What is the best way to lift my 1967 327/350 engine, with transmission, back into the car. I have a plate that bolts to the intake manifold. Is this a strong enough lifting point? The plate is 3/8 hardened steel, but I'm concerned about the strain on the manifold bolts. Any suggestions??
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott. I have one of those engine lift plates too and I have seen them used by engine builders (mine included) But I didn`t trust it with my orginal 66 aluminum intake. I used the four outer bolt holes (manifold to head) with a Trans-Dapt engine tilter. Use longer bolts and a few washers to keep from marring tke intake. Good Luck. -
Re: Engine lift points
Scott. I have one of those engine lift plates too and I have seen them used by engine builders (mine included) But I didn`t trust it with my orginal 66 aluminum intake. I used the four outer bolt holes (manifold to head) with a Trans-Dapt engine tilter. Use longer bolts and a few washers to keep from marring tke intake. Good Luck.Comment
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott, I wouldn't use the aluminum intake manifold as a lift point. Back off the four corner head-to-block bolts and go to your local hardware store to pick up four grade 8 bolts that are 1" longer than the ones you just took out. Use these grade 8 bolts, one at each corner of the block, to lift your engine. This is the procedure that I have used successfully for 3 engine pulls, all of which had the transmission attached.
Gary, #21316 66 327/350Comment
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott, I wouldn't use the aluminum intake manifold as a lift point. Back off the four corner head-to-block bolts and go to your local hardware store to pick up four grade 8 bolts that are 1" longer than the ones you just took out. Use these grade 8 bolts, one at each corner of the block, to lift your engine. This is the procedure that I have used successfully for 3 engine pulls, all of which had the transmission attached.
Gary, #21316 66 327/350Comment
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Re: Engine lift points
Mornin' Scott, While it looks flemsy, the alum. manifold is plenty strong enough to support the engine and trans. If you are pulling the engine with the body in place, a piece of 3/8" chain run diagonally from end to end of the manifold works well. Position your lift hook so the front of the engine comes up at a large angle, use a floor jack with rollers under the trans. Should come out with no problems, one thing I forgot, be sure to remove the fuel pump. If you are pulling the engine from a rolling frame you don't need a large "angle" on the engine/trans unit for removal. BillComment
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Re: Engine lift points
Mornin' Scott, While it looks flemsy, the alum. manifold is plenty strong enough to support the engine and trans. If you are pulling the engine with the body in place, a piece of 3/8" chain run diagonally from end to end of the manifold works well. Position your lift hook so the front of the engine comes up at a large angle, use a floor jack with rollers under the trans. Should come out with no problems, one thing I forgot, be sure to remove the fuel pump. If you are pulling the engine from a rolling frame you don't need a large "angle" on the engine/trans unit for removal. BillComment
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott - I agree with Pete - don't trust four little 5/16" studs in aluminum to carry all that weight. I use the same setup Pete does - a Trans-Dapt (now "T-D") engine tilter with the four chains bolted to 2" Grade 8 bolts with hardened washers in each of the end manifold-to-head bolt holes. This rig makes it a simple one-man job to either pull or re-install the engine and tranny as a unit.Comment
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott - I agree with Pete - don't trust four little 5/16" studs in aluminum to carry all that weight. I use the same setup Pete does - a Trans-Dapt (now "T-D") engine tilter with the four chains bolted to 2" Grade 8 bolts with hardened washers in each of the end manifold-to-head bolt holes. This rig makes it a simple one-man job to either pull or re-install the engine and tranny as a unit.Comment
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott----
While I generally agree with the other responders' advice and the adviseability of using lifting devices other than the carburetor flange-mounted lifting bracket, these brackets can be safely used IF you are sure to use Grade 8 bolts to attach it to the flange and properly torque the bolts. The combined tensile strength of 4 grade 8 5/16" bolts properly torqued FAR, FAR exceeds the weight of the engine.
However, I would look for a lifting bracket(plate) which meets ANSI or SAE standards. Many of these brackets, even inexpensive "foreign" made versions, actually do meet these standards and are usually so-specified.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Engine lift points
Scott----
While I generally agree with the other responders' advice and the adviseability of using lifting devices other than the carburetor flange-mounted lifting bracket, these brackets can be safely used IF you are sure to use Grade 8 bolts to attach it to the flange and properly torque the bolts. The combined tensile strength of 4 grade 8 5/16" bolts properly torqued FAR, FAR exceeds the weight of the engine.
However, I would look for a lifting bracket(plate) which meets ANSI or SAE standards. Many of these brackets, even inexpensive "foreign" made versions, actually do meet these standards and are usually so-specified.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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