 7/16" rear sway bar on my 1967 but after what I have read here I will be putting it on EBay. Interesting thread!
Yes, urethane front anti-roll link bushings are good for C2s, too, and they
can handle "performence" alignment settings of negative one degree camber at
all four corners without suffering excessive inside wear depending on how much straight line driving you do versus spirited cornering.
Because of the C3's lower rear roll center there is less camber change with vertical suspension movement, so you might want to go negative 1.5 degrees rear camber.
We use cookies to deliver our services, and to analyze site activity. We do not share or sell any personal information about our users. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment