C-3 beast pinion nut

[Chuck R.]

I am at the point of taking my die grinder and cold chisel to the pinion nut on my 68.

Right now, the diff. is setting on the bench with the drive shaft yoke cradled and very lightly pulled up (don't want to squash the yoke) to keep it from spinning.

So far, lots of pen oil and breaker bar action with no results.

I'm actually thinking of putting a fifty pound weight on the end of the breaker bar and walking away to let nature do it's job.

Any words of wisdom to help me free the nut from hell up?

Thanks in advance,

Chuck

[Jim T.]

Re: C-3 beast pinion nut

Find someplace locally like a big truck dealership, and take your differential in and let them put a big impact wrench to work on it.
Alternators have posed a problem with me before and I take them to a local auto repair shop that does my wheel balancing/alignments and they break it the nut loose with no problem with a impact wrench.

[Chuck R.]

Re: C-3 beast pinion nut

Well Duh!!!

Great idea Jim, I work for a township that has a very well equiped and highly trained Highway Department. Why didn't I think of that?

I'll see if I can spend some quality (non town time) time with one of the Highway Dudes to pop it free.

If only it were still mounted in the car.

Thanks Jim,

Chuck

[Bob Unkel]

Re: C-3 beast pinion nut

Unless you intend to replace the crush collar, suggest you mark the location of the nut so you can draw it all back up to the proper bearing pre-load. If you don't mark it getting the proper pre-load without replacing the crush collar is a challenge.

[Chuck R.]

Re: C-3 beast pinion nut resolved

Thanks for the feed back folks, the beast has been put back in it's cage.

Bob, I lightly ***** punched the shaft end, nut and yoke so that the pre load and replacement orientation would not be compromised prior to disasembly.

Amazing what a three foot length of pipe on the end of the breaker bar can accomplish. Actually, it didn't take that much more leverage for it to release it's grip.

A word to the wise though to those who are not so familiar with fulcroms.

A huge amount of torque can be placed on tools that were not designed for crerative pipe extension handles and the like, especially to tools like ratchets.

If your not comfortable in knowing your tools limits, then a good rule of thumb is just don't do it to begin with.

Keep in mind the old mental rule of "What will happen it slips or breaks" I've avoided alot of busted knuckles and cuts from this philosophy.

Additional note:

I had to literally heat and drive one of the snubber bracket bolts out of the diff. housing pretty much destroying the bolt. A little bit of antiseeze on these bolt shoulders would not be a bad thing on re-assembly.

Thanks again for the feed back and I hope it's the last rusty rogue I have to contend with.

Chuck

[Craig S.]

Re: C-3 beast pinion nut

You need an IR-244 pneumatic impact wrench, they come right off. However, as Terry has mentioned, going together is best to use a companion flange wrench and torque wrench to prevent brinelling the new roller bearings...Craig