66 lower shock mount removal

[Jim T.]

The lower shock mount bolt will not come out on a friends 66 convertible. Any ideas on how to get this bolt out?

[Chuck G.]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

I'm assuming it's the rear. Soak it with penetrating oil. PB Blaster is a good one. Get a pipe and slip it over the shock mount. Carefully start wiggling. You can buy a "tool" which is essentially a cover for the threaded portion. You can also double nut this area. Start "whacking". See if you can bump it out. The tool and the double nuts HOPEFULLY will prevent you from mushrooming the threads.

No go? Heat. Try a propane torch. Acetylene is better. Heat the spindle struts too. Cherry red is best. Heat, wiggle, tap/pound. Be careful NOT to break an ear off the spindle support. You'll hate yourself if that happens.

It's NOT easy. You might destroy the mount getting it out. Replacements are readily available. This is the MOST miserable job to do...ranks right up there with removing/cutting trailing arm bolts. Good luck. Chuck

[Rob A.]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

If all else fails, like Chuck suggests, use a propane torch to heat up the spindle support, then immediatly put ice water on the shock mount shaft ONLY, and continue with the removal methods suggested. (I used this method to remove trailing arms bolts after all others failed) If you do damage the threads, you can use a die to re-thread them, even if they are badly disstorted.

[Jim T.]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

Thanks for the response Chuck. The rear shock mounts can be so difficult. Have not tried heat yet. It is a no go with a few weeks of soaking and using a 3# hammer to force it out. Heating the spindle struts is a good point. Thanks

[Chuck R.]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

I'll assume that the shock mount setup is similar to my 68 with the shock mount traveling through two ears.

I leave using intense heat as the absolute last resort as heating ANY component to a cherry red will undoubtably lessen a compnents strength.

Try a stead even heat from a torch and just keep moving it around the ears trying not to put any amount of heat on the mount bolt itself. I know it's tuff, but the more expansion you can put on the housing the better.

It will give with repeated tapping on the protected thread end.

Good luck,

Chuck

[george romano]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

The lower shock mount is not usually frozen to the spindle mount. Most often it is stuck to the lower strut rod where it passes through. The strut bushing inner sleeve rusts, and thats where the problem is. If you hit the threaded end of the shock mount with a hammer you will ruin it whether or not there is a nut on it. A shock mount removal tool is recommended to remove it, and even with that tool, it will be tough to get out. Do NOT use a pipe in an attenpt to "twist" the mount out of the spindle support as there is a flat machined into the mount which mates to the spindle support, If you remove this flat from the spindle, the mount will not stay in place once the car is reassembled. If you plan to use heat to loosen this part, heat the strut rod where it meets the shock mount and after the rubber burns away you will be able to see the inner sleeve that is frozen. Continue soaking with PB Blaster, and use a big hammer with the shock mount tool. It'll come out it just takes time.

George

[William V.]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

I have always had god luck using a balljoint fork place it where the shock mounts at the 90 and driving the shock mount forward with a big hamer. I also suggest you do not use heat.

[Rob A.]

RE: USING HEAT

My suggestion regarding heat was to use a small, propane torch, the kind used for soldering copper pipe. It will work without weakening anything you heat up with it. I will not get anything "red hot".

[Tim E.]

Re: 66 lower shock mount removal

Thanks to this discussion board a long time ago, I learned how to make my own removal tool. I took the lower shock mount nut to my local Ace Hardware store and found a grade 8 bolt and new nut matching the thread size. Select the longest nut you can find (longest meaning...with the highest number of threads). I threaded the new nut partially onto the shock mount and then installed the new bolt until it was butted very tightly against the shock mount. The nut effectively acts as a coupling.

Grab your hammer and go to town! Check periodically to ensure the bolt remains tightly butted against the shock mount.