What is the best method for removing the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle without pounding the life out of them with a fork tool? I am installing new front coil springs on my 63 to restore correct ride height and at the same time need to remove the knuckle to glass bead and paint. Thanks in advance for your help, Tim
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Re: coil spring replacement
Tim-----
Very simple. Use a 2 jaw, press-type tool rather than a pickle-fork. Old Forge makes a suitable tool which sells for about $75. You can buy one from J.C. Whitney, AI Supply of Peroria, IL, and other vendors.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: coil spring replacement
The method I use may seem primative,but you might want to try it.And if your grease seals are still good you wont ruin them,if you're good with a 2 lb. sledge.Where the stud goes through the steering knuckle,hit the steering knuckle on the side sharply,you may have to hit it a couple times,but it usually pops loose. Be carefull on the back swing so you don't damage your fender.You might put a couple nicks in it,but thats all.Just my 2 cents,and as usual,technically Joe's right.Comment
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Re: Two hammer method
Use two heavy ball peen hammers (or the like), one to strike, and one as a backer held against the side of the knuckle.
The force of the strike shock is better transmitted to the surrounding metal helping to release it's grip on the stud.
One hammer can do the job, but it will involve more repeat strikes and probably some flattening of the knuckle surface where your striking it.
Make sure that the nut remains on the joint stud by a few threads so that when the knuckle drops, it doesn't keep on going to the floor.
ChuckComment
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Re: Two hammer method
Chuck: Would a dead blow hammer be a good choice for this operation as opposed to some type of heavy hammer or mini sledge?Comment
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Two hammer method & tool J-XXXX
No, Len, a dead blow hammer is not effective in this situation. One actually has to deform (just for an instant, not permanently) the spindle to free the taper on the ball stud.
Kent Moore, and maybe others, makes a tool that is like a fine thread bolt with a long, sleeve-like, nut on it. Put this between upper and lower ball stud, and back off the nut to lengthen the tool. It pops the ball stud with the loosened nut right out with no damage to either the seal or the fender. The down side, is this tool, like most Kent Moore tools, is not inexpensive, and of late they are getting hard to find. The Kent Moore number J-XXXX is in your Factory Service Manual (FSM).
I expect one could make one from the right length SAE bolt and nut, a short length of the right diameter pipe, and a welder.TerryComment
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Re: coil spring replacement
Tim,
Go over to your local Home Depot and get a joiner nut for 5/8" allthread. This is a nut that is about 2" long. Then thread a couple of 5/8 bolts in to it of the proper length and you have a nice little balljoint jack! loosen the nuts on both ball joints about a turn or two and jack the joints apart without damaging anything. It is just like the tool sold to do the job.
Regards, John McGrawComment
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Re: Terry's right
You need for that split second to deform the steel surrounding the stud to allow it to release it's grip on the stud.
Dead blow hammers will not provide that sharp striking force required to get that type of release action.
ChuckComment
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