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O.K., after adjusting the cam bolts to get the correct camber on the rear wheels, what should these cam bolts/nuts be torqued at? (55-75 lbs?) And is this the only thing that keeps the strut arm from moving? (changing camber) Is there any tricks when tightening these bolts so they won't change over time? Neg.1/2 degree camber means that the top of the tire should lean out, correct?
Thanks Ken
That's the correct torque for the nuts. Negative camber means the top of the tire is leaning INBOARD of the bottom of the tire, not the other way around. If the top of the tire leans outboard, that's positive camber (you want zero to 1/2-degree negative).
I guess if I was to worry about movement after properly adjusting the camber, I would make a very light mark on both the cam and bolt head to double check that things stayed put.
It will be interesting to see the responses as I will be approaching the same cross roads as you Ken.
My understanding is that once the cam bolt is torqued up, there should be no movement from the cam assembly at all, just normal flexing within the busings.
I'm sure the C-2 folks will chime in and educate us both.
Make sure that the threads on both the nut and bolt are perfect and without burrs or other irregularities. You don't want any of those precious few ft/lbs of torque disappearing into forcing a rusty nut onto a worn bolt instead of going towards clamping everything together nice and tight.
I used a tap and die to clean mine before ass'y and lubricated things well. Worked perfectly
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