I think I have a rare engine....

[Wayne C.]

Probly got 'em on eBay *NM*

[Norbert R.]

Re: I think I have a rare engine....

Lots of good information here, I have a FO425CT complete engine in storage, and had the same questions plus one. What would be the best recommendations for engine block and head storge? Grease down, plastic wrap? Trash bags? Type of grease?
I would appreciate any comments/ideas.
thanks

[Don22567]

Re: I think I have a rare engine....

I have an original 67 435hp engine block with the VIN still on it and I tied to find the car using WWW.USTRACE.COM which does a nation wide search to see if the VIN is titled/registered in any of the 50 states. they charge $45.00 and their databases go back 15 years.

[Loren L.]

And????? *NM*

[Don22567]

Re: And?????

The car was not found, coupe or convertible. I bought this block for a car I am restoring but can't bring myself to deck it. The block would be so perfect for my car. Standard bore and never decked. the car was built 2 weeks before my car that I am restoring. I'm having a big debate as to whether I should put the block in my car with the wrong serial number, ( but an original stamp ), or get another block and put my numbers in it.

[Loren L.]

If you want help here, I guess you'll have

to publish the serial # to see if anyone has the car or knows of it - what exactly did US Trace do - contact Deputy Fife to do a search of registrations? Most 435's have become trailer queens that are titled but not registered.

[Don22567]

Re: If you want help here, I guess you'll have

USTRACE is a private investigation agency and has authority to records on vehicles and people so I was told by them. Unless this car was burned up or turned into a drag car or something I would believe that it is somewhere out there. This engine has been out of the car now for over 25 years now so I was told. The guy bought a warehouse and this block was left behind along with a bunch of other stuff.

[Rick A.]

Re: And?????

Don,

I faced the same scenario when I decided I was going to restore my 1963 SWC. The original block in my car was replaced with an early 1964 "CE" block, which is date coded November 21, 1963. The reason for the change was not readily apparent until we tore the block down and we found that it was replaced due to a blown rod. Everything else on the block appeared to be original to the car, as all of the date codes, etc. match. I am referring here to the "Camel hump" heads, intake, etc.

I found/bought a 1963 block that is April 11, 1963 dated coded. My car's buld date is July 11, 1963. I and Tony's Corvette have decided that we will NOT deck the stamppad. Everything on the stamppad is correct for my car except that the VIN is about 3000 less than mine.

I have discussed my decision with a number of folks in the NCRS judging chain and as far as I can determine I will take at the most a 38-point deduct for a "non-matching" VIN. I will keep everyone on this Forum posted, as I will be hopefully successful with a TOP FLIGHT at the Carolina Regional in April.

[Don22567]

Re: And?????

Rick, thanks. My situation is the same. The car has a CE block in it casting date of 1972. it was replaced in the 5th year of the warranty but still had the original heads on it. I was told that you can get a top flight with the NCRS with a non original VIN but you can't have it judged at Bloomington.

[Rick A.]

Re: And?????

Don,

Hadn't heard that about Bloomington - will need to check on that when registration for the Bloomington 2004 starts. I had planned on taking my 1963 there, but if what you say is true, then I will forget Bloomington completely.

FYI - spoke with Bloomington folks yesterday and registration documentation, brochures, etc. were sent to the printers yesterday. They are hoping to start registration on or about March 1.

[Don22567]

Re: And?????

Rick, I spoke to Al Grenning about my block and his personal feeling was to NOT deck the block and put it in my car the way it is. He is the one that told me that it would not be accepted in Bloomington. He said it would loose the same number of points in NCRS judging ( about 50 ) as would a restamped restoration engine. I heard that the rules just changed this year in Bloomington that not even restoration motors ( restamp ) will be accepted in judging. I found another block for my car dated C 6 7 that is .030 over and needs to be decked and I'm thinking of using this block instead and putting my numbers in it. Now I'm not sure which way is the better way to go. Alot of people are telling me that with a car of the caliber that I am restoring it should have the numbers stamped in the engine or it will hurt the value. But I kind of like the idea of having an original factory stamped pad in the car showing that it is a real 67 435 motor. The pad has an assembly date of T0310JE and I figured that the original motor from my car would have been assembled on T0323JE.

[mike yager]

Re: And?????

Isn't it amazing that putting an "authentice" engine in a car will hurt the car's value but putting in a counterfeit will not? How silly things have become. Some people are just fooling themselves.

I would leave the engine the way it is but it really depends on what you want to do with the car.

[Rick A.]

Re: And?????

Don,

I also spoke with Al Grenning about the "replacement" block that I am having "built-up" for my 1963. I have a certified letter from him concerning the stamppad authenticity. He suggested that I "DO NOT" deck the stamppad and take the car to NCRS and see what happens.

Again, I have sent an email to Bloomington to verify what you have heard and I will let you know what they tell me.

[Patrick H.]

Re: And?????

To date, I believe that Bloomington's policy was that a non-original block (whether another VIN or a badly done/detectable restoration motor, or really one with any doubt) was automatically eligible for NO award higher than a Silver. So, in theory, you could have an otherwise "perfect" car with Zero deductions, but receive at best a Silver due to the block issue.

I have two friends with Silver awards who can verify this.

If their policy is changing, I'd be interested to see in what direction.

Patrick

[Mike Cobine]

And what does this do?

It looks like it really benefits the high-buck engine stampers, the high-buck dealers/restoration shops, anyone hoarding a stock of unstamped blocks, and those few who were lucky enough to have the original engine left after 30 or more years.

But the average guy who bought one driven hard and put up wet can never hope to do anything, and never hope to have any value in his car, since his car can never achieve the top regardless of the work or care done.

And the price difference between an NOM and an extremely well-crafted fake will explode.

While the goal may be noble in striving to get rid of the fakes, it will only increase the distance between those who have and those who have not. And the fakes will just be harder and harder to detect as they cost more and more to create.

The only way to eliminate the fakes is to make it worthless to produce one. That will happen when the car is valued for the quality of the work done to the whole car, not just a single number stamped 30 years ago or so.