Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

[Tom B.]

This problem / adjustment could be 20 things so instead of just asking blindly "what is it?", maybe with some help I can get it narrowed down first.

I've had the car out the past couple weekends (L89, TI) and after an hour or so of driving the car will cut out when releasing the clutch from a stop. No backfire, no noise back through the carb, just the old "flub-blub" out the exhaust a few times. I haven't killed it, but can only recover by pushing in the clutch and "feathering-it-out" with the pedal. With a little more RPM and release, I'm on my way again. Other than that it runs like a charm.

Obviously my first guess is the primary carb, but could it have something to do with the TI/distributor/wires/plugs? What should I look for / adjust? Try not to laugh too hard, some of this is Rocket Science to me. All suggestions and answers appreciated. Thanks in advance. Tom #24014

[Tom B.]

Hesitation: Coil? or ???

Seems I also remember having to track down a bad coil problem once on my former 327/350. What do coils do when they start going bad? Thanks again. Tom #24014

[Tom B.]

Hesitation: Coil? or ???

Seems I also remember having to track down a bad coil problem once on my former 327/350. What do coils do when they start going bad? Thanks again. Tom #24014

[George Daina]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

Tom, Could be a number of things: fouled plug(s). My plugs would last 5000 miles, if I was lucky, and I have the same setup as you. The coil could be a source, it it doesn't provide a hot spark to the plugs, another could be arcing wires. At night, pop the hood while the car is running and check for any wires arcing against the exhaust manifold, or against any other metal surface. Pull the plugs, and put a new set it, you may have a dead plug.

I would try the plugs first, then the wires, if the T.I. modules was bad, you would not be able to start the car, and the coil can be checked at NAPA or any outomotive store. If the carbs are the problem, the primary's power valve could be blown, but if that were the care, you'd be running extremely rich.

[George Daina]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

Tom, Could be a number of things: fouled plug(s). My plugs would last 5000 miles, if I was lucky, and I have the same setup as you. The coil could be a source, it it doesn't provide a hot spark to the plugs, another could be arcing wires. At night, pop the hood while the car is running and check for any wires arcing against the exhaust manifold, or against any other metal surface. Pull the plugs, and put a new set it, you may have a dead plug.

I would try the plugs first, then the wires, if the T.I. modules was bad, you would not be able to start the car, and the coil can be checked at NAPA or any outomotive store. If the carbs are the problem, the primary's power valve could be blown, but if that were the care, you'd be running extremely rich.

[Tom B.]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

Hi George. I'm printing your list now. I was a little concerned there would be several alternatives. I'll be starting on it in my spare time this week. If you think of anything else I'd be glad to know. Big thanks. Tom #24014

PS: Hope you found that unusual rear differential. Also, I got an extra 5 to 10 degrees out of that tip of removing my front license plate. Big thanks there too. TB

[Tom B.]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

Hi George. I'm printing your list now. I was a little concerned there would be several alternatives. I'll be starting on it in my spare time this week. If you think of anything else I'd be glad to know. Big thanks. Tom #24014

PS: Hope you found that unusual rear differential. Also, I got an extra 5 to 10 degrees out of that tip of removing my front license plate. Big thanks there too. TB

[John M.]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

Tom, I had exactly the same problem with my '69 L71. After tearing down the center carb and finding it ok I posted my problem. Bill Baird suggested checking the TI ground as did M&H Electrics. The TI harness was grounded to the radiator support with a self tapping cruddy metric (?) hex head self tapping bolt. I got rid of that, cleaned the area, and put a star washer between the support, the ring terminal and a 1/4 -20 bolt. The car has been perfect ever since.

Thanks to Bill and everyone for their help.

[John M.]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

Tom, I had exactly the same problem with my '69 L71. After tearing down the center carb and finding it ok I posted my problem. Bill Baird suggested checking the TI ground as did M&H Electrics. The TI harness was grounded to the radiator support with a self tapping cruddy metric (?) hex head self tapping bolt. I got rid of that, cleaned the area, and put a star washer between the support, the ring terminal and a 1/4 -20 bolt. The car has been perfect ever since.

Thanks to Bill and everyone for their help.

[Bill Baird]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

I was going to suggest that Tom check the TI ground or maybe the coil, but you beat me to it. I'm glad to hear that your car is running well.

Bill Baird

[Bill Baird]

Re: Hesitation: Carb? TI? or ???

I was going to suggest that Tom check the TI ground or maybe the coil, but you beat me to it. I'm glad to hear that your car is running well.

Bill Baird

[George Daina]

Good point regarding the ground.....

forgot about that. The Corvette is notorious for having GOOD ground, else you will have to deal with gremlins.

The S-10 differential? Could not find a 3:40, Posi, 2 X 4, 91 4 door w/ABS, anywhere. I had leads in Ca., Denver, Baltimore, etc., nada, lots of 4 x 4's but no 2 x 4's. So I purchased a unit for $150.00 from a 86 S-10 pickup w/correct gear ratio. I thought I could drill out the axle flange to accept my ABS backing plates, but my splines were to large for the spiders, so....., I used the junker diff unit as a whole, it works, but no rear ABS and no Posi.

The Blazer has officialy entered the beater stage.

[George Daina]

Good point regarding the ground.....

forgot about that. The Corvette is notorious for having GOOD ground, else you will have to deal with gremlins.

The S-10 differential? Could not find a 3:40, Posi, 2 X 4, 91 4 door w/ABS, anywhere. I had leads in Ca., Denver, Baltimore, etc., nada, lots of 4 x 4's but no 2 x 4's. So I purchased a unit for $150.00 from a 86 S-10 pickup w/correct gear ratio. I thought I could drill out the axle flange to accept my ABS backing plates, but my splines were to large for the spiders, so....., I used the junker diff unit as a whole, it works, but no rear ABS and no Posi.

The Blazer has officialy entered the beater stage.

[Tom B.]

Thanks JM, BB, GD

Thanks guys, I'll keep adding to the list. Probably have questions as I go, look for more later / week. Also, George, beaters aren't so bad, especially if you can still trailer. Can't remember if you said you got AC back on track, anyhow beaters always good to have around. Thanks again. Tom #24014

[Tom B.]

Thanks JM, BB, GD

Thanks guys, I'll keep adding to the list. Probably have questions as I go, look for more later / week. Also, George, beaters aren't so bad, especially if you can still trailer. Can't remember if you said you got AC back on track, anyhow beaters always good to have around. Thanks again. Tom #24014