Chassis assembly time for my 67. I would like tips on what bolts need to be tightened now what needs to be tightened when the body is put back on. Any suggestions if I should start up front or with the trailing arm assemblies. Is there a set order of assembly? Any tricks to protect painted surfaces from scratches during assembly would also be helpful. Thanks as always. I going to need a billboard to list all the names that have helped with the car when it is finished. NCRS thank you for this sight.
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Keith Burmeister -
Where to start?
Doesn't make much difference where you start...but, start from the front and work your way back. I always assembled everything with snug tightness, and made sure every piece fit before final torque.
How to protect the frame from nicks and dings? You work very carefully, have a helping hand with the heavier pieces, two hands to hold the piece and another set of hands to start the bolts. Place some rags on the jack stands so you won't scratch the frame. Again, work carefully and methodically. -
Where to start?
Doesn't make much difference where you start...but, start from the front and work your way back. I always assembled everything with snug tightness, and made sure every piece fit before final torque.
How to protect the frame from nicks and dings? You work very carefully, have a helping hand with the heavier pieces, two hands to hold the piece and another set of hands to start the bolts. Place some rags on the jack stands so you won't scratch the frame. Again, work carefully and methodically.Comment
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Re: Chassis Assembly Time-----Help!
I'm just starting to put mine back together again, and its amazing how many little snags you can run into, especially when you are worried about bolt head markings, and colors. I started with the differential, but I'm working at both ends getting things done when I can. Right now, I'm stalled getting fasteners and ball joints riveted. So, my advice is just to start whereever you want or can, and work around all these othere obstacles. warning: support the very back of the chassis, so it doesnt tip backwards on you. The frames are a bit back-heavy wout the engine mounted.
BrandonComment
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Re: Chassis Assembly Time-----Help!
I'm just starting to put mine back together again, and its amazing how many little snags you can run into, especially when you are worried about bolt head markings, and colors. I started with the differential, but I'm working at both ends getting things done when I can. Right now, I'm stalled getting fasteners and ball joints riveted. So, my advice is just to start whereever you want or can, and work around all these othere obstacles. warning: support the very back of the chassis, so it doesnt tip backwards on you. The frames are a bit back-heavy wout the engine mounted.
BrandonComment
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Re: Where to start?
Don't tighten any of the suspension and control arm bushing bolts until the car has its full weight on the wheels, on the ground. If you torque them up with the suspension hanging at full rebound, several things will happen - a) The car will sit too high initially, as the bushings will be wound up and will be carrying part of the car's weight instead of the springs carrying it all, b) The car will ride hard as the wound-up bushings will be partially functioning as springs, and c) The bushings will fail prematurely as a result of being wound-up and under constant torsional stress, even with the car stationary. This isn't easy, but that's the way new cars are built - all of these bushing attachments are torqued with the wheel hubs fixtured at design curb height so there is no torsional stress on the bushings except when the suspension is actually moving up and down.Comment
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Re: Where to start?
Don't tighten any of the suspension and control arm bushing bolts until the car has its full weight on the wheels, on the ground. If you torque them up with the suspension hanging at full rebound, several things will happen - a) The car will sit too high initially, as the bushings will be wound up and will be carrying part of the car's weight instead of the springs carrying it all, b) The car will ride hard as the wound-up bushings will be partially functioning as springs, and c) The bushings will fail prematurely as a result of being wound-up and under constant torsional stress, even with the car stationary. This isn't easy, but that's the way new cars are built - all of these bushing attachments are torqued with the wheel hubs fixtured at design curb height so there is no torsional stress on the bushings except when the suspension is actually moving up and down.Comment
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