Help with Bubba Blackout

[Rob M.]

I'm working on the engine compartment and would like some advice on how to clean up some original parts that BUBBA hit with blackout - like the horn relay and the ballast resistor. Any suggestions would be appreciated from those of you who Bubba has also visited.

Thanks in advance,
Rob

[Mike M.]

Re: Help with Bubba Blackout

lacquer thinner will usually melt bubba and his residue. mike

[Jack H.]

The ballast resistor will be a challenge....

When you use lacquer thinner to remove the paint, expect residuals to nestle into the pours of the ballast ceramic. Once you get it as clean as you can, go do a 2-step cleanup refinement.

Step 1= Use a toothbrush and lacquer thinner to scrub the surface of the ballast and get as much out of the ceramic pours as possible.

Step 2= Take a clean toothbrush and denture cleaner to brighten/polish the ceramic surface.

[Chuck S.]

Denture Cleaner?!!...

Jack, you have old people living at your place, or is that denture cleaner for your personal use?

[Rob M.]

Re: The ballast resistor will be a challenge....

Jack--

Thanks for the tip! Who would'a thunk? I'm just glad it's for the car and not for me.

Rob

[Rob M.]

Follow up Question

Can the ballast resistor be soaked in a jar of thinner without causing damage?

[Jack H.]

Re: Denture Cleaner?!!...

I currently buy it ONLY for the purpose of making original ballast ceramics clean up. But, hang in there for a few years and I may well find a personal hygine use for the stuff....

BTW, do NOT let the ballast resistor's band sit in the denture cleaner unless you want to go replate it!

[Jack H.]

Re: Follow up Question

Soaking in paint thinner is NOT a problem! But, per my above add-on, do NOT immerse the ballast in denture cleaner as you'll etch the plating on the mounting band.

Last hint, fully remove the terminal screws and lead washers when you've cleaned up the external surfaces of the ballast. You'll see the screws thread into inserts installed in the ceramic. Early ballasts have ONLY ONE anti-swivel crimp tab on the insert (straight axle car era). The crimp tab folds into a 'trough' or 'notch' that runs from the center of the ballast ceramic and stops at the mounting post well (where the insert is mounted).

Later style ballasts (late straight axle and mid year) have an 'improved' ceramic design. The trough or notch extends from the center of the ceramic all the way to the outer ends of the ceramic and inserts with TWO anti-swivel crimp tabs are used (if one tab fractures, there's a backup to prevent the insert from spinning when you tighten the terminal screws). ALL of the service replacement ballasts AND the current 'correct' reproduction ballast resistors made under GM license by Shafer's Classic Reproductions use the later style ceramic with full length trenches.

Well, once the mounting screws are removed, you'll free up some 'slop' between the insert and the contact rings for the nichrome resistance winding wire on the bottom side of the ballast. This is a GREAT time to take a small wire brush and clean (as best you can) the contact surface between the contact ring and the insert. Then, spread a touch of silicone grease here to thwart oxidation/rust and re-assemble the contact screws and washers into the inserts.

Any marginal contact between the top side mounting screws + washers and the bottom side insert & resistance wire contact ring can result in ignition 'funnies' which are decidely undesirable....

[Rob M.]

Re: Follow up Question

Jack--

Thanks for the detailed instructions. That's just what I need. I noticed that "correct" reproductions aren't very expensive, is it worth spending the time cleaning the original, or just buy a repro?

Again, thanks for the detailed post.

Rob

[Jack H.]

Re: Follow up Question

Current reproduction ballast resistors are WONDERFUL parts for the right application.... That application is either a driver car or one you're willing to accept minor point deductions on during Flight Judging based on Configuration differences vs. factory original ballast(s).

The configuration of the ceramic is correct for 'late' cars (generally speaking very late straight axle cars and mid year + early Shark), but reproduction ballasts have incorrect ceramic geometry for early cars. Next, I see the mounting band as based on GM service replacement assy tooling and you can expect point loss there too. Last, the 3-4 units I looked at (Shafer's Classic Reproductions) were oddly constructed....

While they had the late style ceramic with full length 'notch/trench' in the top surface, they used early style inserts with a single anti-swivel crimp tab. So, in my personal opinion, while this is a licensed reproduction part it doesn't appear the licensee went to much effort to read & understand the drawing package he got from GM to truly understand just what was required to make fully correct reproduction(s)....

Seems to me he just grabbed whatever original tooling was still available and churned out parts that 'kinda/sorta' looked right and slapped the GM Licensed Reproduction banner on his packaging! Hey, that seems to happen FREQUENTLY in this sport/hobby. I don't think there are any 'teeth' in the GM licensing program to police the accuracy of a licensee's work product--just a transfer of documentation at arm's length and rather complete independence between the parties...too bad!