1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

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  • Pat Bush

    #1

    1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

    Hello all --

    I have a bit of a problem. I am replacing the radiator on my 1971 SB/AC/Auto convertible due to a crack in one of the end tanks. I have been advised that this is a stress crack and cannot really be repaired satisfactorly. So, I opted for a new replacement radiator. The radiator fits perfectly in the car but the shroud is interfering directly against the lower outlet pipe -- and not just a little bit. There is no way save for cutting to make this fit..... and I really don't want to do that! I double checked the radiator application and it is the "correct" part from the vendor. So now, I say, could it be the wrong "correct" shroud attached to an already once-replaced incorrect radiator???? Or possibly a defective radiator? I am 99% sure the radiator taken out is not the original (cannot find any Harrison demarcations on it).

    Here is the number off the shroud: 3956109. The shroud appears to be natural fiberglass with no extension. This fit well with the old radiator. I am trying to sort out whether it's the radiator or the shroud.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks -

    Pat
  • Jim T.
    Expired
    • March 1, 1993
    • 5351

    #2
    Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

    Pat your are not having any trouble with installing the shroud, it is just that the shroud does not fit like it did with the removed damaged radiator because of the new radiators lower outlet pipe configuration is different. What procudure did you use to remove the damaged radiator? Did you remove the upper control arm or remove the hood and unbolt the radiator support to move it forward to remove the radiator?

    Comment

    • Pat Bush

      #3
      Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

      Hi Jim -

      I went about the removal in the "usual" way. Scribed and removed the hood, removed the URH, fan, clutch, LRH, and water pump. Removed the shroud without any suspension work from the top. Removed the upper radiator fastening supports and AT trans lines, and then pulled the radiator. It wasn't a big deal to get the shroud or radiator out (no more than the usual).

      Are you saying I have more adjustment or a different procedure I should have followed? I don't claim to be an expert -- so if there is something else I should be doing, please let me know! I would love to just figure out what my issue is here!

      Thanks --

      Pat

      Comment

      • Jim T.
        Expired
        • March 1, 1993
        • 5351

        #4
        Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

        Everyone has their perferances. My tried and true perferance to remove the radiator in my 70 air conditioned and turbo 400 automatic is to remove the fan and fan clutch, not the water pump. Placing my floor jack under the shock mounting area of the lower control arm and with lifting the wheel high enough, I remove the right front wheel. Then I unbolt the upper control arm, remove the alignment shims, knock the upper control arm bolt closest to the engine out. and pull the upper control arm into the wheel-well. Now I remove the fan shroud and then the radiator. The hood remains in place. I have done this procedure a few times since 1970. I don't know what the problem is with your new radiator, but this is a proven method for me with the big shroud that is on my 70.

        Comment

        • Joe L.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • February 1, 1988
          • 42936

          #5
          Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

          Pat-----

          The GM #3956109 IS the correct shroud for your application, so there's no possibility of having an incorrect shroud. The difficulty that you're having may just be one of installation as Jim discussed. However, it's very possible that the replacement radiator is configured differently than the previous radiator even though you believe that the previous radiator was not original to the car, either. As time goes on and various "iterations" of replacement parts supercede previous versions, things may get more-and-more "generic". As the market for parts dwindles with passing years, the manufacturers try to "consolidate" as much of the assembly as possible with other applications. Unfortunately, this often results in "compromises" that affect fit or function for some of the applications serviced. The rationale is that by this stage in the "parts support life" of cars this old, owners will just be glad that they can get a part they need at a price that's "justifiable" with the value of a 30+ year old car. The vast majority of 30+ year old cars on the road are not classics and there really aren't that many 30+ year old cars on the road, at all.
          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

          Comment

          • Dick W.
            Former NCRS Director Region IV
            • July 1, 1985
            • 10485

            #6
            Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

            Pat, if the old radiator had the correctly configured lower neck, take both radiators to a competent radiator shop and have them switch the necks. It is all of a 20-30 minute job (max).
            Dick Whittington

            Comment

            • Jeffrey S.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 1, 1988
              • 1826

              #7
              Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

              In your post you said you removed one of the control arm studs. How did you do this? What tool did you use to protect the threads? Did you hammer it out or press it out somehow? When you replace the stud did the bolt snug up properly without the stud spinning? I need to remove one of these studs on my '69 small block a/c automatic this spring. Any help would be appreciated.
              Jeff

              Comment

              • Chuck S.
                Expired
                • April 1, 1992
                • 4668

                #8
                Re: 1971 Radiator Shroud Issue

                Jeff, there is a short splined shank area right under the stud head. A couple of good solid blows should drive the studs out. When you re-install the studs, try to match the splines up with spline-cut notches in the hole to avoid cutting up your frame holes unnecessarlily. You should be able to "feel" the right position to engage the notches.

                Comment

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