Strut Rod Bolt Finish

[Don Z.]

Can anyone help with the finish of the strut rod adjustment cam bolt finish. The '66 teck manual says the bolt is black phosphate. Does this mean the attached large washers with degree marks on and the loose large adjusment washers are also black phosphate? I know the loose nut/lock washer is zinc/cadium. Any help appreciated.
Also has anyone used the blackening system that Eastwood has to offer? Does it work? is it worth it? comments please. Thanks

[Rob A.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

My understanding is that the bolt is black phosphate, the large adjusting washer is cad or zinc and the large nut and lock washer are natural steel. I have used the Eastwood blackening finish. If the parts are cleaned well it works fine. It doesn't result in the original "grainy" texture of phosphate, but looks more like black oxide and works well for small parts.

[Joe L.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

Don------

I have many NOS examples of these parts (REAL NOS from the 60's)[none for sale]. The bolt and the ATTACHED cam are black phosphate. The seperately available, unattached cam is zinc plated.

[Don Z.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

Thanks Rob....Regarding the Eastwood blacking....In looking at their web site..do I understand you just mix the metal black concentrate with distilled water ( 3:1) and dip the parts in and then into the sealer? Is there a time period?
If I get this I rather just get the replacement bottles and not the whole kit. Don't feel like paying an extra $20 + just for some containers and goggles, but the kit comes with instructions. There is where I don't want to mess up.

[Don Z.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

Thanks Joe for clearing the bolt finish up. As Rob said, then the large nut and l/w is natural. I was wondering how the bolt and attached cam could be different finishes since they are attached.
Anyone else have comments on the Eastwood blackening product?
Again thanks to all, this site really helps when answers are needed.

[Rob A.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

I've just used the blackening solution without diluting it. If the part is clean, you'll see it blacken almost immediatly. Rather than using their sealer afterwards, I put WD40 on them, since I know that will help prevent corrosion. I haven't done anything larger than bolts, nuts, etc., maybe their sealer would be advisable for larger items. Buying the replacement bottles is a good idea, you don't need the whole kit. The instructions just tell you to thoroughtly clean the part, rinse with distilled H20 before using the blackening solution, then again, before using the sealing solution.

[Tim E.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

I've been happy with the Eastwood kit and blackened some bolts this weekend. The process goes like this:

1. Clean the part. I've had the best luck with bead blasting. Do not touch the part after cleaning no matter how tempting it is, use tongs.
2. Dip the part in the blackening solution for 20 seconds. I use a variety of "scientifically bent" coat hanger wires.
3. Rinse in clean water for 20 seconds.
4. Without drying, suspend the part in the sealant for 3 minutes.
5. Hang the part to dry overnight.

Tip: Clean and dry your coat hanger wires before using them for the next batch. The blackening solution will not adhere to the part, if there are drops of sealant left over from the previous part.

[Don Z.]

Re: Strut Rod Bolt Finish

Thanks to everyone for the information . I ordered the Eastwood blacking today and I will give it a whirl. just have some small parts for now. Again thanks to all for their contributiuon.